Team Associated SC5M Thread
http://www.teamassociated.com/pictur...5M_746x150.jpg
1:10 Scale 2WD Mid Motor Electric Off Road Competition Truck Kit Based on Team Associated’s wildly successful, race-winning RC10B5M platform, the RC10SC5M Team Kit represents the next step in the evolution of competitive short-course racing. From great beginnings Starting with the data acquired through the development of the B5M and T5M, the engineers behind the doors of Team Associated’s AREA 51 set out to design the ultimate short-course truck chassis that utilizes all the advantages that come with a mid-motor configuration. Designed to win The RC10SC5M Team Kit features a high-performance, no-compromise dedicated mid-motor designed chassis, configured specifically for short course. The RC10SC5M Team Kit shares nearly 90% of the parts as the B5M and T5M Team Kits, making it easier than ever to run multiple classes at the same time. The right parts for the best performance From the aluminum hard anodized chassis, to the Factory Team V2 threaded shocks, to the Factory Team VTS slipper clutch, the RC10SC5M Team Kit comes with all of these features and many more. Through testing and racing, these specific parts have been hand selected to deliver the ultimate short-course truck performance. This vehicle needs extra parts to make it operational. Click on the SPECS tab above to see what extra equipment you'll need to make the vehicle operational, such as motor and battery pack. Features
http://www.teamassociated.com/pictur...dy_On_L_md.jpg http://www.teamassociated.com/pictur...TopDown_md.jpg http://www.teamassociated.com/pictur...20Off_L_md.jpg http://www.teamassociated.com/pictur...Profile_md.jpg MANUAL:SC5M Manual Arm insert supplement: Arm Mount Supplemental Instructions Gear Diff Supplement: Gear Diff Supplemental Instructions Aluminum Rear Hub Supplement: Aluminum Rear Hub Supplemental Instructions SET-UP SHEETS (both cars): Official AE Setup Sheets: Petitrc.com Setup Sheets: PetitRC Setup Sheets FACTORY TEAM PARTS: All Factory Team Parts can be found here: http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...s_accessories/ TIPS and TRICKS: How to free up your ball cups:
Other Resources Petit RC Page - Very Comprehensive guide for the B5 and B5M Tuning with Camber Links - Long read, and a different way to tune your car, but it can make more sense for some. Razathorn's Camber Link Tuning Guide Darcness's Tuning Guide Martin Crisp's Car Tuning Guide - Onroad oriented, but very informative. Learnsetup.com - App based setup sheets. Also by Martin Crisp, $10/year subscription. Anti Squat article How to set your slipper, rebuild your diff and adjust your ball diff (courtesy of Racer53):
How to build your ball diff (via Team Associated's youtube channel):
How to build and bleed your shocks (via Team Associated's youtube channel):
Diff building and break in procedure by Ryan Cavelieri and Jared Tebo: Ryan Cavelieri Video Jared Tebo Video AFTERMARKET PARTS: Red Workshop "Low CG" transmission for carpet and astro turf:Red Workshop Facebook Page RC Promask: RC Promask Parts Plan B Racing: Plan B Racing Parts - Graphite chassis, carbon fiber front shock towers, carbon fiber motor plate for 3 gear transmission and more Factory R/C: Carbon Fiber Battery Brace (Eliminates the battery foam) Acer Racing: Ceramic Bearing Kit CB Custom's Cut Gears: Custom Cut Gears WillS's Fan Mount: 3D Printed Fan Mount Alton Design Innovations Fan mount (replaces stock waterfall): ADI Fan Mount Fan Mount by xMOx on shapeways: Shapeways fan mount Fan Mount by ebrewste on shapeways: Ebrewste Shapeways fan mount ebrewste fan mount on shapeways (soft mount) New front axles with 5* of kingpin inclination by Elvo on shapeways: Inner bearing insert Outer bearing insert "Low Rider" low CG transmission for Carpet and astro turf by AC RC Gear on Shapeways: Left Gear Box Half Right Gear Box Half Vision Racing Products: X Pistons Hot Racing: Aluminum Front Axles Vented Twin Slipper Clutch Aluminum Diff Halves Aluminum Servo Mounts Aluminum Caster Blocks Aluminum Steering Blocks Aluminum Rear Hubs