66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
10-01-2017, 06:12 PM
How are you guys getting this buggy with the stock chassis to get more grip of corners on power on a hardpacked loose track ? I got the right tires but i have to drive it so much like a touring car with the throttle point and shoot driving . I'm guessing moving the Rear arm spacers towards , the back make the wheelbase longer or 10k in the Front diff like 10/60/5 or unscrew the shock rod ends on the Rear more droop ?
I already turned down the expo on the throttle a good bit certainly helps but not enough .
I already turned down the expo on the throttle a good bit certainly helps but not enough .
10-01-2017, 07:52 PM
whats your full setup?
10-01-2017, 08:05 PM
I figured out one thing I had a loose Rear camber link on one side on the camber plate and the camber link ends were not free enough so I wiggle them with needle nose.
Setup its 7/60/5 diffs, 35w F/32.5 R with 3 hole 1.3 pistons and shocks down all the way down Front and ride height at 22mm with a Black Rear sway bar . Tires were Impacts soft/SS rears than Holeshots Front and Impacts Rear.
Last edited by tc5 man; 10-01-2017 at 08:16 PM.
10-02-2017, 06:50 AM
Take the following as "in general" as I am running exotek and schelle (graphite) chassis between 2 different vehicles but it works well on both:
I ran the 3 x 1.3 hole pistons all around myself, the VRP ones. I liked the pack they gave off of jumps but for our conditions it was too rough and loose at points for it. I ended up going to what my daughter was using, 2 x 1.6 and 2 x 1.7 front to rear and and it calmed the vehicle down and gave it more grip. from what i recall I am running 450cst up front and 350cst rear. That or 50cst down. Its PT racing oils so there are some conversion charts out there too.
I also run gold spring up front and the blue rear spring. Yellow up front gave it a bit too much aggressive feel. going to blue instead of what I think was yellow help give the vehicle a bit better planted feel too.
I also have the shocks leaned over on the rear tower a lot for our conditions, helps a lot.
How do you like the AKA impact tires?
I ran the 3 x 1.3 hole pistons all around myself, the VRP ones. I liked the pack they gave off of jumps but for our conditions it was too rough and loose at points for it. I ended up going to what my daughter was using, 2 x 1.6 and 2 x 1.7 front to rear and and it calmed the vehicle down and gave it more grip. from what i recall I am running 450cst up front and 350cst rear. That or 50cst down. Its PT racing oils so there are some conversion charts out there too.
I also run gold spring up front and the blue rear spring. Yellow up front gave it a bit too much aggressive feel. going to blue instead of what I think was yellow help give the vehicle a bit better planted feel too.
I also have the shocks leaned over on the rear tower a lot for our conditions, helps a lot.
How do you like the AKA impact tires?
10-02-2017, 11:09 AM
Take the following as "in general" as I am running exotek and schelle (graphite) chassis between 2 different vehicles but it works well on both:
I ran the 3 x 1.3 hole pistons all around myself, the VRP ones. I liked the pack they gave off of jumps but for our conditions it was too rough and loose at points for it. I ended up going to what my daughter was using, 2 x 1.6 and 2 x 1.7 front to rear and and it calmed the vehicle down and gave it more grip. from what i recall I am running 450cst up front and 350cst rear. That or 50cst down. Its PT racing oils so there are some conversion charts out there too.
I also run gold spring up front and the blue rear spring. Yellow up front gave it a bit too much aggressive feel. going to blue instead of what I think was yellow help give the vehicle a bit better planted feel too.
I also have the shocks leaned over on the rear tower a lot for our conditions, helps a lot.
How do you like the AKA impact tires?
I ran the 3 x 1.3 hole pistons all around myself, the VRP ones. I liked the pack they gave off of jumps but for our conditions it was too rough and loose at points for it. I ended up going to what my daughter was using, 2 x 1.6 and 2 x 1.7 front to rear and and it calmed the vehicle down and gave it more grip. from what i recall I am running 450cst up front and 350cst rear. That or 50cst down. Its PT racing oils so there are some conversion charts out there too.
I also run gold spring up front and the blue rear spring. Yellow up front gave it a bit too much aggressive feel. going to blue instead of what I think was yellow help give the vehicle a bit better planted feel too.
I also have the shocks leaned over on the rear tower a lot for our conditions, helps a lot.
How do you like the AKA impact tires?
I could try the Blue Rear springs again the stock front springs though i had a issue when i used the brakes even turned down it would slam down to much and felt like it stop so i been using the Red ones .
I have tried moving down a hole on the Rear tower at a even slicker track it worked better think I had the Blue spring on so it wasn't to soft.
The Impacts at least on the Rear are not bad up Front though in certain conditions are good than there not but found the Holeshots up Front with the Impact Rear made it easier to drive a little more understeer.
Last edited by tc5 man; 10-02-2017 at 01:13 PM.
10-02-2017, 01:08 PM
i also like the crimefigher/bowfighter combo on dirt.
that reminds me i have some dirt tires i need to sell.
that reminds me i have some dirt tires i need to sell.
10-02-2017, 02:31 PM
10-03-2017, 05:16 PM
That's at nighttime when the moisture steeps into the track but not always sometimes slicker. During the day at least the 1st 2 heats its dry/dusty especially during practice depends on the weather and humity .
Its hardpacked clay pretty sure its mixed though .
10-03-2017, 05:55 PM
https://youtu.be/4PFyXEi60Js
That's at nighttime when the moisture steeps into the track but not always sometimes slicker. During the day at least the 1st 2 heats its dry/dusty especially during practice depends on the weather and humity .
