Tarimon

Okay, thank you... ;-)

motoclay

iTrader: (3)

I am sooo close to pulling the trigger on one of these and getting ready to go. I have the nitro 3.0 but I want a second class....so couple quick questions:

1) 1900kv on 4s or 1400kv on 6s....no rules on it in my area

2) steel spur or plastic...and gear ratio baseline?

3) what kind of lifespan can I expect to get from BNIB Tekin gear

4) last, what size and C rating battery for up to 15 mains, 7 min quals

RandyJones

iTrader: (26)

1) 1900 on 4S, most tracks only allow up to 4S and is a popular combo

2)I prefer plastic. We run 16/43 with an 1800Kv on 4S

3)Not sure on Tekin stuff. If you do a nice solder job and install, should last a long time I would think.

4)We run the Orion Carbon Pro 90C 6400MaH and that's plenty to run 15 minutes.

Hope this helps!! It's a great car!!

Brian C.

iTrader: (1)

Hey do you guys think it would be a worthy upgrade to go from a E-Converted 3.0 to a regular 3.0 E?

Salkin

I have read in several forums that people thinks the E 3.0 is better than the converted nitro 3.0.

JasonR/C

iTrader: (9)

I can tell you from owning both the dedicated E kit is a night and day difference. Absolutely go for the E kit. Dont convert.

RandyJones

iTrader: (26)

The true E car is better than the converted.

Outtacontrol58

iTrader: (92)

Has anyone had problems with the shock ends coming in threaded? I had it happen twice over the weekend and was wondering if anyone had a fix? I did see that TLR is coming out with the new and improved shock boots but obviously that has no relevance to the shock ends. Thx is guys!

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Are they just pulling out or are they untreading? Are you using the droop screws in the arms?

Got-R/C?

iTrader: (1)

Building mine now and can say that the instructions don't follow along very well at all. Pictures are easy but none of the bag labels are correct and don't show many things.

How is everyone setting up the sway bars?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The kit setup should get you close.

Got-R/C?

iTrader: (1)

Also, my kit didn't come with 5k/5k/3k....only 5k for all diffs. I guess I'll give the standard setup a try first and make changes accordingly if people like 3k in the rear.

I don't know what people are complaining about on fit when assembling? Everything has been great so far. The only thing close to being tight was installing the assembled front end on the chassis where the hing pin brace fits on the chassis. Even the ball joints have been smooth. The upper 5mm rod ends were a hair tight but nothing preventing smooth operation. Am I missing something? Also, the front center dog bone is a little warped but I'm sure it'll straighten out with some high RPM run time...

On to the rear next...

RandyJones

iTrader: (26)

We run 5-7-5 in out diffs. 5 in center will make it easier to drive though.

motoclay

iTrader: (3)

is the weight system necessary for handling purposes or is just to get to legal weight in some events?

RandyJones

iTrader: (26)

Just a tuning option. Some say it gives a little more turn in and more on-power steering.