219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
|
12-12-2016, 07:54 PM
#4471
Vent is what what the fastest guys are running at the local track so I went that way.
12-13-2016, 06:42 AM
#4472
Tech Master
Ok thanks guys. I just want to use the 160amp esc from my 1/10 buggy without having to buy a new one.
Also another few quick questions.
Am i better off setting up shocks emulsion or vented?
Outdoor Track surface will vary from hard packed smooth to rough/bumpy. Also jumps involved.
Lastly we dont have a class of racing for 4wd sct locally here because there is not enough numbers. However there are now probably enough of us now to start one. I am going to run 1/8 wheels on mine. For you guys that race- do they allow the use of 1/8 wheels in the same race as those using 1/10 wheels?
Does it handle/jump better with 1/10 wheels or 1/8 wheels?
Cheers
Mark
Also another few quick questions.
Am i better off setting up shocks emulsion or vented?
Outdoor Track surface will vary from hard packed smooth to rough/bumpy. Also jumps involved.
Lastly we dont have a class of racing for 4wd sct locally here because there is not enough numbers. However there are now probably enough of us now to start one. I am going to run 1/8 wheels on mine. For you guys that race- do they allow the use of 1/8 wheels in the same race as those using 1/10 wheels?
Does it handle/jump better with 1/10 wheels or 1/8 wheels?
Cheers
Mark
For those just building the kit, if you drill the vent hole through where the screw goes in the cap, you can use the same shock caps to swap between the styles. If you drill the hole where the instructions say to for the vent, you'll need another cap set to try emulsion.
12-13-2016, 06:51 AM
#4473
12-13-2016, 06:58 AM
#4474
I remember back in my V1 days the car my daughter was using had the same setup as i was using except had emulsion shocks. I was using the "big" vent style setup (the Emulsion hold drilled and left open) and the way her truck handled it landed jumps more "dead" than mine. By that I mean, it felt like it just hit the ground and stayed down. It was easier to get on power again with her setup than with mine.
I am thinking of trying that here unless someone knows where vents would be better than the emulsion setup that I could take advantage of. Carpet high traction, slightly bumpy.
I am thinking of trying that here unless someone knows where vents would be better than the emulsion setup that I could take advantage of. Carpet high traction, slightly bumpy.
12-13-2016, 07:03 AM
#4475
Tech Master
I remember back in my V1 days the car my daughter was using had the same setup as i was using except had emulsion shocks. I was using the "big" vent style setup (the Emulsion hold drilled and left open) and the way her truck handled it landed jumps more "dead" than mine. By that I mean, it felt like it just hit the ground and stayed down. It was easier to get on power again with her setup than with mine.
I am thinking of trying that here unless someone knows where vents would be better than the emulsion setup that I could take advantage of. Carpet high traction, slightly bumpy.
I am thinking of trying that here unless someone knows where vents would be better than the emulsion setup that I could take advantage of. Carpet high traction, slightly bumpy.
A trick I was told for turf to avoid traction rolls, to stay on power through turns, that if you let off throttle your going over. (I've never raced 4wd on carpet, only dirt\clay\turf) Last time out I was told to put one strip of electrical tape on the outside of the front wheels, that you can push a little more into the turns. This helped me a lot where I tend to overdrive corners and traction roll on turf.
12-13-2016, 12:23 PM
#4476
yeah i was tempted to glue the outer side wall of my tires like my old carpet touring foam tire days lol. we all pretty much run clay slicks or something harder.
You guys see this info on the new steering parts:
Associated appears to have the right size turnbuckle too as well as lunford, with AE being cheaper. This is assuming its 4 x 50mm turnbuckle needed.
I remember that weird steering issue on my old SCT410.1 I had on long sweepers. Maybe this would help.
You guys see this info on the new steering parts:
It's different geometry that alters the ackermann. The best way to describe it is that it makes the steering feel smoother. It transitions better on and off power as well as beginning, middle, and end of a turn. The old geometry was pretty aggressive and once you started the turn the car could really start to come around on you. So if you had an increasing radius turn you often time would be turning too much, then counter steering to correct, then turning more to get back in line, etc. The new geometry fixes that. You can still get a lot of steering out of the car, but it is so much more usable than before. I really like the new steering setup in my SC truck, really helps calm it down.
