I dont have the issue with nose down, unless I tap the brakes or scrub. The truck is very sensitive to braking in the air. After, 2-3 laps , I was flat everywhere, including our rhythm sections. Just stay in a the gas a little. enough that drag braking does not occur.
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Nose down
I was thinking about selling my tekno sct410.3 because I was sick of holding the gas in the air at small jumps on tight tracks. Does anyone know if this sensitivity is of the same magnitude on the sc5m?
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 14164455)
I dont have the issue with nose down, unless I tap the brakes or scrub. The truck is very sensitive to braking in the air. After, 2-3 laps , I was flat everywhere, including our rhythm sections. Just stay in a the gas a little. enough that drag braking does not occur.
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I actually struggled with mine this weekend a bit. I moved back to our higher grip outdoor track (probably still med/high to most of you). On the higher grip, the truck felt better with a square battery all the way back as opposed to a shorty. Ended up flipping the rear camber link mount back over to the -2mm position with 2mm of washer under the ball stud. Tried with zero washers but it was too easy to lose the rear end in our sweeper at the end of the straight. Also, moved the rear hubs to the forward position and moved the rear upper shock mounting position to the inside. Switched the front springs out for orange with the 12mm shock bottom in front. Truck still wanted to swap ends suddenly under braking and the rear end would also snap free in the sweeper from time to time as well. I also experienced the nose down issue that some have mentioned but it didn't do it all the time. The folks that I had drive it after racing was done mentioned that it was a bit of a handful in the air. I think with the changes I made after racing was done (TQed but only got third in the main) I probably could have won the race but it still isn't where I want it to be. Comments welcome....
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I was told not to put the brass D mount on after purchasing.
Anyone know the advantages and disadvantages to the brass mount? |
Originally Posted by atvracer9m
(Post 14164560)
I was told not to put the brass D mount on after purchasing.
Anyone know the advantages and disadvantages to the brass mount? |
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 14164455)
I dont have the issue with nose down, unless I tap the brakes or scrub. The truck is very sensitive to braking in the air. After, 2-3 laps , I was flat everywhere, including our rhythm sections. Just stay in a the gas a little. enough that drag braking does not occur.
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Originally Posted by FNG RIDER
(Post 14164574)
Just built mine, it is stock except for 27.5 shock oil in the back. It jumps flat everywhere, although does nose down, off power rolling over the last jump of triples. I may try sc10 springs, stiffer front and softer rear. For now I will just drive it until something breaks; )
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 14164598)
I only nose down when I try to scrub. I hit the brakes once in the air, and I did a front flip....this was with brakes at 60%. This truck is very sensitive to scrubbing and braking, imo. Maybe a 3 gear would help with braking in the air.
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Originally Posted by JAE
(Post 14164497)
I was thinking about selling my tekno sct410.3 because I was sick of holding the gas in the air at small jumps on tight tracks. Does anyone know if this sensitivity is of the same magnitude on the sc5m?
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 14164563)
the further back you put the brass on the truck, makes it more like a rear motor. pendulum starts to come back. Most guys here in the US run the Brass C, at most.
Thank you! |
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 14164598)
I only nose down when I try to scrub. I hit the brakes once in the air, and I did a front flip....this was with brakes at 60%. This truck is very sensitive to scrubbing and braking, imo. Maybe a 3 gear would help with braking in the air.
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Originally Posted by VegasHB
(Post 14165053)
Should be running a 3 gear at SRS anyway right? The 3 gear helped a lot on both my b5m and t5m. Still turned the brakes down to 40% with a 13.5 on the T5m.
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Looking forward to picking up the SC5M that I won in a local track raffle. It will replace the SC10GT-E that I've been racing the past 2-3 years.
The "old" racers will remember this in any stock brush 27 turn class. CREEP, set your radio so the RC will creep forward to remove some drag brake. This assists in keeping the nose up in a jump. Early pictures of SC10GT-E http://www.t3t4webservice.com/SC10_GT2_e.html |
word of warning--
6mm hexes plus 71013 doesn't work with all wheels. Wheel nut hits shoulder of axle and stops before it's snug against the wheel. 7mm hex (watch with +3 wheels ) or a spacer/shim between the wheel/nut, or open up the back of your front nuts to fit over the shoulder if you keep the 6mm hex. AE wheel is the biggest gap: http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psljrmkkjn.jpg washer between nut and wheel: http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psdvwvbugw.jpg |
The SC5m was an almost perfect build. One rear arm has a fair bit of play, so I'll shim that, but everything else was great. I also ended up with a couple of extra bearings, I think for the old style top shaft.
The first 5 series I've had without tight ball cups. They are perfect without any pinching or polishing required. |
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