Its hardpacked clay pretty sure its mixed though .
That's at nighttime when the moisture steeps into the track but not always sometimes slicker. During the day at least the 1st 2 heats its dry/dusty especially during practice depends on the weather and humity .
Its hardpacked clay pretty sure its mixed though .
10-03-2017, 05:56 PM
10-03-2017, 06:05 PM
10-03-2017, 06:32 PM
This guide I feel is very helpful!
Xray XB2 - Setup Helper
I also like this guide:
THE Guide ? JQRacing
right now, this setup is what I am using an I am liking:
FRONT
- Front kickup 3 dot FF, 3 dot FR, 9 degree total
- Tower B
- shock second hole from inner most on tower
- Position 1 inner ballstud mount
- 2mm shim under stud
- 1mm shim F/F an 1mm shim F/R for inner hingepin mounts
- position 2 on front a-arm
- 1mm shim top an bottom on front hub
- 0mm for hub steering link shim
- 450cst front shock PT Racing oil
- 2 x 1.6 piston
- Gold spring
- 23.5 shaft length
- Emulsion shock
- Copper sway bar
- 22mm ride height
- -1 camber angle
- 0 degree toe
REAR
- RF 1 dot, RR 3 dot for 2 degree antisquat
- B tower
- Position 2 (or 1 if really loose) on tower
- Position 2 on rear ballstud mount on "tower"
- 1mm shim under stud
- R/F 0.5mm R/R 2mm for 3.5 toe
- Position 4 on rear hub
- position 1 on on rear arm, more traction needed go to position 2
- Position 1 for hub to a-arm
- 300cst rear oil
- 2 x 1.7 piston
- Blue rear spring
- 30mm shock shaft
- 22mm rideheight
- -1 camber angle
- 3.5 toe
- silver rear spring
GENERAL
- SHorty lipo standard location
- Exotek chassis
- Exotek mount
- 2mm in front of rear arms to move them back
- 10K-200K-7K (go with what works for you)
- 1mm shim behind steering rack ball stud
- negative position
We run 13.5 class, an I use a Motiv MC2 motor.
This is an example of what I run on to give you an idea of how it can get:
and this is a larger one:
First track is actually looser than the second
Xray XB2 - Setup Helper
I also like this guide:
THE Guide ? JQRacing
right now, this setup is what I am using an I am liking:
FRONT
- Front kickup 3 dot FF, 3 dot FR, 9 degree total
- Tower B
- shock second hole from inner most on tower
- Position 1 inner ballstud mount
- 2mm shim under stud
- 1mm shim F/F an 1mm shim F/R for inner hingepin mounts
- position 2 on front a-arm
- 1mm shim top an bottom on front hub
- 0mm for hub steering link shim
- 450cst front shock PT Racing oil
- 2 x 1.6 piston
- Gold spring
- 23.5 shaft length
- Emulsion shock
- Copper sway bar
- 22mm ride height
- -1 camber angle
- 0 degree toe
REAR
- RF 1 dot, RR 3 dot for 2 degree antisquat
- B tower
- Position 2 (or 1 if really loose) on tower
- Position 2 on rear ballstud mount on "tower"
- 1mm shim under stud
- R/F 0.5mm R/R 2mm for 3.5 toe
- Position 4 on rear hub
- position 1 on on rear arm, more traction needed go to position 2
- Position 1 for hub to a-arm
- 300cst rear oil
- 2 x 1.7 piston
- Blue rear spring
- 30mm shock shaft
- 22mm rideheight
- -1 camber angle
- 3.5 toe
- silver rear spring
GENERAL
- SHorty lipo standard location
- Exotek chassis
- Exotek mount
- 2mm in front of rear arms to move them back
- 10K-200K-7K (go with what works for you)
- 1mm shim behind steering rack ball stud
- negative position
We run 13.5 class, an I use a Motiv MC2 motor.
This is an example of what I run on to give you an idea of how it can get:
| + YouTube Video | |
and this is a larger one:
| + YouTube Video | |
First track is actually looser than the second
10-03-2017, 06:35 PM
10-06-2017, 01:50 PM
Raced the buggy twice. Was being kinda careful. Then decided to start sending it. Made the amain at both events. But there were like 4 heats of 13.5 too. Thinking I might wanna get in on that action. Picked up a new older trackstar 13.5. I dremeled the ears off timing first. Ordered a 6100 shorty to put the smack to it. My trackstar 5.5 seemed to be plenty powerful. Turned down to 90% factory timing. Thinking about setting the amp draw to 6 to 8. And gearing 30/72. Any advice would be great. Timing/amp/gear. Thanks.
10-06-2017, 04:14 PM
Raced the buggy twice. Was being kinda careful. Then decided to start sending it. Made the amain at both events. But there were like 4 heats of 13.5 too. Thinking I might wanna get in on that action. Picked up a new older trackstar 13.5. I dremeled the ears off timing first. Ordered a 6100 shorty to put the smack to it. My trackstar 5.5 seemed to be plenty powerful. Turned down to 90% factory timing. Thinking about setting the amp draw to 6 to 8. And gearing 30/72. Any advice would be great. Timing/amp/gear. Thanks.
Setting a motor to pull a certain amp draw isn't the only thing you are looking for, you are trying to find the timing spot where the motor is most efficient for the load you are putting on it. Until you get it on track, and run the car you are just guessing. Setting the timing off amp draw is just an educated guess.
Also, how was your race time in Mod 4wd compared to the 13.5 4wd class?