tdford

iTrader: (41)

You haven't mentioned sway bars so I'm assuming you don't have them. I've always had sway bars with 1/8 e-buggy and my old SC10 4x4. This thing has so much body roll I felt they were a must. Since adding them to mine I feel it has tightened things up pretty well.

Skeeter2

iTrader: (20)

Available March 2016

Aluminum Steering Blocks, Caster Blocks, Rear Hubs, & Steering Set

Alan_r

Ha ha, damn Skeeter beat me to it! Lol

FT parts......it's good to see AE is supporting this platform with race parts. Now it only the aftermarket would step in with a 4mm thick 7075 center chassis with plastic ears on the outside like 1/8 scale buggies.

I've been running this truck this week and I have to say, with the upgrades done over the last few months, the truck is a tank. It runs and handles nothing like the original one. However, I'm just about finished putting together a none stock one with all my leftover parts. I hit up DollarHobbies to buy some missing pieces. Super cheap there. I'm curious to run them back to back with my SC10 FT.

The sway bars added something I'm not sure I needed to my setup. I think I'm going to remove the front bar first and see if I like it better. It feels like I lost to much weight transfer for the type of track I'm running on. Smooth tracks benifit from stiff suspension, rougher tracks need a compliant suspension. AR

Scott_J

Sorry, I do have F & R sway bars installed. I forgot. Except for the motor/ESC, I think I have upgraded everything that can be. I run three very different tracks, but the main one is hard packed clay 1/8th scale with moderate jumps and almost every turn is 180 degrees. The problem right now is that I HAVE to hit the corner entry perfectly to make the turn, and the bumpy straight can cause spin-outs if I lose an ounce of concentration.

I'm hoping softer springs and lighter rear shock oil will help. Now I'm deciding on the Tekin HD 4600 or the Hobbywing 3656 4000. $85 vs. $355 (I can run the stock ESC with the Hobbywing).

The other tracks are either loose clay with mondo jumps, or the tight carpet track with small doubles. The latter is more of a 1/10th buggy track, but when it rains it's my only choice.

truck driver

Have you tried running different tires front and rear?
Maybe try a j-concepts barcode rear and double d front combo which will make the car a lot more consistent/stable

Cuebulon

awesome!! I do like seeing it being supported. Although the prices currently listed scare me quite a bit. The Integy team really did step up their game with this model too, nonetheless I cant wait!

tdford

iTrader: (41)

Ok, well if your having an issue turning and spinning out in the straights, it sounds more like a diff issue. If you posted your diff setup I don't recall it. Since this doesn't have a center diff, your stuck with the slipper clutch. Are your pads worn? It probably needs tightened regardless. You need to get power to the front and let it pull the truck around. If you're spinning out in a 4x4 then you have too much power going to the rear.

Alan_r

That's kind of what I was thinking too. I was having an issue with the rear end coming out to easily when getting on power after landing a jump. The suspension was right, started playing with the rear end diff fluid and corrected it. If one rear wheel is offloaded and the fluid is to light, it will diff out and cause a spin. That's one of the things I didn't like about this truck: lack of a center diff really makes front/rear power bias difficult to tune. Hell, my Redcat/HSP/Turnigy cars come with fluid filled center diffs. ???? I wonder if an RCShockz diff from the SC10 could be fitted. I think we've concluded that the slipper hub is the same diameter. I've got one still on the bag that I never used. I'll check it out. They still sell that diff so this might be an answer. Thoughts?

Scott_J

I changed from 30k/10k to 20k/7k fluid and it started to turn, but also started to spin out at times. I softened the rear damping, so I'll see if that helps Saturday.

I have experimented extensively in the tire/wheel offset department. It depends on the track I'm at, but one works best with Holeshot M4 on Proline 2741 wheels (wider offset), the other Blockade M3 on F11.

Has anyone gone further with the metal SC10 spur gear swap in the ProSC? If so, which spur/pinion set equals the stock ratio?

