FRONTI3R

iTrader: (8)

TKR6063 Shock Pistons (CNC, conical, 6×1.5, 10.6mm²)

MattDub

iTrader: (6)

Hi Cameron,
You are very welcome. We appreciate questions like this as this is a new vehicle and many other customers will inquire about the same information.

You are measuring the droop properly. Basically the droop measurement we are using in the setup sheets is the total shock length measured from center of the shock stand off to center of the screw attaching the shock to the arm.

I do recommend looking at Ryan Lutz's latest setup from Nats. It was very good for a medium traction smooth track with very high speed sections.

I'm trying to understand why your truck is/was traction rolling. In my experience traction rolling is caused by too much weight transfer or by an outside wheel catching a rut and flipping violently or tires having too much traction.

Typically the first thing we do if there is an issue traction rolling or the opposite (sliding too much in a corner) is analyze the traction level and corner smoothness.

If traction is high we will go up on springs and sway bars to help keep the truck level in the corners and prevent traction rolling and excessively sitting on one corner of a vehicle. We did this on Ryan's Nats setup and it was much more consistent in the high speed sections and it exited the tight sections much more straight. If traction is high and we are using a tire that produces too much traction the vehicle will be very hard to control, overly sensitive to steering and throttle input and will be very affected by ruts and bumps on the track.

If the truck is pushing (front tires turned and car still goes straight) or the rear end wants to slide we will first look at tires. A car pushing and loose is an indication we are not using the proper tires. We will then adjust sway bars and springs to let the truck roll more. To a certain degree roll can add traction but too much roll will cause traction rolling and make the vehicle unpredictable in corners.

We typically run negative 2 degrees camber front and rear. On occasion we go to negative 3 rear camber if the surface is rough in the corners. This will affect forward grip but it will make the rear of the vehicle much less prone to catching a rut and flipping violently.

One last thing is to take in mind that SC in general is more prone to body roll and traction rolling due to the higher center of gravity caused by the body. Make sure your body is as low as possible without excessively rubbing the tires. Also make sure the body is as light as it can and still be strong enough to survive crashing.

Hope this helps.

AccessRacer

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for the information. Matt

albertv78

iTrader: (31)

I'm building a SCT410.3 for my kid to mess with and for some limited track time for me at OCRC (practice only, not worried about class rules). I've decided to try out the 4S route and go with a Tekin Pro 4HD 1850KV motor, HW SCT-Pro ESC, and low-profile 4S battery. What pinion gear do you guys recommend I start with? I used to run a 15 tooth pinion with a HW3656 4000KV 4 pole motor 2S setup on a previous SCT410 I had. I don't know what to start with.

-Al

Cain

iTrader: (294)

FYI I read on another forum someone breaking "dogbones" as he described, it, they are up to like 7 I am thinking on the sct410. They run in sandy conditions, no issues with tekno stuff on there slashes, just on there sct410s.

Let them know to contact tekno about it, if any of you are on that other "short course" forum, maybe see if can help?

m2cracing

what shock pistons is every one running.
I see that the nt48.3 is running 4 hole 1.8 , 8 hole 1.3.
These shock pistons are all over the place.
I make the 8 hole 1.3 flat and tapered for the Associated rc8.3
6 hole 1.3 flat for the mugen
all of the pistons are the same size as the tekno
So the question is what does every one want to try?
if you want a 4 hole 1.8 I can make them.
flat or tapered
lmk

coombes

iTrader: (6)

there no nt48.3 out yet as they don't know when it coming out

Ruffdog1

Dan,

I am new to this forum and somewhat new to RC racing. I have a the 410.3 and love it. It seems like the rear end of this setup is really soft. Are the jumps really small at this track? doesn't seem like you would have enough pack in the rear to land jumps without bottoming out pretty hard. I guy at my track is running the 6x1.5 pistons with 45 wt oil and orange springs and thinks it is still soft.

