710LikesTeam Associated RC10B64 Thread
08-01-2017, 03:20 PM - Wikipost
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03-10-2017, 09:20 PM
#1516
I guess I'm a little underwhelmed too. The car is so f'n twitchy its hard to drive. Its a good car though. I was able to turn a couple hot laps but I couldn't run a lot of them. It lands great. It lacks the stability of the 22-4 2.0 for sure. Its very edgy and needs to be pushed very hard. I toed the front wheels in 1 degree and that helped a lot. I'm going to run it for a couple of weeks and give it a proper chance. My first [honest] impression is that I like my TLR wheelers better. I'm not aggressive enough to get the B64D to work right but I'm going to stick it out a while longer.
03-10-2017, 10:19 PM
#1517
Tech Regular
The WTF Windy fan should cover everything you need it to do.
03-10-2017, 10:21 PM
#1518
Tech Regular
I guess I'm a little underwhelmed too. The car is so f'n twitchy its hard to drive. Its a good car though. I was able to turn a couple hot laps but I couldn't run a lot of them. It lands great. It lacks the stability of the 22-4 2.0 for sure. Its very edgy and needs to be pushed very hard. I toed the front wheels in 1 degree and that helped a lot. I'm going to run it for a couple of weeks and give it a proper chance. My first [honest] impression is that I like my TLR wheelers better. I'm not aggressive enough to get the B64D to work right but I'm going to stick it out a while longer.
Mine was really good on a flooded astro track last week, before the water found the speedo
Last edited by John Myall; 03-11-2017 at 12:14 AM.
03-10-2017, 11:15 PM
#1519
Tech Apprentice
Deleted - I get why turning the center diff should be like stirring a pot of hardening 30 minute epoxy now 
Last edited by intercede007; 03-10-2017 at 11:25 PM.
03-11-2017, 12:34 AM
#1520
top plate not aligned
Hi mates !
just starting my build; and the top plate (92038) is not perfectly aligned with the steering posts (about 1-2 mm )
i had to force on the chassis to assemble those 2 parts
is it normal ?
i also have the right bellcrank slightly rubs the right siderail... on max angle
note that the left side doesn't rubs.
just starting my build; and the top plate (92038) is not perfectly aligned with the steering posts (about 1-2 mm )
i had to force on the chassis to assemble those 2 parts
is it normal ?
i also have the right bellcrank slightly rubs the right siderail... on max angle
note that the left side doesn't rubs.
03-11-2017, 04:33 AM
#1521
Got to spend some more time with the buggy last night, was nice as I raced through the build. Some observations.
- I think people are cracking the transmission cases for a couple reasons. A) pre-thread the case with an extra screw and black grease. Run the screw into each hole a couple times. This loosens up the threads / hole and gets the excess plastic out of the hole. And B) some of the screws are too long (for example those for the wing mount and rear shock tower. If you wind those 14mm screws in tight they will push out or crack the opposite side.
- the front sway bars will fit the rear, not sure if they will work but there seems to be clearance. The angle of the bend might not be optimal for the rear though as the end links are skewed.
- the center diff needs to be shimmed too, it's loose and could hit the top cover. Think I used 4 shims to push the assembly forward.
- my rear diff was binding in one spot, shimming and wrestling with it got me nowhere. AE sent me a new gearbox case and it fixed the issue.
That's all I got!
- I think people are cracking the transmission cases for a couple reasons. A) pre-thread the case with an extra screw and black grease. Run the screw into each hole a couple times. This loosens up the threads / hole and gets the excess plastic out of the hole. And B) some of the screws are too long (for example those for the wing mount and rear shock tower. If you wind those 14mm screws in tight they will push out or crack the opposite side.
- the front sway bars will fit the rear, not sure if they will work but there seems to be clearance. The angle of the bend might not be optimal for the rear though as the end links are skewed.
- the center diff needs to be shimmed too, it's loose and could hit the top cover. Think I used 4 shims to push the assembly forward.
- my rear diff was binding in one spot, shimming and wrestling with it got me nowhere. AE sent me a new gearbox case and it fixed the issue.
That's all I got!
Last edited by Tobey457; 03-11-2017 at 09:30 AM.
03-11-2017, 09:30 AM
#1522
Amain sells the fans for $12.99, item #MCL4016.
03-11-2017, 11:19 AM
#1523
Tech Adept
There is no way that the updated turnbuckle measurements are correct. I had atleast 5* or more of toe in at the front and nearly 10* of camber. I ended up going 2mm longer on the camber and 2mm~ shorter on the steering turnbuckles to get it right.
