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Old 04-16-2016, 05:15 PM   #9031
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I recently picked up a SCTE 2.0 kit from a friend and I am having issues with the Proline Flotek body #3355-00 I bought. The front of the body overhangs the front bumper by almost an inch due to how I mounted it. I had to mount it this way because the rear posts would not be in any useable spot if I moved the body back. Proline claims it fits the 2.0 but even the way I have it, none of the factory marks lined up and i had to ream a small hole in the "tube" area of the body so the clip could go through.

Does the RPM bumper for the 2.0 stick out farther so it could perhaps clear the body compared to the stock bumper? I had an RPM bumper on my Slash 4x4 and it was quite a bit longer than the stock one which is why I'm asking. I feel like the body wont last long at all if the front is completely exposed.
Take a look at your body mounting post where it meets the tower. There should be spacers between the tower and mount. You can add or remove them to get some adjustment front to back. When I had a Flo body it did hang over the front a little, but not much. I always had problems mounting the back. Not much room for body clips, they hit the raised mold in the body.

IMO you should mount the body after checking wheel clearance when turned and suspension compressed. Mostly center wheels in the wheel opening. It takes some effort to find the best spot. I have not had much luck using the suggested holes for the SCTE. Use what works best for your truck. After a while the body post get tweaked and might not be in the same location as new parts.

Most SCT bodies only last a few months if you race often. I feel lucky when I get a year out of mine with a few repairs. Drive clean and make it last if you can.
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:34 PM   #9032
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Thanks for the response Thunder Trail.

I cant believe I never thought about removing the spacers to tweak the position a bit. I was more focused on whether or not I could flip the body mount to the other side of the shock tower. For sure I think I will remove spacers. That should limit the overhang almost enough and make it much more viable.

Still, would the rpm front bumper be something worth consider?
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:47 PM   #9033
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Thanks for the response Thunder Trail.

I cant believe I never thought about removing the spacers to tweak the position a bit. I was more focused on whether or not I could flip the body mount to the other side of the shock tower. For sure I think I will remove spacers. That should limit the overhang almost enough and make it much more viable.

Still, would the rpm front bumper be something worth consider?
I have always used the stock bumper up front. I see a few people using the RPM, but I don't think it's an advantage. I get a year or so out of the stock front bumper, but I do keep a spare for that rare crash. Maybe someone who has used it will chime in.

I do use the RPM rear bumper. I through bolted the shock tower to the RPM mount because the stock bumper seems to pull threads out after a couple of months. Did that over a year ago and still using the same rear bumper. It works well for me.
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:28 PM   #9034
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I'm not so much concerned about it being an advantage for durability or performance, just if it sticks out farther forward so it clears the body a bit better.
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Old 04-23-2016, 05:34 PM   #9035
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The big selling point of the "22" shocks is that they are lighter than the stock shocks. I don't get why someone can't post how much lighter they are. I would really like to know.

IMO the MIP converted trucks are quite a bit faster than the SCTE 2.0, because they are lighter. As a result of being light, they do struggle where there is a REALLY big jump (like Motorama). I was thinking of getting the MIP chassis but it is discontinued. Then I considered the "Xtreme" composite chassis. Another possibility is the TRL -3mm chassis and 22 shocks. I'd just like to know how much weight the shocks would save!
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Old 04-23-2016, 05:49 PM   #9036
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I want to say 14grams so 1/2 and oz but that is off memory.

The other major benefit is a much wider range of spring options. They are smoother as well
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Old 04-23-2016, 07:09 PM   #9037
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Casper, I'm in the process of installing the new dogbone center driveshafts. I normally run the Tekno center driveshafts. What performance change can I expect? I'm hoping to have a tighter turning radius in small radius turns. I was noticing my small turn radius was lacking last weekend and I believe it may have been caused by the notch that has formed in my forward facing center diff outdrive. It's my understanding that the new floating dogbone design is supposed to free up the front and center diffs to act more independently? So hopefully that means tighter on throttle steering?
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Old 04-23-2016, 07:20 PM   #9038
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Default King Headz/Xtreme 2.0 SCTE chassis

Anyone have either of these? Any comments on them? I'm thinking of getting one to save some weight. Looks like the Kind Headz has the battery forward like the original SCTE, concerned about it jumping nose-down? Wonder about the weight of the Xtreme chassis, bet it's light! I saw a Xtreme 1.0 chassis break, I'd expect it would do that eventually being carbon.
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Old 04-23-2016, 07:57 PM   #9039
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Quote:
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Casper, I'm in the process of installing the new dogbone center driveshafts. I normally run the Tekno center driveshafts. What performance change can I expect? I'm hoping to have a tighter turning radius in small radius turns. I was noticing my small turn radius was lacking last weekend and I believe it may have been caused by the notch that has formed in my forward facing center diff outdrive. It's my understanding that the new floating dogbone design is supposed to free up the front and center diffs to act more independently? So hopefully that means tighter on throttle steering?
I realize I'm not who you asked, but I can tell you my experience.
At first I hated them. They made my truck feel uncontrollable compared to what it was like with the standard CV types. But I believe this is because they definitely do free up the center diff. I went up on weight to the center diff and changed where my front to rear CG rested with the battery tray. This seemed to help a great deal. Everyone prefers different things, so it's something you are going to have to try in my opinion. But I can tell you your setup will need tweaking to get things familiar again.
I did not notice any huge steering difference, but I can't say it doesn't make a difference without spending a lot more time with them on different setups.
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:28 PM   #9040
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I had the BCE chassis on my old 1.0 SCTE and it was super nice and strong!
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Old 04-23-2016, 10:48 PM   #9041
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bones do help with tight turns. Felt the car rotated off power much better but still had great stability on power. I really liked them for what I run on which is normally indoor tracks.
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Old 04-24-2016, 01:55 PM   #9042
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Thanks for both replies! Guess I'll see what happens next time I drive it at the track. I want to add that I'm using the new dogbones on the 1.0 truck. I obviously had to reverse the bones placements. But I'm getting driveshaft rubbing on my front chassis stiffening bar. I have to trim a little material away to get free movement. So technically, it's NOT a drop in fit on the older truck. But I'm sure I'll be able to make it work. I'll post my final thoughts on this project once I get some track time.
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:24 AM   #9043
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the org. losi scte 1.0 with the battery forward you do not want.

i still race my losi scte 1.0. you want to move the whole battery tray back about 1/4".
you will have to drill new holes.
it handles way better with that adjustment. also a long rear chassis brace.
i use the orig. chassis with battery tray moved back, a long chassis brace
and carbon fiber shock towers. the orig. shock towers bend to easy you want
to upgrade them and it helps keep the chassis a little stiffer.

i also have the bce chassis. it's very stiff. i use it in the winter running indoors.

i like the orig. chassis outdoors it has a little flex in it.
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Old 04-25-2016, 04:20 PM   #9044
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The new dog bone center drive shafts don't really work with the King Headz dual bearing motor mount and center diff support. Since the drive cup is smaller and lighter the bearing doesn't touch the out drive cup.

Has anyone found a way to use a smaller I.D. bearing that would support the cups?

Maybe a plastic reducer or something to fill the gap?
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:46 PM   #9045
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I ended up ordering the Xtreme carbon chassis. Appears to be the same layout as the 2.0 chassis. Should be way lighter.
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