Graphite Link Mounts (replacement) Boom Racing: Aluminum Rear Arms Aluminum Front Arms (Flat) Aluminum Front C-Hubs Alluminum Rear Hubs Aluminum Front Shock Tower (Flat Arms) Aluminum Front Steering Knuckles PSM R/C: Aluminum Shock Standoff Aluminum Caster Block Insert -1mm Offset Front Axles +1mm Offset Front Axles 0 Offset Front Axles Aluminum Rear CVA Axles 5mm Carbon Front Shock Tower Casper R/C Ceramic Caged Thrust Bearing for Diff: Casper R/C Imbue R/C: 12mm Brass pistons Aluminum Front Axles Carbon Fiber Motor Plate Carbon Front Shock Tower Stiky Liks Racing Concepts: Stik Liks Milled Chassis JConcepts: Aluminum wing mounts Aluminum Wing Shim Aluminum Steering Bellcranks Aluminum Motor Mount Aluminum Front Suspension Brace Titanium Front Axle Aluminum Rear Hexes Aluminum Front Hexes Carbon Fiber Battery Brace Chassis Protector Fin Titanium Turnbuckles Pre-trimmed rear wing Tsunami R/C (Carbon fiber motor plates and battery braces): Tsunami R/C Store RDRP: Aluminum VTS Slipper Parts (use with AE slipper pads) Aluminum Shock Cups Aluminum Shock Mounts Aluminum Steering Rack Aluminum Motor Plate Brass Front Bulkhead Aluminum front bulkhead Sumo-Racing (Both B5 and B5m battery braces): Sumo Racing Carbon Battery Braces SNR Graphite: SNR Battery Brace Diggity R/C: Diggity Carbon Fiber Battery Brace Stick-it1 Graphics (custom name decals): Stick-it1 Graphics Epic1Designs: Chassis Protectors TBoneRacing: Nylon Rear Skid Plate RCShox: 2-Stage shock pistons Garodisc Slipper Pads - new style Garodisc Slipper Pads - old style Proline: Graphite Front Shock Tower (Flat Arm) Graphite Front Shock Tower (Gull Wing) Exotek Racing: B5M/B5 3 gear Flight motor plate Alloy Rear Hanger with shims Front Hinge Pin Brace 3-Gear Aluminum Vented Motor Plate B5/B5M Vented Flight Motor Plate Aluminum Rear Camber Mount Titanium Front Axles Aluminum Topshaft Carbon Fiber Front Shock Tower (Flat Arm) Carbon Fiber Front Shock Tower (Gull Wing) Aluminum Rear Clamping Hex Slipper Eliminator Carbon Fiber Battery Brace Aluminum Rear Wing Mount Aluminum Wing Buttons STRC: Aluminum Front Bulkhead Aluminum Steering Bellcranks Aluminum Front Suspension Brace Aluminum Front Castor Block Aluminum Rear Hubs Aluminum Finned Motor Plate Aluminum Shock Mounts Aluminum Rear Camber Link Carbon Fiber Battery Brace Titanium Screw and Aluminum Locknut Kit Protek: Titanium Screw Kit Pan Car Sized 2S pack for stock racing Titanium Rear CVA Axle RzHobby: Stainless Steel Screw Kit Titanium Screw Kit Fastener-Express: Fastener Express Screws in Bulk Bfast R/C (Diff rings, Diff Balls, Thrust Balls and more): Bfast R/C TKO Competition: TKO Flat diff rings Slick Diffz: Flat diff rings Flat diff rings with carbide balls Diff rings, carbide balls, ceramic thrust (caged) MIP: 3 Gear transmission with Aluminum Gear Case Puck Drive System with Shiney CVD's - For Mod Puck Drive System with Bi-metal CVD's - For Stock Bypass Shock Valve System Aluminum Top Shaft Lunsford: Titanium Turnbuckles Titanium Front Axles Titanium Shock Mounts Titanium Screw Kit Titanium Ball Stud Kit Avid: Ceramic Caged Thrust Bearing for Diff Carbide Caged Thrust Bearing for Diff Shock Standoffs Triad Evo Slipper Clutch New Triad Plates Aluminum Wing Buttons De-Shielded Transmission Bearing Kit Titanium Ball Stud Kit Aluminum Spring Cups Hate kit bearings? Build your own here: Custom Bearing Builder Aluminum Battery Thumb Screws Vented Motor Plate Schelle Racing: Aluminum Rear Hubs B5/B5M hub replacement bearings Ceramic Bearing set for 3 gear transmission One piece ceramic thrust and tungsten carbide diff balls Titanium Screw Kit B5 Steering Bushing Set Aluminum Shock Standoffs Carbon Battery Strap Chassis Protector Aluminum Top Shaft Ceramic Bearings - Transmission 4mm Aluminum Serrated Wheel Nuts Nova Slipper Clutch Nova Lockout Plate 64 Pitch 88 tooth Spur 64 Pitch 96 tooth Spur Aluminum Rear Arm mount Other Links Mcpappy Pinion Carrier: Pinion Tree, 64 pitch, but you could probably fit 48 pitch ones. Stiky Kicks Tire Sauce: Sticky Kicks AFTERMARKET BODIES: Sweep Racing: Muzzle Body FTW: B5M Reactor Body Jconcepts: Finnisher Body Silencer Body Proline: Phantom Body RCPromask: RC Promask Body TeamAzarashi: Team Azarashi Penguin: Penguin Body Frequently asked Questions and Answers Q: I'm missing parts or parts are not manufactured properly. Who can I contact? A: Contact AE: http://teamassociated.com/contact/ Q: When is the Factory Team version coming out? A: [b]THERE IS NO ETA ON THE FACTORY TEAM KIT....YET. Q:What is needed to convert T5M to SC5M? A:https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...64&oe=55EF978F Q: Will there be a rear motor version? A: [b]Probably not, when they released the T5M, Associated released a statement saying they believe mid motor can be tuned to work in almost any condition. Q: How much weight do some of the lightweight transmission pieces save? Do they make a difference? A: Here's a fantastic article on lightning your B5m courtesy of zeakemedia: http://www.prolineracing.com/blog/20...nd/#more-32666 Any lightweight topshaft, diff halves or cut gears will go to helping your transmission spin up faster, which is a real advantage in stock. Here are some pictures courtesy of Zeakemedia of some of the weight differences between stock and lightweight parts: Stock AE Top Shaft: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y88...s/photo4-1.jpg[/URL][/IMG] Aluminum Top Shaft: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y88...s/photo3-1.jpg Stock AE Diff Halves: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y88...s/photo1-1.jpg Lightweight Diff Halves: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y88...s/photo2-1.jpg Stock AE VTS Slipper: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y88...ics/photo3.jpg Speedy's RC Slipper Eliminator: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y88...ics/photo4.jpg Stock AE Idler and Diff Gears: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y88...ics/photo1.jpg Speedy's RC Cut Idler and Diff Gears: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y88...ics/photo2.jpg Notice the weight differences? With less weight, your transmission will accelerate faster which translate into more "punch". Eliminating the slipper is the easiest way to gain acceleration, especially when coming out of corner or trying to clear jumps. In the competitive "Stock" class, having that punch can mean all the difference. Q: I'm getting binding/grinding in my front wheel bearings, how can I fix this issue? A: There was/is an issue with the crush washer that resides between the two front wheel bearings. AE has addressed the issue with a running change. To fix the issue, simply get a new crush tube, buy better quality bearings (plenty of places sell bearings by the pack) or monitor the bearing inserts for molding issues. Also try a clamping hex with axle in the front (best solution). Q: Should I buy a B5R or a B5M? A: If you can afford it, buy both. If your local track is generally high bite, go with MM. If you race on a variety of track surfaces, having two cars is the best way to go. Q: What do I gain by cutting into the rear waterfall? A: More flex in the rear of the car, which can affect traction. Q: What Batteries Fit the B5M? A: All "Shorty", "Saddle" and "Square" packs will fit. If you run stock, you may want to try a 2s pan car pack like this. Q: How do I convert the VTS to a two-pad system? A: The best way is to get a second #9603 pad and use the #7495 Vented V2 Slipper Hubs to make a true two-pad slipper. If you don't want to spend the extra cash, just eliminate one of the #91177 pads and the #91178 VTS Plate. To be honest, the Avid Triad and Schelle Nova are good, more consistent replacements for the stock slipper system. Q: I just bought the aluminum steering bellcranks. Where does this little washer go? A: It goes between the bearings. It acts as a crush washer. *picture coming soon* Q: Do I need to lube the gears in the transmission? A: This is a strictly personal preference, but a little grease doesn't hurt anything. We are talking about a small dab of grease, in one spot, on each gear. What kind of grease you ask? Black or clear AE grease work, shock oil