Fuzzchop

iTrader: (18)

[QUOTE=Dino_D;13638895]7-5 - pushes more on entry, slides consistent in mid corner, pushes on exit.
Going to try that

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Thinner front oil makes the nose less aggressive

socal23

iTrader: (112)

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rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

You want to follow the big dex410 thread, much more info there, I've been trying to make this thread die for a while to keep all the good info together

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Ditto rcjunky1. Mods need to Merge these two threads already.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

you can't really merge 29 pages with 1000+ easily, should be locked and maybe linked on the first page of the dex410 thead

NewbieRacer30

iTrader: (1)

should i wait a couple months? see if anything comes out before buying v4? :/

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

I wouldn't be concerned with it. The v4 is about a year old and I don't know what they'd change. A shorty pack layout a more room for electronics would be nice but is otherwise an amazing car

yenko66

iTrader: (3)

I will admit that I'm not a good driver but every time I take this car out I break it. I have grown tired of buying replacement parts only to break the car the next time I take it out. I have decided that this is not the car I want to run in this class anymore I will be putting it on the for sale forums tonight keep an eye out for it if it if you're interested in a Durango DEX410 version 4. I will be selling the car as it sits with a broken shock tower and front tower supports.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Got news for you yenko66,

If you break this car every time out it's you who is causing it and no matter what wheeler you get you will break it just as frequently.
We had this older gentleman who got into the hobby about 3 months ago and then visited the track and decided to try his hand at racing but he just runs 4WD SC and he is a hack and a half. I mean he only knows one speed and it's full throttle all the time no matter what. Turn marshaling a race he's in means every turn marshal will have to put his car back on the track every singe lap. And then you have to be cautious because he'll begin punching it while the truck is in your hands and the minute you drop it on the track it just snaps to either side and crashes again. The guy is not very bright it seems.

I'm not comparing your wits to his, just stating that no matter what, some people need to learn how to asses the reasons behind their lack of success and sometimes continuous and constant breaking of parts and and vehicles. The most difficult concept to adopt into one's mentality is Slow is Fast. 4WD Mod Buggy is likely the most brutally powerful class in all of RC and they take a pounding. Before assuming it's the car and giving up, you might want to take stock of what you can do differently in how you approach running laps.

I think you might want to try a little experiment to rule out if it's the car… Have one of the local top guys run it all out hard and see how the car does. I'm willing to bet it will hold up fine and will be incredibly fast.

One other thing to consider is Tire Choice because if it's not right you will be struggling no matter what. Get that right and cars ride along tracks as if glued to the surface.

Barge

How many times is every? I had some stuff break the first couple times out but ever since then its been pretty durable. I did end up putting on an aluminum front shock tower although I've got a CF one with shock protectors ready to go back on.

When I started I was running only 60% punch with the ESC limiting to 80% power. I've just now increased it a little bit and its a handful. The big thing is that mistakes can be very costly with these cars because they have so much traction and so much power.

I will say ive had some fairly rough crashes and was expecting breaks and came out unscathed.

Just stick with it, crank the power way down and get used to what beasts these cars are.

yenko66

iTrader: (3)

Alright so I'm not such a bad driver I actually normally qualify first for the b main and most the time I'm in the low side of the a main. I race 2wd buggy dex210 , 2wd sct desc210, and ebuggy with an older Losi 2.0 . I don't have any problems with any I'd these cars breaking. I have the same esc and motor size in all of my 1/10 scale stuff. I normally run entire qualifiers and mains without being marshalled but just once or twice.

I have broken both front and rear arms, front hubs, rear wing mounts which are not just wing mounts, broken a arm pins, now I have broken the front shock tower and the supports. Not to mention that if I miss the triple and case the landing the chassis flexes and the front drive shaft comes out of the center diff. No other car at my local track has this problem the Losi cars that dominate the class just drive away after they case the triple.

I bought this car when they where first released and I have spent more time fixing it then I have driving it. Been to around 8 to10 races and there has been carnage after every one

yenko66

iTrader: (3)

OK let me do this again since I'm at a real computer now and don't have to try and post from my phone..

When I say I'm not a good driver... I just mean that I'm not a sponsored factory level driver. I'm never going to win events at a national level. Local is a different story.. I usually qualify for top of the B main or bottom of the A and that is about where I finish. That is in a 20 to 30 car field.

I'm smooth and consistant,, not fast,, I run laps that don't require marshalling and usually do well as a result. I understand throttle control and I do know when I need to cut the power down. I race a 2wd Buggy DEX210 original, 2wd SCT DESC210R, and Ebuggy with an older Losi 2.0. All of the previous cars mentioned I can drive without breaking anything or wrecking,

I also race 1/18 scale Associated 18B2 on an off road carpet track and I usually qualify and finish top three in the A every week out of 18 in the class.

I have been driving RC vehicles since back when the Associated RC10 was new to the game.

So now that I have cleared up that.. onto the DEX410V4.

I was excited to get my car when the first batch came out and I got it built without having a track to go run at. When spring and summer hit I race real cars and RC is a Winter hobby. Now that Winter is back so am I .

So far this winter I have broken Both front arms (different sessions) one rear arm, Wing mount (Rear bulkhead), one front suspension pin (Yes the pin not the arm) Now I have broken the front shock tower and the bulkhead supports that hold it up. Not to mention I have a problem when jumping the triple if I don't make it and case the jump the chassis flexes and the front drive shaft comes out of center diff. Not one of the other 20 cars entered last weekend had this problem,, Losi's, Associated' Kyosho' Team C' I have the only Durango. And yes I watched them case the jump as well. The Durango is the only current car I can find made that the front diff is not tied to the center diff in some way.

I'm willing to listen and take some advice from you guys that run these and do well with them but My patients for this model is wearing thin.

As you can tell from my list of vehicles I support Durango, Currently have been considering a Durango TC for a new local track that is opening...

platgof

iTrader: (4)

These cars are a real pain at times, but in all fairness I have seen other makes in this class have a lot of issues as well. I have seen axles fall out of 22-4's and the owner got rid of it and got Xrays. They all have problems. Your best bet is they change the track. It is the roll of the dice on who finishes at times.

Dino_D

You stated that you race in winter (indoors I assume) so its a bit colder than room temp. First of all, the Type B arms are made of harder materials and are more brittle in the cold than the stock v3 arms. Secondly, have you tried boiling the arms to give it more flex. Guys who have boiled them for about 5-10 mins have less issues - included myself.

I will be the first to admit the front shock tower is weak, and it generally snaps at where the shocks mount at the top. You can either use HPI Vorza Shock protectors. It will help you save a few front shock towers. See link.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/13573019-post16921.html

As for your front center universal poping out. Have you ensured that all your screws on the chassis are tight? Try flexing your car currently, then check the whole car.
Screws mounting the bulkhead. Screws securing the chassis brace and screws securing the steering posts onto the brace, and screws attaching the brace to the front bulkhead. I can almost bet you either a few screws have came lose causing the front of the chassis to flex thus making the universal pop out.

Also try using slightly heavier shock oil if you are bottoming out after a jump.