Norse

iTrader: (43)

If you want fix the possible issue of the ball cups flexing in the heat, just swap out to longer turnbuckles as that does the trick. Plus Yokomo will be releasing new ball cups. I think the will look the same but made out of a different material. Not positive however the standard ball cups are nice and tight and smooth as silk.

On the longer turnbuckles I have picked up 60mm titanium Schmacher's. One could go longer but I think the extra 8mm will work perfa.

Scott R

iTrader: (49)

You can buy Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles in pairs in specific lengths too

scoobyrs25

iTrader: (1)

Love the Lunsford Superduty!

Norse

iTrader: (43)

You are correct my friend. I just mentioned the titanium Shumacher turnbuckles as the have their purple tinted titanium turnbuckles at 53mm and 60mm for $8 per pair. Super great deal.

brew99

iTrader: (6)

What are some optional slipper pads to use? Any aftermarket ones that don't gloss over?

Norse

iTrader: (43)

MCKUNE they are listed for Highbite but they work on all conditions and last for the longest of time. If you run lower bite I would throw in Yokes triple slipper as it is awesome.

Try RCSHOX as they make GiaoDisic pads that last for ever and may make some for Yok. AE pads are the same size thus the may make them.

Until then little sand the glaze of using fine grit sandpaper. Wipe off with a clean paper towel. If your slipper is to loose you will glaze the pads really quickly.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Brew,

RCSHOX does make their Gerodisic slipper pads for AE VTS and AE standard shaped pads, thus the will directly fit your YZ4. Email RCSHOX and he will tell you what will work the best for your needs.

John Myall

I use the McKune pads in mine ever since I had the kit ones overheat, no problems since

brew99

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Norse, I'm gonna order a set of the McKune

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Hey Jonny,

Do you have any experience running your YZ4 with McKune pads on low bite conditions? If so what are your thoughts?

From experience having RC Shox Garodisc pads per my triad slipper in mySC6 they last for an internity, and their performance is perfa on low to high bite and everything in between. I have installed the triple slipper in myYZ4 with using theYok pads which has worked really well, however I am going to upgrade the pads. Was planning on putting Garodisk pads in but I may try the MCkune instead.

John Myall

I guess the closest to your low bite, would be on very wet grass. The pads worked fine, certainly didn't feel they were causing me any issues in that run.

Normally, I run on very high bite astro turf & to be honest, the kits pads felt OK, but in one run, they overheated, which caused all sorts of problems

rythby

I am going to order the aluminum rear blocks and I was wondering what the default degrees of rear toe and anti squat are on the car. I want to start at stock and tune from there .I ordered the bars that use the standard a arms . Tuning for medium bite smooth clay

Norse

iTrader: (43)

I believe default setting per rear toe in is 3.0 degrees or 3.5 degrees. Default anti-squat per the rear I believe is -2 degrees, however running low bite dirt this wheeler loves 0 degrees of ant-squat with higher rol center per the rear hanger inserts. Rear front hanger inserts arrow pointing down Rear rear hanger inserts 4-H2 down with 0-H2 up.

The newest aluminum rear hubs are awesome! I run them with the standard kit S4 rear a-arms and the 66.5mm rear CVDs, and 5mm rear hexes or the kits standard 6mm hexes. Run the rear hanger inserts as listed above rear front hanger inserts arrow up, rear rear hanger inserts 0-H2 up 4-H2 down. Rear camber block far inner hole 2mm shim, thus the he newest rear hubs put a 2.5mm shim under ball stud in the most forward hole. OH! Put the thin aluminum black hanger shim on top of the rear rear hanger, thus between the rear rear hanger and the rear camber block.
The F5+1 front flat a-arms are great. Bullet proof! The wider front stance is a big plus in my opinion. If you notice the front hanger inserts and arms have a that forward and back movement just install either .7mm to 1mm shims between the the left and right front hanger inserts and front hinge pin ( basically shim on the front inner a arm hinge pins thus place between the inserts and front aluminum hinge pin brace. This totally gets ride of the inserts moving back and forth, hence the front hanger inserts will last a very long time.

I would hit up ShapeWays and order the new front bumper/skid front diff cover from BRC. Great custom upgrade as it is a tad thicker and secures to the bottom of the front aluminum a arm hanger via 4 screws instead of just 2. Thus seals the front gear box solid and secures the front hinge pin brace in place better. Put a tad bit of grease or heavy diff oil around the inner bumper/skid frame as this really seals things up when you screw down the skid/bumper to the front hanger. I do this on my gear boxes as well, thus when you put the two halves together is seals the gear boxes tight. I also run a tad bit of grease or diff fluid within gear boxes bearing pockets and on the inner part of the out drive bearings and top shaft bearings. If you want to help prevent dust and debri from getting into your bearings brush on a coat of DRY Gear Fluid.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Thanks Jonny, another fella I know whom runs on very high bite just told me the are sweet on all types of conditions.

rythby

I bought the sway bar kit today and I noticed it doesn't fit. The ball cups fall right off of the studs in the arms ??????what's up with that?