Alan_r

The issue I ran in to was that the ProSC slipper hubs and slipper pads are smaller than the SC10. I wasn't happy with half the slipper pad being exposed to the elements and it didn't allow then proper tension to be spread out over the pad. It would push the edges up and try to slip on the spur side. Being that the Pro has a proprietary spur gear, a guy on REgroups volunteered to start manufacturing steel spurs for this platform to market. He's going to send me a test gear to try out once it's made. I'm still waiting to receive it but it shouldn't be to much longer. A steel spur will definitely go a long way in helping the durability of this truck for many people it seems. I'll update the thread with the results and how to get one information once I get it and test it out.AR

BTW: I do use the SC10 High Torque slipper pads, cut down to size. The grip better and allowed for the slipper to work better, without being completely locked down as per the manual setting.

tdford

iTrader: (41)

I'm running 30k/3k, haven't touched the slipper yet.

So the slipper is tightened down from the factory?

Alan_r

The factory setting calls for 3.5-4 mm of thread showing past the slipper nut. I've never been able to get more than about 3.2mm with the stock slipper pad, so I'm assuming that's pretty much locked down.

Scott_J

Yeah, the 4mm setting is definitely locked down. That's how mine stays, since I need the front to pull as much as possible.

One of my constant problems is the screws for the bottom shock mounts pulling out. Before I realize what's happened, the shock shaft bends and the bottom eyelet breaks. The jumps at one of the local tracks are so huge, I couldn't make it two laps without this happening. I just drilled the arms and installed 3mm x 40mm cap screws with lock nuts to mount the bottom of the shocks.

On another note: I drove a friend's Losi RTR and loved it. It went everywhere I told it, turned with authority and accuracy, flew perfectly, and is much more fun to drive. He's not a tuner, so it's basically box-stock, too. I really bought the wrong truck. But a week from today, I'm ordering a Tekno and moving all of my electronics, wheels, tires, etc. over to it. I'll be selling the ProSC to someone I don't like. I build and tune real high-performance cars for a living, I understand what affects what and how, but the ProSC makes me look like a window-licker on the track. When driving the Losi, the owner said, "Wow," out loud after only my second lap with his truck - I was in the groove on every turn and nailed every jump. My brand loyalty, based on the RC10, caused me a lot of frustration and cost me a lot of wasted money. If you like your ProSC, great, enjoy it. But if you are frustrated like me, cut bait. Get something that is fun. If you want to be sure, drive someone's Losi or Tekno.

Tomorrow is my last track day with this thing - just because I enjoy being at the track - so, thanks for your input, gentlemen, and good luck.

ProSCnoob

Installed the new 1256tg and was able to turn! Ran through 2 packs and then she shut down. Thought maybe a motor wire came loose so opened it up and everything looked great. Steering worked great but no throttle forward or reverse.

Checked the battery pack and installed a new one. No issue there.

Reset the ESC and recalibrated it. Still no luck.

Called Associated and they think the ESC is toast. Tried putting a voltmeter across the ABC wires coming out of the ESC and nothing happens with throttle commands.

Now I'm trying to have Associated send me a new ESC but the process is a bit of a pain. They want me to send them the broken one but I'm insisting they pay for postage and send me the new one first which is what support said they would do for me originally.

Hopefully I have this swapped out and I'm ready to go.

I'd love to pass this one off to my nephew and then start on my 410 build. maybe at some point but for now I'll stick with this one.

Oh yeah. One more thing. What do you do when your tires get water logged? Am I supposed to remove them and let the foam dry out? They are causing huge wobbles when it's running.

Thanks again all.

doachs

ProSCnoob, sounds like you have been running in some water lately? Just last week I was having a very similar problem. It started out intermittent and then eventually failed completely just as you describe. I could steer just fine but no power to the motor. The led on the speed control would even change normally when you hit full speed etc. So I decided to open it up and discovered that it was full of water from running it in the snow a few days earlier. I dried it all out and ran 3 battery packs at the track last night with no issues.