mxnickj

iTrader: (51)

What is the actual difference between the .0 and the .5 motors? I see reedy has a few of the .0 motors as well as the .5 motors

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

Im pretty sure its the diff but I could be wrong. I can try tightening up the slipper. Yes its a 8.0T Fantom. Its only a month or so old and raced 6-7 times.

Any downsides to switching to a gear diff? What parts would be needed?

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

My truck was crap with a gear diff.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

The way they physically wind the stator is different. They seem to be a little slower but have smooth power and gobs or torque.

TotopoRC

Heyb1967Thypoon, how did it work the Inline setup with a full 2s stick pack across the chassis? I kind of want to do the same with my truck but I want to ask first

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

I tightened up the diff a little more and it seems like the noise is gone. Maybe it was still just a little loose.

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

I have one shock that seems to be leaking shock fluid from the top. I noticed the O-ring sticks out a little once tighten down. Should I replace just the O-ring or replace the shock cap and O-ring both?

Also is anyone running the MIP "Super Diff"? Specs below. Just curious if anyone saw any noticeable difference?





This is the MIP Bi-Metal "Super Diff" Differential Kit for the Team Associated B5 and B6 series vehicles. Ball differentials are essential to any racer’s program, and as of late MIP has shied away from the conventional steel pin drive differential design; but no longer ladies and gentleman, because MIP has a ball differential that is anything but conventional.
Featuring their two piece bi-metal outdrive design that’s comprised of both 7075–T6 aluminum and high grade heat tempered, the MIP Super Diff will automatically shed 30% off of your OEM rotating mass; this equates to quicker acceleration, perfect for any motor/car combination!
MIP is also including both Tungsten Carbide diff balls and MIP’s rebuildable machined aluminum T-Nut (MIP15010)! Though small, both of these upgrades will give you a longer lasting smooth differential, a wider range of adjustability, and of course making sure it stays in its set position longer. Overall you will ditch 30% of your rotating mass while keep the same driving characteristics you are used to. Say “NO” to a heavy inefficient differential, and say “YES” to MIP’s Bi-Metal differential for your stock, super-stock, or modified vehicle. Always Made 100% in the USA!
Features:
Tungsten Carbide Diff Balls
Machined Aluminum T-Nut
Two Piece Bi-Metal Diff components
Direct Stock Diff replacement
Hard Polished Drive Rings
Bearing Steel “Grooved” Thrust Washer
7075-T6 Hard Anodized Alum Drive Hubs
100% Quality made in the USA!
Includes:
(2) MIP Confetti Sticker
(14) 3/32” Tungsten Carbide Diff Ball
(2) MIP Modified Diff Ring
(7) 1/16” Bearing Chrome Steel Ball
(1) #2 Washer Hardened
(1) Diff Lube & Grease Cup
(1) ¼ x 9/32” Diff Spring
(1) 2-56 x .925 Diff Screw Shoulder
(1) 0.236 MIP Thrust Retainer
(2) 5mm x 8mm x 2.5mm Bearing
(1) 0.250 MIP T-Nut Housing
(1) 0.250 MIP T-Nut Insert
(1) MIP Bi-Metal Outdrive Cup Male
(1) MIP Bi-Metal Outdrive Cup Female
(2) MIP Bi-Metal Outdrive Hub
Requires:
(1) Stock Diff Gear to complete (ASC91419)
(1) 2.0mm Allen Key (recommended MIP9008 MIP Hex Driver Wrench 2.0mm)
Support Products:
MIP15010: MIP Machined T-Nut, .250 Bore
MIP16015: MIP Super Diff, Bi-Metal Outdrives, “Pin Drive”, M&F, All AE 6/5 Series Vehicles
MIP16061: MIP Super Diff, Bi-Metal Hub, All AE 6/5 Series Vehicles
MIP16065: MIP Super Diff, Bi-Metal Rebuild Kit w/Carbide Diff Balls
MIP99061: HW-Bearing, 5x8x2.5mm (2)
MIP99099: HW-Diff T-Nut Insert (2)
MIP99107: HW-Bearing, 3/32” Tungsten Carbide Ball (14)
MIP99108: HW-Bearing, 3/32” Ch. Steel Ball (14)

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

Schelle sells a version of that but uses their ceramic caged thrust and carbide balls. I's say that its marginally better.

hsp-sandiego

iTrader: (7)

Truck is easiest to drive with a shorty all the way back or @ 5mm forward. keeping weight low is always good - personally, i wouldn't run the esc on the waterfall.

Wease

iTrader: (77)

I decided to convert my T5M to an SC5M for my son to race on carpet. The front bumper is back ordered everywhere from what I can tell. I'm usually pretty good at hunting down hard to find parts, but the SC5M front bumper is MIA. Why is this part in particular hard to find? Are people breaking them a lot?

mxnickj

iTrader: (51)

can someone with the AE rear swaybar tell me what the measurement of the links should be to start with?

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

They do break pretty easily. I've broken mine but just used my thinker-thingy and fixed it.

Wease

iTrader: (77)

At this point I would take a broken front bumper so that I had a chance to use my thinker thingy, but since I'm converting from a T5M I need a new bumper

mxnickj

iTrader: (51)

My front bumper never "broke" but the first run out with the truck it nose-dived off a jump and it pulled the head of the screws though the mounting holes. All I had to do was put a washer on the screws and its been good ever since. Maybe I've just been lucky

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

That's exactly what mine did. I've seen many others with the same damage. Wease doesn't have one to break at this point though. Anyone have an extra for him?