I remember that weird steering issue on my old SCT410.1 I had on long sweepers. Maybe this would help.
12-13-2016, 12:25 PM
#4477
Tech Master
12-13-2016, 12:36 PM
#4478
lol you know I can't help it 
So, did a bit of searching but didn't see anything specific, on average if you did the 1 to 1 swap of lunsford turnbuckles for the stock SCT410.3 turnbuckles (NOT the SCT410 Lunsford kit) how much weight savings was seen?
Another option, assuming if you cut these you still have enough thread left:
TD310215 Team Durango Aluminum Turnbuckle 4x60mm
So, did a bit of searching but didn't see anything specific, on average if you did the 1 to 1 swap of lunsford turnbuckles for the stock SCT410.3 turnbuckles (NOT the SCT410 Lunsford kit) how much weight savings was seen?
Another option, assuming if you cut these you still have enough thread left:
TD310215 Team Durango Aluminum Turnbuckle 4x60mm
Last edited by Cain; 12-13-2016 at 12:49 PM.
12-13-2016, 01:14 PM
#4479
Tech Master
I doubt the benefits are worth the expense. Not too sure I would want titanium buckles anyhow.
12-16-2016, 02:05 PM
#4481
Tech Rookie
im having an issue where my top cover does not line up, its about a half screw diameter off center and i have to pull the front end towards the back to be able to get it to line up to get the screw started. the problem with this is i get binding in my steering when the front end is pulled back like that, the binding starts when im turning to the left, just a little bit past center i feel it hit something, and then when i continue to turn to the left i can feel it dragging a decent bit but i cant see what its hitting on, however if i undo the front 2 bolts on the front of the cover then theres no binding and it feels fine. im unsure what the issue is here.
you can see the holes not being aligned here(i unbolted the 4 bolts holding the front of the car to the chassis)
[/url]
heres how i have to pull the front to the rear to get them to align just to get the screws in
[/url]
and heres about how far left i need to steer before i feel it start to rub against something, i have not driven this car yet this is still being built
[/url]
you can see the holes not being aligned here(i unbolted the 4 bolts holding the front of the car to the chassis)
[/url]heres how i have to pull the front to the rear to get them to align just to get the screws in
[/url]and heres about how far left i need to steer before i feel it start to rub against something, i have not driven this car yet this is still being built
[/url]
12-16-2016, 03:20 PM
#4482
It seems more likely you have a bent or faulty milled chassis than it would to have a defective top brace in my opinion that would be more likely if it is infact a fitment issue.
Can you take some measurements of the chassis holes. And you might want to remove the front and rear to get the pan fully exposed to have a better look at.
Can you take some measurements of the chassis holes. And you might want to remove the front and rear to get the pan fully exposed to have a better look at.
12-16-2016, 03:23 PM
#4483
Tech Rookie
It seems more likely you have a bent or faulty milled chassis than it would to have a defective top brace in my opinion that would be more likely if it is infact a fitment issue.
Can you take some measurements of the chassis holes. And you might want to remove the front and rear to get the pan fully exposed to have a better look at.
Can you take some measurements of the chassis holes. And you might want to remove the front and rear to get the pan fully exposed to have a better look at.
12-16-2016, 03:37 PM
#4484
You prolly need to measure it that way as well as from the back holes to the front holes to see if you have square. Also examine the bend in the chassis plate real well and make sure there isn't even the slightest twist to it. It certainly shouldn't be as tight to the point of binding as you're explaining so it's going to be a process of elimination unfortunately.
12-16-2016, 03:57 PM
#4485
Tech Rookie
You prolly need to measure it that way as well as from the back holes to the front holes to see if you have square. Also examine the bend in the chassis plate real well and make sure there isn't even the slightest twist to it. It certainly shouldn't be as tight to the point of binding as you're explaining so it's going to be a process of elimination unfortunately.