works; just about anything that will provide a little lubrication. Q: What gearing do I start with? A: This question is very track dependent, but for Stock, start off with a 66, 69 or 72 spur and 28-34 pinion. For Mod, follow the chart in the manual to start. Always gear for temperature, and check after every practice run to ensure you are not building up too much heat. Q: My turnbuckles keep popping off when I try to adjust them, how do I fix them? A: Make sure you have greased the threads with either black grease or chapstick. You may want to use a drill to "work" each turnbuckle into the cups (picture coming soon). This will cut and work the threads into the ballcups making it easier to make adjustments. Q: How can I free up my ball cups? They are too tight! A: See this or this video. Also try to polish and/or sand (with high grit sandpaper) the stock ball studs. Lunsford and Avid both offer titanium ball studs which should have better tolerances. See above parts listing for each. Q: What hop-ups should I get for my new kit? A: (If I had a dollar for every time this question comes up in a thread) :lol: Here's a list of the most popular upgrades:
Q: I just bought the aluminum rear hubs. Which sway do I mount them? A: B5M = etching to the rear. B5R = etching to the front Q: What does adding the B5's rear arms do for handling? A: Adding the B5's rear arms shortens the wheelbase of the B5M. There are two things to remember when adjusting the wheelbase of your car. The first point is that the shorter the wheel base, the easier it is for the car to "rotate" in the corner, which can translate into a looser car than a long wheel base scenario. The second point is that as you adjust the wheelbase, you are adjusting where the center balancing point of the car is relative to the front and rear of the car. In other words, you are moving the "static weight" of the car either to the front or the rear of the car. This affects the way the car will react while turning. For more information on how to adjust your car, see the above tuning links. Q: What does adding the flat front arms and tower do for the car? A: This is one of the better answers to this question: Essentially, the flat arms changes the way the front end of your car reacts. It is not a very expensive thing to try, and is definitely recommended. Q: Do the AE X-Rings make a difference in the shocks? A: Yes! They are expensive, but work better than stock, IMHO. Q: My B5M seems heavy. What hop-ups do I need to lighten it up for Stock racing? A: Here's a full list of items that will lighten up the car and make it a stock champion:
Q: I see both AE and MIP offer a 3 gear transmission; is it better than a 4 gear? A: See this: Also see this, from Kurt Wenger, former AE designer and Schelle Racing owner: And then see these explanations, courtesy of Team Durango: http://www.team-durango.com/blog/wp-...00x666_mm4.jpg http://www.team-durango.com/blog/wp-...00x666_mm3.jpg How does this translate to the track? A three gear *should* accelerate faster, which would be beneficial in stock. However, note the rotation of the motor. This can affect the way the car jumps, in-air stability and acceleration. If you have the cash, give it a try! Q: What is the "inline" setup I keep reading about? A: AKA, "The Tacompton Setup" the inline setup is an electronics configuration that puts the shorty lipo and the Esc inline on the chassis. Here are some pictures (courtesy of Markt311): http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/IMAG0547.jpghttp://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMAG0545.jpghttp://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/IMAG0546.jpg Here's another inline layout, but with the ESC behind the servo (photo by splking1): http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-photo1-1-.jpg Here's yet another inline setup (photo by Wild Cherry): http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1e3bec39.jpg Q: How can I cool my B5M motor? A: You can get this fan mount or this fan mount or you can mount your fan in like in these pictures: Note: The pictures I had in this section have been moved or deleted. I will add new ones soon. **Don't forget to add holes in the body to allow for airflow for the fan!