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Old 01-06-2017, 06:17 AM
  #976  
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Originally Posted by Casper
Tekin 255 software is pretty amazing. extra smooth and the drive freq and torque settings allowed really come in handy when taming down the power or tuning to a feel you are looking for. I have not used the hobbywing stuff so can't comment on it other than I know guys you are please with the performance. I don't see a reason mixing is a problem.
Casper,
Any chance we can get your tekin 255 s/w settings for the 4600kv? Your website has the older s/w posted.

Trying my old 4600kv out in my new 3.0 this weekend. Love the new truck! So easy to drive and a great bang for the buck. Now if TLR could only include some talent in the box also.....
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Old 01-06-2017, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by teekv1
very new to SCT, just built this kit - stoked!

seeing LOTS of different opinions on motors....here and everywhere else. was about to pull the trigger on a tekin pro 4 HD then started finding a lot of ppl that like 2 poles...

any advice? the truck/motor will ideally fit two tracks (after tuning, of course) - an indoor, small (12-13 sec laps) med-high bite clay track, and an outdoor "1/8 scale" track that is currently being built-this will be a "medium-large" track and I'm not entirely sure what the surface will look like yet. as of now i'll be running the orion r10.1 (because I have it already.)

2 pole? 4 pole? either will work but why do you like one over the other?

thanks!!
The large 2 pole motors are heavy and will take some time to tune the set up . They usually run warmer . They are usually a little easier to drive on a loose dusty track , but will not be good for a indoor tight track where the timing advantage is lost. The 4 poles are really the way to go. I will leave the esc discussion out this , but as far as motors go there are really only 2 choices , hobbywing or tekin . The trinity is out there , and so are a few left over novak 4 pole sc motors , but the HW and Tekin are the bread and butter motors . Since you have outdoors in your future , go with the 4700 or 4600. The HD 4300 is good too , hits batteries hard though and is a bit heavy. Then there are the 4000 kv motors . I run mostly indoors right now and the 4000 hw , with a 16t pinion , 10dg of timing, on a rx8 is more than enough . My motor has hit 160 , my esc without a fan has never hit 4 lights on the temp sensor. I wont run the 4000 Tekin pro 4 , I had one and it was always a disappointment. When I go back outside in the spring I will be going to a 4700 (or 4600 , whichever I get a deal on ) . The higher kv motors are more tractable in the hot dry weather , and they just plain jump long 1/8 double and triples better with the extra wheel speed. The hd4300 is more than happy inside or out , just gear up .
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Old 01-06-2017, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by wittyname
The large 2 pole motors are heavy and will take some time to tune the set up . They usually run warmer . They are usually a little easier to drive on a loose dusty track , but will not be good for a indoor tight track where the timing advantage is lost. The 4 poles are really the way to go. I will leave the esc discussion out this , but as far as motors go there are really only 2 choices , hobbywing or tekin . The trinity is out there , and so are a few left over novak 4 pole sc motors , but the HW and Tekin are the bread and butter motors . Since you have outdoors in your future , go with the 4700 or 4600. The HD 4300 is good too , hits batteries hard though and is a bit heavy. Then there are the 4000 kv motors . I run mostly indoors right now and the 4000 hw , with a 16t pinion , 10dg of timing, on a rx8 is more than enough . My motor has hit 160 , my esc without a fan has never hit 4 lights on the temp sensor. I wont run the 4000 Tekin pro 4 , I had one and it was always a disappointment. When I go back outside in the spring I will be going to a 4700 (or 4600 , whichever I get a deal on ) . The higher kv motors are more tractable in the hot dry weather , and they just plain jump long 1/8 double and triples better with the extra wheel speed. The hd4300 is more than happy inside or out , just gear up .
Besides the two pole being easier to drive, I completely disagree. I ran the 2 pole 4.5T 550 thunder power w/ orion r10 pro in my scte 2.0 and primarily ran tacky indoor tight tracks and dusty bigger outdoor tracks and never felt i had any disadvantages and usually finished in the top 3. Usually after 10 minute run usually was at 150 F and I am hard on the trigger and not at all that smooth. I ran a small associated heat sink just in case but never had any heat related issues. I think a big issue with people with the 4 poles is people have way too much punch/power and end up spinning the tires constantly. I would definitely consider trying a two pole with a 10 scale esc, i would not recommend a rx8 esc (2 pole was a dog with it for whatever reason). A 2 pole is definitely more smoother and easier to drive in all conditions. Must be decent if Phend still runs a 2 pole in his scte.
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Old 01-06-2017, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboTodd
Casper,
Any chance we can get your tekin 255 s/w settings for the 4600kv? Your website has the older s/w posted.