At the default settings when turning to full lock at either side it would cause the opposite arm to rise up, even before putting on the swaybars and shocks.
Other than that my build went together pretty well. I haven't had it out at the track yet but here in the yard and on the street it has a ton of steering. My only complaint is how little space there is under the body shell, it makes running electronics a PITA.
At the default settings when turning to full lock at either side it would cause the opposite arm to rise up, even before putting on the swaybars and shocks.
Other than that my build went together pretty well. I haven't had it out at the track yet but here in the yard and on the street it has a ton of steering. My only complaint is how little space there is under the body shell, it makes running electronics a PITA.
03-11-2017, 01:13 PM
#1524
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
There is no way that the updated turnbuckle measurements are correct. I had atleast 5* or more of toe in at the front and nearly 10* of camber. I ended up going 2mm longer on the camber and 2mm~ shorter on the steering turnbuckles to get it right.
At the default settings when turning to full lock at either side it would cause the opposite arm to rise up, even before putting on the swaybars and shocks.
Other than that my build went together pretty well. I haven't had it out at the track yet but here in the yard and on the street it has a ton of steering. My only complaint is how little space there is under the body shell, it makes running electronics a PITA.
At the default settings when turning to full lock at either side it would cause the opposite arm to rise up, even before putting on the swaybars and shocks.
Other than that my build went together pretty well. I haven't had it out at the track yet but here in the yard and on the street it has a ton of steering. My only complaint is how little space there is under the body shell, it makes running electronics a PITA.
03-11-2017, 04:55 PM
#1525
Tech Rookie
First day of running at the track. Running the Alex kosciuszek set up sheet.
Way too twitchy. Feels like the car is floating back and forth and I can't get it to settle down. When I turn there is that moment of oversteering then the correction and then counter correction. Fought that all day. Felt like oversteer?
What should I be looking to do to help correct this? 37.5wt yellow front shocks, 5k front diff. 30wt white rear shocks 3k rear diff. Car was wanting to go left/right swaying back and forth. 20mm ride height.
Way too twitchy. Feels like the car is floating back and forth and I can't get it to settle down. When I turn there is that moment of oversteering then the correction and then counter correction. Fought that all day. Felt like oversteer?
What should I be looking to do to help correct this? 37.5wt yellow front shocks, 5k front diff. 30wt white rear shocks 3k rear diff. Car was wanting to go left/right swaying back and forth. 20mm ride height.
03-11-2017, 05:06 PM
#1526
Hope these issues are sorted out by the time the "carpet" version is released.. might pick one up then..
03-11-2017, 05:23 PM
#1527
First day of running at the track. Running the Alex kosciuszek set up sheet.
Way too twitchy. Feels like the car is floating back and forth and I can't get it to settle down. When I turn there is that moment of oversteering then the correction and then counter correction. Fought that all day. Felt like oversteer?
What should I be looking to do to help correct this? 37.5wt yellow front shocks, 5k front diff. 30wt white rear shocks 3k rear diff. Car was wanting to go left/right swaying back and forth. 20mm ride height.
Way too twitchy. Feels like the car is floating back and forth and I can't get it to settle down. When I turn there is that moment of oversteering then the correction and then counter correction. Fought that all day. Felt like oversteer?
What should I be looking to do to help correct this? 37.5wt yellow front shocks, 5k front diff. 30wt white rear shocks 3k rear diff. Car was wanting to go left/right swaying back and forth. 20mm ride height.
03-11-2017, 05:33 PM
#1528
10k-200k-10k have been good on Coles car so far. We haven't run with the 10 degree castor blocks much, but with the 13 degree his car has been money. Not running the gearbox shim either.
03-11-2017, 05:41 PM
#1529
MIP is running some prototype puck drive parts for the 13.5 class B64 at the desert classic. Front, rear, and center shafts. Supposedly a 20% decrease in rotating mass.
03-11-2017, 05:44 PM
#1530
Tech Apprentice
Following this setup sheet as this is my home track https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...ans_Rumble.pdf
I'm on page 10, Steering Block Build, step one. Is the axle height setting in the setup sheet the caster block bushings? Instructions want the thick bushing to the bottom, but it seems like my setup sheet would put the thin bushing on the bottom. Is that how the axle height setting is made?
I'm on page 10, Steering Block Build, step one. Is the axle height setting in the setup sheet the caster block bushings? Instructions want the thick bushing to the bottom, but it seems like my setup sheet would put the thin bushing on the bottom. Is that how the axle height setting is made?