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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-14-2016, 05:47 PM
  #1606  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
IMO worth doing.. best single tune I've made to this vehicle. Tested it last night.
Now team drivers are going away from that and testing weight in the back. About 45-50 grams.
Rumor has it tekno will release "c" and "d" blocks made of steel to add the weight nice and low.
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Old 05-15-2016, 06:45 AM
  #1607  
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Hey guys, thought I would say hi now that I ordered up a EB48.3. My first Tekno purchase and I'm excited to see how it goes. I do some backyard tracks and hope to travel to some of the bigger tracks this summer and have my hand at some real racing.
I've looking at the basic Tekin RX8 1900kv with a high voltage savox. Starting with a 17T pinion and also adding a hotwire to adjust my setting.
Anything else I should look at or maybe something I shouldn't get?
Thanks guys I look forward to interacting and reading threw the past pages..
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:07 AM
  #1608  
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Get an alloy servo horn. The Tekno one is great. You may want to go to an 18 or 19 pinion depending on the size of your track. Tuning options like springs or roll bars are nice along with fluids.
Great car out of the box. Enjoy the build.
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:31 AM
  #1609  
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Tekno servo horn added and now order is placed. Also ordered up some SMC 4s packs to go with my build. Most of the local tracks are smaller so I figured 17 would be a good start but will pick up a few others to adjust as I run.
Whats a good weight shock oil to start with or should I just stick with box specs?
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:50 AM
  #1610  
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Originally Posted by wrightcs77
Now team drivers are going away from that and testing weight in the back. About 45-50 grams.
Rumor has it tekno will release "c" and "d" blocks made of steel to add the weight nice and low.
Interested to see the final results.. I've used weight though already this felt better than just adding weight for me.. with just a 1.5mm spacer it didn't seem to put any risk to parts so for now it's a better buggy so I'm sticking w/ it.

This isn't needed on the ET and it didn't seem to help the sct either.

Last edited by 8ight-e; 05-15-2016 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 05-15-2016, 11:19 AM
  #1611  
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Getting after it, what blocks should i run instead, i blew out the stock front setup and i have the remaining blocks from the kit

thanks
Attached Thumbnails Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-img_3310.jpg  
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Old 05-15-2016, 02:25 PM
  #1612  
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My 1st race with Tekno, 6th on the grid (white/orange painting). Finished 5th.
Awesome track!

https://youtu.be/xAMfifRVTsE
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Old 05-15-2016, 06:35 PM
  #1613  
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Originally Posted by SLW-SVT
Okay, good call. I have not been cleaning the old threadlock off. Is it completely necessary to take everything apart to hold the diff pinion gear in while tightening the drive cup to make sure there is no slop? Or is it okay to have a tiny bit of slop?
A little slop is ok, but that definition varies by person, so I'll say it should have no more than .1mm or so of movement. The less movement the better. Some I can get to be tight enough without opening the case, others I have to open the case and hold it on.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:23 AM
  #1614  
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Originally Posted by Kave
Did you lower the links and the pills as well or just put the shim in?
The recommended settings are
2 on the tower for camber
1 dot down for the C block
2 dots down for the D block

Essentially your rear pivot points, both top and bottom.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:27 AM
  #1615  
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Originally Posted by wrightcs77
Now team drivers are going away from that and testing weight in the back. About 45-50 grams.
Rumor has it tekno will release "c" and "d" blocks made of steel to add the weight nice and low.
Rumors can get ya in trouble

And for what it's worth, I've not met anyone yet who took the shim out. If I remember, I'll try it back to back next practice day and see which I prefer, but since I put it in, I haven't taken it out.
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:38 PM
  #1616  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Rumors can get ya in trouble

And for what it's worth, I've not met anyone yet who took the shim out. If I remember, I'll try it back to back next practice day and see which I prefer, but since I put it in, I haven't taken it out.
Bob try my pill settings (above) on the buggy worked better than what they were doing.. at least for me Appreciate the nudge to giving that shim a shot.
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Old 05-16-2016, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Bob try my pill settings (above) on the buggy worked better than what they were doing.. at least for me Appreciate the nudge to giving that shim a shot.
will do im planning on trying this setup

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ern%20Nats.pdf
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:19 PM
  #1618  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
will do im planning on trying this setup

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...ern%20Nats.pdf
I'm actually very close to that setup.. that reminds me I should try removing the back brace
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Rumors can get ya in trouble

And for what it's worth, I've not met anyone yet who took the shim out. If I remember, I'll try it back to back next practice day and see which I prefer, but since I put it in, I haven't taken it out.
My results have been the same, the shim makes the car much easier to drive and more predictable while having more rear grip. I see no time when I would ever take the shim out.
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:48 PM
  #1620  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
...how many people are using the diff spacer to lift it up off the chassis, any top level guys or just guys messing around?
I'm new to Tekno (just ordered the eb48.3!) and read through this entire thread but don't see details of this diff spacer mod. Did I miss it somewhere? Can someone point me in the right direction for where to find what this is and how to do it?

For batteries, I see that Joe's setups are typically with 6500 batteries while Ryan's are mostly 5000. That seems like a pretty big difference in weight between those two sizes that would affect the setup. Is there a recommended battery weight that works best in the eb48.3 or does this difference in weight not really affect the buggy that much?
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