26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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07-08-2017, 09:17 PM
#4591
07-09-2017, 12:45 PM
#4593
Chassis
I have been thinking about the laydown chassis. It only has a few spots milled out on it and I've noticed that the 4.0 chassis has a lot of milling on it.
Have any of you tried the factory chassis with the laydown?
Just don't want to go through the trouble of drilling the holes in the chassis if there weren't any changes to the handling.
Have any of you tried the factory chassis with the laydown?
Just don't want to go through the trouble of drilling the holes in the chassis if there weren't any changes to the handling.
07-09-2017, 05:09 PM
#4595
This is what you need and yes they will fit.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...234074/p568674
07-10-2017, 04:48 AM
#4596
TLR234074
This is what you need and yes they will fit.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...234074/p568674
This is what you need and yes they will fit.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...234074/p568674
07-10-2017, 05:01 AM
#4597
07-10-2017, 05:56 PM
#4598
Hello fellow TLR owners. I ordered a Protek titanium screw kit for my spec racer, comes with 71 screws. Does anyone have a list or can point me in the right direction of which specific screws you would NOT replace due to being in high stress areas? Thanks in advance.
08-04-2017, 10:47 PM
#4599
Just wanted to bump because there are some good deal on these sweet buggies. Ran my B6d three race days. It's sweet. But I found a nib 22 3.0 for 209 bay of e. Cannot wait to get it together to try. But whatever.
08-05-2017, 02:34 PM
#4600
My 22 3.0 suddenly began slipping either the diff or the slipper clutch on all hard acceleration. The car has run fine for months and I can't connect this beginning to any particularly hard crash or whatever.
I scraped the slipper pads and tightened the nut all the way down. It still slips/barks. So I reset tightness on the diff. Still happened so I cranked the diff down way too tight. Still slips.
Took the diff apart, the rings are not excessively grooved. Rolled the balls around on a flat surface and they feel fine. Put together and readjusted everything: with the wheels held in place I cannot rotate the spur against the diff or slipper, so it feels totally fine. But on acceleration it slips and whines, spur spins fast but car pulls away slow.
I would just throw another spare diff in BUUUT this stupid car has the 17.5 pucks in it which take different diff rings that apparently you can't buy as spares. So I gotta buy a whole pucks set to get diff parts or switch to different outdrives/universals.
I scraped the slipper pads and tightened the nut all the way down. It still slips/barks. So I reset tightness on the diff. Still happened so I cranked the diff down way too tight. Still slips.
Took the diff apart, the rings are not excessively grooved. Rolled the balls around on a flat surface and they feel fine. Put together and readjusted everything: with the wheels held in place I cannot rotate the spur against the diff or slipper, so it feels totally fine. But on acceleration it slips and whines, spur spins fast but car pulls away slow.
I would just throw another spare diff in BUUUT this stupid car has the 17.5 pucks in it which take different diff rings that apparently you can't buy as spares. So I gotta buy a whole pucks set to get diff parts or switch to different outdrives/universals.
08-05-2017, 07:04 PM
#4601
whos running the 3.0 spec car on carpet? (yea i know i should get a 4.0 but...)
08-05-2017, 11:34 PM
#4602
My 22 3.0 suddenly began slipping either the diff or the slipper clutch on all hard acceleration. The car has run fine for months and I can't connect this beginning to any particularly hard crash or whatever.
I scraped the slipper pads and tightened the nut all the way down. It still slips/barks. So I reset tightness on the diff. Still happened so I cranked the diff down way too tight. Still slips.
Took the diff apart, the rings are not excessively grooved. Rolled the balls around on a flat surface and they feel fine. Put together and readjusted everything: with the wheels held in place I cannot rotate the spur against the diff or slipper, so it feels totally fine. But on acceleration it slips and whines, spur spins fast but car pulls away slow.
I would just throw another spare diff in BUUUT this stupid car has the 17.5 pucks in it which take different diff rings that apparently you can't buy as spares. So I gotta buy a whole pucks set to get diff parts or switch to different outdrives/universals.
I scraped the slipper pads and tightened the nut all the way down. It still slips/barks. So I reset tightness on the diff. Still happened so I cranked the diff down way too tight. Still slips.
Took the diff apart, the rings are not excessively grooved. Rolled the balls around on a flat surface and they feel fine. Put together and readjusted everything: with the wheels held in place I cannot rotate the spur against the diff or slipper, so it feels totally fine. But on acceleration it slips and whines, spur spins fast but car pulls away slow.
I would just throw another spare diff in BUUUT this stupid car has the 17.5 pucks in it which take different diff rings that apparently you can't buy as spares. So I gotta buy a whole pucks set to get diff parts or switch to different outdrives/universals.
08-06-2017, 09:32 PM
#4603
I did not. I assumed that since the diff is not slipping under thumb pressure against the spur with wheels held that the problem must exist outside it, but I didn't think to examine the thrust bearing either. I'll check it out.
Stores online are liquidating pucks setups for the 22SCT so it was cheaper to just buy a complete new diff, outdrives, and SCT universals from MIP than to get a set of rings and balls. That comes with new thrust parts too so I'll rebuild the whole shebang and see what happens.
Stores online are liquidating pucks setups for the 22SCT so it was cheaper to just buy a complete new diff, outdrives, and SCT universals from MIP than to get a set of rings and balls. That comes with new thrust parts too so I'll rebuild the whole shebang and see what happens.
08-08-2017, 12:44 AM
#4604
About got mine all built. Waiting on a servo. Is there supposed to be a gap here???? Looks kinda strange. Huge thanks.
08-08-2017, 12:57 AM
#4605
Scrap that comment, i can see the bulkhead further forward and in the correct place.