137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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11-17-2015, 01:02 PM
11-17-2015, 01:04 PM
Tech Fanatic
A smooth track = light buggy
A bumpy track = heavy car
yield=
A bumpy track = heavy car
yield=
11-17-2015, 01:45 PM
My question is that the minimum weight for mod buggy is 1500g. I am torn if I should go with the Factory Lite or the Champions Edition? Will I miss having the extra weight of the Champions Edition or would the Factory Lite be a better choice because the car will be closer to the minimum weight?
If you're on a lower traction surface where the car will be doing as much sliding as rolling, a heavier car may produce enough traction to benefit your lap times.
The trade off with more weight, is of course a more lethargic car that doesn't accelerate, brake, or change direction as fast.
Sorry guys, but this is total non-sense. How much your buggy weighs is a VERY important piece of the tuning puzzle when you're dialing in your car's setup, REGARDLESS of whether you're running a faster motor, or a slower motor.
Some people want less traction and a car that is very aggressive feeling that can change direction very quickly. Some people like a heavier car that is super easy to drive, way more forgiving, with a lot of traction. And some people (like me) like my car somewhere in the middle. I run my car at ~1570, because I prefer to have a car that generates more mechanical traction, that is slightly easier to drive. I then dial out the car's tendency to traction roll through roll resistance changes.
The light car's chassis DOES give more flex, but the kit in general is also about bringing the overall weight of the car down. The original kit is pretty heavy, which required you run a bunch of light weight parts even to get the car down into the mid 1500s. The light kit gets you a lot closer without having to spend extra money.
11-17-2015, 01:49 PM
Thanks for the replies. Yes I've thought about my desire to remove the slop at this point. Due to the position of the variability the movement is amplified by the time the steering is affected. Am determined to minimise as much as achievable.
I have ordered the exotek AE aluminum servo arm. As it has a clamping attachment it will be easier to lockdown. I really like the fact that it is designed with the exact dimensions of the stock arms. My OCD in me doesn't like having to add subtrim. This servo arm is 4mm shorter than the one I'm using. Fingers crossed for 0 subtrim.
In regards to the jconcepts servo mount, I decided against picking one up. I thought about it and will replace the washers with star lock washers. Even though I doubt the servo moves often ( really big hits excluded) the star washers will assist in locking the servo in place. The stock servo mounts are more than acceptable. Also don't want to add any more weight to the front of the vehicle as traction can be a bit low at times in Oz.
I have ordered the exotek AE aluminum servo arm. As it has a clamping attachment it will be easier to lockdown. I really like the fact that it is designed with the exact dimensions of the stock arms. My OCD in me doesn't like having to add subtrim. This servo arm is 4mm shorter than the one I'm using. Fingers crossed for 0 subtrim.
In regards to the jconcepts servo mount, I decided against picking one up. I thought about it and will replace the washers with star lock washers. Even though I doubt the servo moves often ( really big hits excluded) the star washers will assist in locking the servo in place. The stock servo mounts are more than acceptable. Also don't want to add any more weight to the front of the vehicle as traction can be a bit low at times in Oz.
Never heard of someone using a locking washer on the servo. Just some blue locktight and the right length screw works unless you are crashing a lot. Could have just been loose from the start. Better safe than sorry though.
11-17-2015, 02:00 PM
Tech Fanatic
You want to run whatever overall weight gives you the level of traction you desire at your track. More weight, equals more traction. If you're already on a really high traction surface, having a buggy that is too heavy, can lead to a situation where in order to keep yourself from traction rolling, you have to run the car too low to perform well on jumps.
If you're on a lower traction surface where the car will be doing as much sliding as rolling, a heavier car may produce enough traction to benefit your lap times.
The trade off with more weight, is of course a more lethargic car that doesn't accelerate, brake, or change direction as fast.
Sorry guys, but this is total non-sense. How much your buggy weighs is a VERY important piece of the tuning puzzle when you're dialing in your car's setup, REGARDLESS of whether you're running a faster motor, or a slower motor.
