Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated RC10B64 Thread >

Team Associated RC10B64 Thread

Like Tree673Likes

Team Associated RC10B64 Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 08-01-2017, 03:20 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10B64 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B64 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Petit RC Page

B64D Manual

Aftermarket Upgrades

Welcome to the B64 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Petit RC Page

B64D Manual

Aftermarket Upgrades

Aftermarket parts

Helpful Tips and Videos

How to properly Shim the B64 Diffs

B64 Club Racer video

Helpful Tips and Videos

How to properly Shim the B64 Diffs

B64 Club Racer video

Print Wikipost

Reply

Old 03-10-2017, 09:20 PM
  #1516  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (508)
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Antelope Valley, CA
Posts: 4,980
Trader Rating: 508 (100%+)
Default

I guess I'm a little underwhelmed too. The car is so f'n twitchy its hard to drive. Its a good car though. I was able to turn a couple hot laps but I couldn't run a lot of them. It lands great. It lacks the stability of the 22-4 2.0 for sure. Its very edgy and needs to be pushed very hard. I toed the front wheels in 1 degree and that helped a lot. I'm going to run it for a couple of weeks and give it a proper chance. My first [honest] impression is that I like my TLR wheelers better. I'm not aggressive enough to get the B64D to work right but I'm going to stick it out a while longer.
QDRHRSE is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2017, 10:19 PM
  #1517  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: England
Posts: 376
Default

Originally Posted by Cain View Post
in general, what do you guys feel is one of the better fans to use for cooling a 1/10 4wd buggy motor (high cooling speed, durability). I have seen a few at the track, some just seem to make a bit more noise than others.

The WTF Windy fan should cover everything you need it to do.
John Myall is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2017, 10:21 PM
  #1518  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: England
Posts: 376
Default

Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I guess I'm a little underwhelmed too. The car is so f'n twitchy its hard to drive. Its a good car though. I was able to turn a couple hot laps but I couldn't run a lot of them. It lands great. It lacks the stability of the 22-4 2.0 for sure. Its very edgy and needs to be pushed very hard. I toed the front wheels in 1 degree and that helped a lot. I'm going to run it for a couple of weeks and give it a proper chance. My first [honest] impression is that I like my TLR wheelers better. I'm not aggressive enough to get the B64D to work right but I'm going to stick it out a while longer.
Did you run it box stock setup? I was surprised that the front rollbar was so much thinner than the rear, but change that and springs & it should settle down nicely.

Mine was really good on a flooded astro track last week, before the water found the speedo

Last edited by John Myall; 03-11-2017 at 12:14 AM.
John Myall is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2017, 11:15 PM
  #1519  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 55
Default

Deleted - I get why turning the center diff should be like stirring a pot of hardening 30 minute epoxy now

Last edited by intercede007; 03-10-2017 at 11:25 PM.
intercede007 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 12:34 AM
  #1520  
Tech Adept
 
5tone's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: france
Posts: 163
Default top plate not aligned

Hi mates !
just starting my build; and the top plate (92038) is not perfectly aligned with the steering posts (about 1-2 mm )
i had to force on the chassis to assemble those 2 parts
is it normal ?

i also have the right bellcrank slightly rubs the right siderail... on max angle
note that the left side doesn't rubs.
5tone is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 04:33 AM
  #1521  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 141
Default

Got to spend some more time with the buggy last night, was nice as I raced through the build. Some observations.

- I think people are cracking the transmission cases for a couple reasons. A) pre-thread the case with an extra screw and black grease. Run the screw into each hole a couple times. This loosens up the threads / hole and gets the excess plastic out of the hole. And B) some of the screws are too long (for example those for the wing mount and rear shock tower. If you wind those 14mm screws in tight they will push out or crack the opposite side.

- the front sway bars will fit the rear, not sure if they will work but there seems to be clearance. The angle of the bend might not be optimal for the rear though as the end links are skewed.

- the center diff needs to be shimmed too, it's loose and could hit the top cover. Think I used 4 shims to push the assembly forward.

- my rear diff was binding in one spot, shimming and wrestling with it got me nowhere. AE sent me a new gearbox case and it fixed the issue.

That's all I got!