Trying my old 4600kv out in my new 3.0 this weekend. Love the new truck! So easy to drive and a great bang for the buck. Now if TLR could only include some talent in the box also.....
I will see about getting updated Tekin setups on the site this weekend.
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
losicory-- You have not run the lastest few software versions.
That is probably true Casper. Most all of the top brand stuff out there now has PWM tuning and that does make a world of difference in power delivery curve.
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:10 AM
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The new torque settings vs the old current limiter help a lot as well as the adjustment of the drive and brake freq.
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Old 01-06-2017, 02:37 PM
  #982  
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I race with hundreds of short course racers. Not one of them runs a 2 pole. A 4 pole has double the torque. 2 poles rev higher on top, and feel smoother because they dont hit like a 4 pole does. Much harder to pull hard out of turns to clear big jumps with a 2 pole, and you have to drive smoother and carry you're mometum more.

If you're car is "spinning"... that doesn't have any thing to do with the motor. Thats your finger squeezing too hard. A 2 cell class like short course, you want as much power as you can milk out of your truck. 100c battery and a high KV 4 pole 550 is what 99% of my fellow racers run.

The only benefit to running a 2 pole would be the fact that they're dirt cheap. You can get an Atomik Red 550 2 pole 4400kv for $19.99. I used to run a 4400 and a 4800 2 pole and did okay with them. But they're not the best tool for the job.
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Old 01-06-2017, 03:29 PM
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Old 01-06-2017, 04:17 PM
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I saw Dakota Phend run his truck in person and it was absolutely ballistic with a 2 pole.
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Old 01-06-2017, 06:36 PM
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Battery Spacing – This is certainly a personal preference or a setup type adjustment, but here are some starting recommended positions. A lot of it is based on the surface and the motor you run on. For those of you running dirt off-road tracks, we recommend using the middle position if using a 540 length motor and the forward position if using a 550 length motor. If running on carpet or Astro-Turf, it is one position back from each of those based on the motor size.

Does this change with the 3 degree motor plate?
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Old 01-06-2017, 07:32 PM
  #986  
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Originally Posted by TurboTodd
Battery Spacing – This is certainly a personal preference or a setup type adjustment, but here are some starting recommended positions. A lot of it is based on the surface and the motor you run on. For those of you running dirt off-road tracks, we recommend using the middle position if using a 540 length motor and the forward position if using a 550 length motor. If running on carpet or Astro-Turf, it is one position back from each of those based on the motor size.

Does this change with the 3 degree motor plate?
I always prefer battery all the way back, even with a 550 motor and the -3mm chassis and the 3 deg motor plate.
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Old 01-06-2017, 09:27 PM
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I've finally did it. Got rid of the buggy body and got the posts and side guards mounted. Ready to paint the truck body now after I cut all them holes out. Lol. Now I will be on same page as y'all.
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Old 01-07-2017, 05:59 AM
  #988  
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Default Battery forward vs rear position on the 3.0

Originally Posted by Frank Root
I always prefer battery all the way back, even with a 550 motor and the -3mm chassis and the 3 deg motor plate.
Should I change diff or shock weight from the kit settings 7-7-5 front 40wt rear 35wt when trying the rear battery conf? What do you notice with the rear vs front battery conf? I run on a indoor 1/8 scale sugar track that's med to higher bite if/when prep.
Thx,
Todd
Attached Thumbnails TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-track.jpg   TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-track1.jpg  
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Old 01-07-2017, 12:16 PM
  #989  
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Originally Posted by TurboTodd
Should I change diff or shock weight from the kit settings 7-7-5 front 40wt rear 35wt when trying the rear battery conf? What do you notice with the rear vs front battery conf? I run on a indoor 1/8 scale sugar track that's med to higher bite if/when prep.
Thx,
Todd
Those diff and shock settings are fine. Most important thing is getting better stiffer springs. Kyosho X gear Big Bores are the way to go if you're serious about performance. Or the TLR Silver rear and Brown fronts will be better. Battery in the rear, with the short ackerman is the best set up IMO.
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:39 PM
  #990  
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Originally Posted by TurboTodd
Should I change diff or shock weight from the kit settings 7-7-5 front 40wt rear 35wt when trying the rear battery conf? What do you notice with the rear vs front battery conf? I run on a indoor 1/8 scale sugar track that's med to higher bite if/when prep.
Thx,
Todd
That track is super nice! Problem with lipo in rear will be the springs. I still feel the 2.0 tuning springs are the way to go. They hold the truck up like they should. They don't rub the shock body and its easy to find the parts needed. You can mod the 2.0 spring collars or get some adapters like I use. Pics here.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/14739098-post738.html

I have the 22 springs if you want them for free. 3 pack of fronts and the red and silver for rear, all new or less than 3 test lipos. Pay me for cost of bubble package, 1st class mail, paypal fees and they are yours. PM if interested. If Turbo doesn't want them they are up for grabs.
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