Some people want less traction and a car that is very aggressive feeling that can change direction very quickly. Some people like a heavier car that is super easy to drive, way more forgiving, with a lot of traction. And some people (like me) like my car somewhere in the middle. I run my car at ~1570, because I prefer to have a car that generates more mechanical traction, that is slightly easier to drive. I then dial out the car's tendency to traction roll through roll resistance changes.
The light car's chassis DOES give more flex, but the kit in general is also about bringing the overall weight of the car down. The original kit is pretty heavy, which required you run a bunch of light weight parts even to get the car down into the mid 1500s. The light kit gets you a lot closer without having to spend extra money.
If you're on a lower traction surface where the car will be doing as much sliding as rolling, a heavier car may produce enough traction to benefit your lap times.
The trade off with more weight, is of course a more lethargic car that doesn't accelerate, brake, or change direction as fast.
Sorry guys, but this is total non-sense. How much your buggy weighs is a VERY important piece of the tuning puzzle when you're dialing in your car's setup, REGARDLESS of whether you're running a faster motor, or a slower motor.
Some people want less traction and a car that is very aggressive feeling that can change direction very quickly. Some people like a heavier car that is super easy to drive, way more forgiving, with a lot of traction. And some people (like me) like my car somewhere in the middle. I run my car at ~1570, because I prefer to have a car that generates more mechanical traction, that is slightly easier to drive. I then dial out the car's tendency to traction roll through roll resistance changes.
The light car's chassis DOES give more flex, but the kit in general is also about bringing the overall weight of the car down. The original kit is pretty heavy, which required you run a bunch of light weight parts even to get the car down into the mid 1500s. The light kit gets you a lot closer without having to spend extra money.
I won't repeat myself when I know the facts
11-17-2015, 02:51 PM
Who has run the +4 mount on carpet. How much of a difference does it actually make?
11-17-2015, 03:24 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
11-17-2015, 04:05 PM
how long is a set of shock springs good for, 10 track days, 100 track days, forever?
11-17-2015, 04:08 PM
11-17-2015, 04:19 PM
I still believe that the Lite kit out of the box is near perfect both from the perspective of weight and set up. Unless you run on SRS kind of clay or high grip carpet a box set up Lite is money right out of the box with average electronics. You other guys that are searching for magic, it doesn't exist. Unless your running the worlds a little slop is fine as long as everything operates smoothly and is bind free. Just listening to some of you guys for a few minutes could ruin a guys raceday before he even leaves the house. This is not NASCAR. Most of us need practice not stuff. For most of us, the guys that consistently win at our local track could probably do it with our cars....I know for sure that's true for me. My cars are in excellent shape but I don't rebuild them every week. It depends on the car but I probably go through each car every few months but I change shock oil and rebuild diffs as necessary which means that if a diff is smooth and the outdrives are ok it could last indefinitely......6 months maybe in a buggy.
RC Racing is supposed to be fun. Literally, 1 in a million can make living at it. Don't spoil it by taking the fun out of it.
RC Racing is supposed to be fun. Literally, 1 in a million can make living at it. Don't spoil it by taking the fun out of it.
11-17-2015, 04:29 PM
11-17-2015, 05:02 PM
It's amazing how good out of the box today's kits are getting. At least the American stuff is all geared towards high bite indoor tracks, which is what I run on locally.
11-17-2015, 05:16 PM
Tech Fanatic
You're fine that's how it was told to me so except it. Most top level or even mediocre enthusiasts don't just give/loan you their r/c model to hardcore thrash you would have to ask
11-17-2015, 05:28 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
They will fatigue over time. The constant compression will fatigue the wire over time. Now how quick that happens, that's up for debate. I'm sure there's an Internet hero that will give you some exact answer. I play it by ear and replace springs depending on how much I run, but I'll replace mine once or twice a year, depending on how much I'm using any particular set.
11-17-2015, 05:39 PM