Last edited by Tobey457; 03-11-2017 at 09:30 AM.
Tobey457 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 09:30 AM
  #1522  
Tech Rookie
 
Buzz209's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Central CA
Posts: 2
Default

Originally Posted by Cain View Post
in general, what do you guys feel is one of the better fans to use for cooling a 1/10 4wd buggy motor (high cooling speed, durability). I have seen a few at the track, some just seem to make a bit more noise than others.
Purchased the Maclan 30mm HV Turbo Fan and ran it all last season without issue. Kept the motor cool during the summer months when ambient temps are regularly above 100 degrees.

Amain sells the fans for $12.99, item #MCL4016.
Buzz209 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 11:19 AM
  #1523  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 116
Default

There is no way that the updated turnbuckle measurements are correct. I had atleast 5* or more of toe in at the front and nearly 10* of camber. I ended up going 2mm longer on the camber and 2mm~ shorter on the steering turnbuckles to get it right.

At the default settings when turning to full lock at either side it would cause the opposite arm to rise up, even before putting on the swaybars and shocks.


Other than that my build went together pretty well. I haven't had it out at the track yet but here in the yard and on the street it has a ton of steering. My only complaint is how little space there is under the body shell, it makes running electronics a PITA.
jimmer411 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 01:13 PM
  #1524  
TAW
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 547
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jimmer411 View Post
There is no way that the updated turnbuckle measurements are correct. I had atleast 5* or more of toe in at the front and nearly 10* of camber. I ended up going 2mm longer on the camber and 2mm~ shorter on the steering turnbuckles to get it right.

At the default settings when turning to full lock at either side it would cause the opposite arm to rise up, even before putting on the swaybars and shocks.


Other than that my build went together pretty well. I haven't had it out at the track yet but here in the yard and on the street it has a ton of steering. My only complaint is how little space there is under the body shell, it makes running electronics a PITA.
Did you actually use calipers to measure when you built them? The drawings are not to scale. I have now built two 64's by the supliment measuresments and they have been pretty spot on.
TAW is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 04:55 PM
  #1525  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 13
Default

First day of running at the track. Running the Alex kosciuszek set up sheet.

Way too twitchy. Feels like the car is floating back and forth and I can't get it to settle down. When I turn there is that moment of oversteering then the correction and then counter correction. Fought that all day. Felt like oversteer?

What should I be looking to do to help correct this? 37.5wt yellow front shocks, 5k front diff. 30wt white rear shocks 3k rear diff. Car was wanting to go left/right swaying back and forth. 20mm ride height.
Trickyii is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 05:06 PM
  #1526  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
Thrifty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 285
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Hope these issues are sorted out by the time the "carpet" version is released.. might pick one up then..
Thrifty is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 05:23 PM
  #1527  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 38
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Trickyii View Post
First day of running at the track. Running the Alex kosciuszek set up sheet.

Way too twitchy. Feels like the car is floating back and forth and I can't get it to settle down. When I turn there is that moment of oversteering then the correction and then counter correction. Fought that all day. Felt like oversteer?

What should I be looking to do to help correct this? 37.5wt yellow front shocks, 5k front diff. 30wt white rear shocks 3k rear diff. Car was wanting to go left/right swaying back and forth. 20mm ride height.
I would think thicker diffs front and rear. Why are they so low?
roffutt is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 05:33 PM
  #1528  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
 
storm800's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Omro
Posts: 451
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

10k-200k-10k have been good on Coles car so far. We haven't run with the 10 degree castor blocks much, but with the 13 degree his car has been money. Not running the gearbox shim either.
storm800 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 05:41 PM
  #1529  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (20)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,465
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

MIP is running some prototype puck drive parts for the 13.5 class B64 at the desert classic. Front, rear, and center shafts. Supposedly a 20% decrease in rotating mass.
MX304 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2017, 05:44 PM
  #1530  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 55
Default

Following this setup sheet as this is my home track https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...ans_Rumble.pdf

I'm on page 10, Steering Block Build, step one. Is the axle height setting in the setup sheet the caster block bushings? Instructions want the thick bushing to the bottom, but it seems like my setup sheet would put the thin bushing on the bottom. Is that how the axle height setting is made?
intercede007 is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service