** Q: How do I make the VTS Slipper work? A: Answer courtesy of Razathorn: Q: What type of Diff Balls and Thrust balls should I use? A: General consensus on this forum is that Carbide diff balls and Ceramic thrust balls make the best diff. I have used ceramic diff balls before, but it does require a tighter setting. I would suggest using the carbide/ceramic combo mentioned above, but make sure you follow a break-in procedure as outlined in the above links further up in this post. Q: What are the lightest motor plates? A: Here's a full list of all the current motor plates for the B5m and B5m Lite B5M: Exotek - 13grams Tsunami - PlanB - 10grams AE (stock) - 20grams AE (Machined) - B5m Lite: Exotek - 13grams AE (stock) - AE (Machined) - Q: A: |
My first mod will be to run a full stick pack right down the middle. It looks like it will fit just fine. Maybe esc on the waterfall.
Gotta say this truck looks killer. |
SOOO glad I sold my SC10.2 a few months ago!!! I wonder how much this one's going to cost???
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Originally Posted by Nissanguy8
(Post 14030340)
SOOO glad I sold my SC10.2 a few months ago!!! I wonder how much this one's going to cost???
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I wonder what it would take for a T5m to be transformed into this SC5M? I still have my T5M sealed in the box!!!
I mean would buying the parts to convert it be worth it or would it cost too much? |
Originally Posted by Nissanguy8
(Post 14030354)
I wonder what it would take for a T5m to be transformed into this SC5M? I still have my T5M sealed in the box!!!
I mean would buying the parts to convert it be worth it or would it cost too much? https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...64&oe=55EF978F |
Sold my T5M before opening. Definitely prefer a SCT. Excited to see what shakes.
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You need to fix a few links up top not the B5m lite.
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I'm wondering if I am going to regret selling all the +3mm offset wheels and tires from when I switched from my old 10.2 to a Losi mid motor. By the way, anyone wanna buy a Losi mid motor? Hehehehehe
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Originally Posted by bds81175
(Post 14030574)
I'm wondering if I am going to regret selling all the +3mm offset wheels and tires from when I switched from my old 10.2 to a Losi mid motor. By the way, anyone wanna buy a Losi mid motor? Hehehehehe
Does this mean that this truck requires +3 wheels? I have a crapload of zero offset wheels/tires and that could be the deal breaker for me on getting this truck. |
That's the million dollar question at this point. It won't be deal breaker for me but I'm in the process of selling off +3's and purchasing zeros. My Tekno and most others run zero. It would be nice if they were zero and I'm guessing you would agree.
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When you guys say +3, do you mean these? I know HPI runs +4.5, and I think (and am probably wrong) but losi runs +0. The rims for the Losi dont say anything about an offset so thats why im assuming losi runs +0
So are the rims below +3+3=+6? http://www.prolineracing.com/wheels/...-black-wheels/ |
Originally Posted by ridered4life250
(Post 14030760)
When you guys say +3, do you mean these? I know HPI runs +4.5, and I think (and am probably wrong) but losi runs +0. The rims for the Losi dont say anything about an offset so thats why im assuming losi runs +0
So are the rims below +3+3=+6? http://www.prolineracing.com/wheels/...-black-wheels/ |
Can't wait for this truck!
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okay if that is the case, then why does anyone care if the truck comes designed for +0 or +3. If it comes as +0, and you have all +3 rims, thats a good thing...
i dont see what the issue is. |
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