The tracking I run at is outdoors, low to medium grip red dirt, a few big doubles and somewhat bumpy and rutted. My rear end bounces pretty bad on the bumpy straits with green springs, stock pistons and 30 wt oil. I bought the 6 x 1.5 pistons for front and rear but trying to decide on springs and oil. I was thinking yellow or orange springs with 40 weight for rear to give me enough pack for the big jumps but will that be too stiff to soak up the bumps on the straits? I have also almost eliminated anti squat because i herd you don't want too much on a bumpy track.

Please help me figure out a good setup (mainly springs and oil and shock location on tower) for my outdoor track. Any advise on the front end for springs and oil would be greatly appreciated also. I plan on running 6x1.5 pistons front and rear

Sorry for the long post, just trying to get my sct410.3 better equipped for racing.

Thank you in advance!!

Ruffdog1

[QUOTE=MattDub;14106463]Most of our setups are for indoor but we are starting to get some outdoor setups too. Our site has a few, the link below might be a good starting point. Since the truck is new, our setups are limited. Check our site every week or so as we are trying to post new setups from our drivers and customers on a regular basis.

Dan,

I am new to this forum and somewhat new to RC racing. I have a the 410.3 and love it. It seems like the rear end of this setup is really soft. Are the jumps really small at this track? doesn't seem like you would have enough pack in the rear to land jumps without bottoming out pretty hard. I guy at my track is running the 6x1.5 pistons with 45 wt oil and orange springs and thinks it is still soft.

The tracking I run at is outdoors, low to medium grip red dirt, a few big doubles and somewhat bumpy and rutted. My rear end bounces pretty bad on the bumpy straits with green springs, stock pistons and 30 wt oil. I bought the 6 x 1.5 pistons for front and rear but trying to decide on springs and oil. I was thinking yellow or orange springs with 40 weight for rear to give me enough pack for the big jumps but will that be too stiff to soak up the bumps on the straits? I have also almost eliminated anti squat because i herd you don't want too much on a bumpy track.

Please help me figure out a good setup (mainly springs and oil and shock location on tower) for my outdoor track. Any advise on the front end for springs and oil would be greatly appreciated also. I plan on running 6x1.5 pistons front and rear

Sorry for the long post, just trying to get my sct410.3 better equipped for racing.

Thank you in advance!!

AccessRacer

iTrader: (22)

I am going to try 6x 1.5 pistons with 37.5 and Yellow Springs in the front and 32.5 with Yellow Springs in the rear and differentials set at 775. I race on an outdoor hard packed clay track in dry conditions.

Ruffdog1

Do you have smaller jumps at your track where you don't need a lot of pack for landings? Is your track smooth or bumpy? it seems like most people use stiffer springs and heavier weight oil in the front. What is the purpose of going stiffer up front? Are you using the stock 2.6mm sway bar up front?

On Ryan Lutz setup sheet he is using 550 oil for the front and 450 for the back. Is this weight or CST because I know that CST and weight are not the same? I assume it is 55 wt and 45 wt?

Sorry for all of the questions, just trying to learn and get faster at my track

AccessRacer

iTrader: (22)

My Track is a smooth 1/8 scale outdoor track with large jumps much like roar Nationals Track

MattDub

iTrader: (6)

Ruffdog, I recommend taking a look at the setups on our site. They will give you an idea of changes to make to better suit your track conditions.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...eets/SCT410_3/

Ruffdog1

Thanks for the link Matt. I looked at all of those. I guess I will try some thinner oils with my 6x1.5 pistons and see how it runs. Do you know how PT racing oil converts to associated? Ryan Lutz is running 550 front and 450 rear. From the charts I have seen that equates to about 35 wt front and 30 wt rear for associated oil. Does that sound right?

Thank you!!!

Sofa King

iTrader: (2)

550 cst is about 40(L) - 42.5(A) wt, 450 cst is about 35(L) - 37.5(A).