Mugen MBX7R Eco thread!
#1981
Tech Initiate
I'm new to Mugen, bought a 2nd hand MBX7TR nitro, both bevel gears where worn to bits. The guy claimed he had 10 races on it. My Losi 3.0 TE has run a whole year, without any wear. Is it normal for MUGEN?????
#1983
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I was having problems like that. Check the "mbx7tr eco" thread!
I had problems with the gears immediately, the day I built the thing. I took it out and ran it, and immediately had gear noise. I thought it was an issue with shimming the diffs, but I couldn't fix it. Eventually I decided to run it as is, because I couldn't find an obvious problem. I ran it as is until the inner input shaft bearing self-destructed, which is when I found the mangled gears in my previous posts on the truggy thread.
The oil was thick and black--I thought it was just metal shavings. But as I kept troubleshooting, I figured out that I was getting dirt inside the bulkhead.
I think I had 3 issues in my situation.
First issue was slop on the input gear--it should be pressed firmly toward the drive shaft when securing so there is no slop. If the input shaft/pinion is able to slide in toward the diff, it'll damage itself and the ring gear. (This is a truggy specific problem--the gears for truggy are cut differently from the buggy.)
Second, I think there is some break-in that needs to happen. The replacement gears I bought did not mesh perfectly when new. So some gear noise should be expected for the first several packs.
Third, I was getting dirt/dust in the rear diff. I think this was the main cause of my problems. The front has always been fine, but the rear was a problem. The bulkhead wasn't sealing to the chassis properly. I fixed this by using an old set of bulkheads, which I got along with an ebay parts lot.
Now that I know the bulkheads were a problem, I think I can sand them flat. To sand them, I would get a piece of glass/mirror and some wet-dry sand paper. Put the sand paper on the glass, get it wet, and rub the bulkhead across the paper. Of course securely fasten the two halves together! if the paper scuffs the entire bottom, they're flat. Any spot that doesn't get scuffed is a high point.
And to replace the gears, go to hobbypartz.com...they can take some of the pain out of replacing these gears. They still aren't cheap, but you'll save some cash.
#1984
hey
i have the m spec version of the buggy but the 4s battery way bigger than the tray and has stuff all room to fit the esc and battery.
i have had to velcro the battery to the tray seems a pain that its designed for 2s battery anyone found a soulotion?
i have the m spec version of the buggy but the 4s battery way bigger than the tray and has stuff all room to fit the esc and battery.
i have had to velcro the battery to the tray seems a pain that its designed for 2s battery anyone found a soulotion?
#1986
Even the SMC 6700 4S Hardcase are fitting perfectly fine. Not sure what the problem is.
#1987
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
Hey guys a few questions that came up while building my buggy.
1. It seemed strange that there was no grease called for between the large conical gear and the bevel gear inside the diff. case. Do you guys typically lube this in any way?
2. On the other hand, I thought it was strange that the instructions did call for grease to be applied to the ends of the CVD shafts that contact the differential outdrives. On my first drive those immediately got caked with clay. Seems to me that they wear caused by that caked on buildup would be bad? What do you think?
3. Do you guys run the shock boots on your car? They seem to be restrictive and could also trap dirt/grime that could lead to premature wear.
Thanks for your help!
1. It seemed strange that there was no grease called for between the large conical gear and the bevel gear inside the diff. case. Do you guys typically lube this in any way?
2. On the other hand, I thought it was strange that the instructions did call for grease to be applied to the ends of the CVD shafts that contact the differential outdrives. On my first drive those immediately got caked with clay. Seems to me that they wear caused by that caked on buildup would be bad? What do you think?
3. Do you guys run the shock boots on your car? They seem to be restrictive and could also trap dirt/grime that could lead to premature wear.
Thanks for your help!
2. We have found that applying grease to these overwhelmingly reduces the wear on the outdrives themselves. Good outdrives means you only have to replace the driveshaft pins every so often.
3. We always run the boots. Without them, you will get more dirt in your shock bodies through the bottom seals.
#1988
Tech Initiate
Can mugen and associated gearboxes bolt onto each other's chassis? Are the bolt patterns the same?
#1989
anyone know what the benefit is of running a clutch bell instead of the standard pinions?? Seen a few running this setup
#1991
#1993
Tech Master
#1994
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Last edited by werner sline; 08-18-2017 at 02:27 PM.
#1995