Casper

iTrader: (34)

Yes the 2.0 come with the "racing springs".

Torque rods are listed as 8/23
Alum top plate are showing stock in Ill so I would assume they would show up in California any day now as well.

If you guys are just looking for replacement plastic ends for the torque rods by these.

http://losi.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=LOSA6044

Purdue Engineer

iTrader: (8)

Hay Ryan or Casper,
Quick question regarding tire. I spun the hex on one of my rims. How do you guys dismount the tires from the rim if you want to save the tire. I have a set of Rattlers (Clay) for indoors that I have to mount on a new rim.

I have heard about, boiling, baking, or acitone. What do you guys prefer and why. How do you guys do it?

Sorry its not specific about the 2.0.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

The short answer will be that they don't.

FWIW - you can acetone tires off wheels fairly easily, however, don't acetone clay compound tires as they will shrink and harden.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

And other compounds swell. Getting tires off the rims and ever expecting them to be the same is very difficult. The best thing you can do for the future is make sure you replace the wheel nuts every 3-4 months...its great insurance for saving those tires.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

That happened to me too. I switched to the JConcepts serrated wheel nuts and problem gone.

I tried baking before, but the tire is never the same. I don't do it anymore.

Purdue Engineer

iTrader: (8)

Yes that's what happened. The plastic came off the nut and I kept using it. The wheel fell off and, why I don't know, but I replaced it with an old one. It fell off again then I started having handling problems. I guess it doesn't work well with three wheel drive.

I guess I'll be buying a new set of tires.

Anyone want to buy three Panther Rattlers in clay with orange inserts on Losi SCTE black rims?

Thanks Guys

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

Using kyosho 4mm locknuts here and they work well. Still looking for a steel serrated lock nut. The alum ones loosen up over time.

charlesandstuff

iTrader: (37)

Hey I have a problem with the system I have in my 2.0 right now.. Its the R10 pro with tekin 4600 sensored and no matter what I change on the esc settings when the truck is at a dead stop or going slow and then I press full throttle the truck kind of barely goes for about a second and then gets the full burst of power that it should have to begin with. Has anyone else had this problem or know how to fix it?

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

I run the same Orion/ tekin setup and no issues here. I would
Check the sensor wire
Check the Solder joints
Rebind the esc

All else fails send the esc back to horizon and they will check it. Takes 2-3 weeks

glock man

Question guys. Im running Hackers setup from TLR's website on my 2.0. I noticed my truck want to nose dive coming off a jump. I do have drag brake in my Orion 160 pro speedo. I think I Have 10 % drag. The truck feels great going into turns and coming of the straight but when I become air born she want to nose dive. Should i move the battery farther back? I really don't want to take my drag brake out. Any of you guys have this problem?

charlesandstuff

iTrader: (37)

If all my solder joints turn out fine and sensor wire is fine then do you think going from the stock 12 gauge wire to thicker 10 gauge wire would help at all?

glock man

I have almost the same problem, except mine will completely cut out for a sec. I bought my truck from a local track. Well the owner's son is a losi driver. I let him drive it to show him it was acting up. It never did act up for him. The only thing I did different was I put in a different battery when he went to test the truck. I have had this problem twice. I'm running a orion pro with 4 pole software, fan, and the new pro tekin 4300 hd. Try a different battery like i did. If you continue to have this problem pm me. I would like to also get to the bottom of this.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

The issue may be the age of your Orion ESC. That esc may have older software which then faults to the sensorless mode. You have to hook it all up with their box and update the software on the esc to their 4 pole software. Then you should be good.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

That is due to the esc and motor and what you are doing with the throttle, not the setup really. When you run drag brake, you HAVE to stay on the throttle or it will nose dive. Throttle and brake are how you manipulate a truck in the air. So you can stay on throttle or you can turn off drag brake.

Also, go to casper-rc.com and get the latest setup, it is even better.

glock man

This is so strange I wonder if we need a BEC? Im new to rc racing and don't know a lot but If someone out there is reading this could a BEC help with our power loss in throttle control?