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Old 03-19-2013, 05:40 PM   #2266
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Went together excellent.
I did not like how long the servo wire ended up being, so I shortened it.
My excess RX8 wiring is folded and heat shrink ed under the servo.
The excess transponder wiring is coiled under the servo.
My glitch buster wire was the perfect length, also routed under the servo and out the rear.
I had a 9" sensor wire, and it is barely long enough. I would have liked a slightly longer sensor wire, but it works.
I eliminated the ESC switch. I did not like having it located right behind the front tire, with no protection.
So, what do you think?
Well you are doing just about what everybody else is doing but you could cut a couple inches off of you battery wires.
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:30 PM   #2267
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Do you use the closed cell foam? Any recommendations for outdoor smooth dirt?
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:34 PM   #2268
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does anyone have a good setup for flowood rc raceway??
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:37 PM   #2269
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How do you guys recommend cleaning the 2.0, it's about that time for me to get mine cleaned all up I took out all my electronics and instead of taking off the front/rear clip I was just going to use my trakpower speed wash(spray bottle pink formula) and wash the front/rear clip while somehow protecting the chassis because I don't want to spray the battery foam inserts then just wipe the chassis down, I have a slash which when I'd clean it I'd just spray the whole thing down with a hose and dry it but obviously I can't do that with this r/c, I'm not experienced with cleaning r/cs and I'd like to do it easy but good enough to keep it maintained
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:24 PM   #2270
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Originally Posted by Gas Rat Racin View Post
What I'm trying to avoid is gluing holes shut. I found some blank Kyosho pistons that I will drill 2 55 holes in.
We are going to make the 2 x 1.3 machined piston so you don't have to glue 4 x 1.3s, coming soon!
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:55 PM   #2271
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Originally Posted by XRated SCT View Post
How do you guys recommend cleaning the 2.0, it's about that time for me to get mine cleaned all up I took out all my electronics and instead of taking off the front/rear clip I was just going to use my trakpower speed wash(spray bottle pink formula) and wash the front/rear clip while somehow protecting the chassis because I don't want to spray the battery foam inserts then just wipe the chassis down, I have a slash which when I'd clean it I'd just spray the whole thing down with a hose and dry it but obviously I can't do that with this r/c, I'm not experienced with cleaning r/cs and I'd like to do it easy but good enough to keep it maintained

Really? Its not a space craft. Same way you clean any other RC....


(Sorry bitter my ride bailed so I still haven't been able to run my car and your already cleaning it)
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:52 AM   #2272
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Originally Posted by XRated SCT View Post
How do you guys recommend cleaning the 2.0, it's about that time for me to get mine cleaned all up I took out all my electronics and instead of taking off the front/rear clip I was just going to use my trakpower speed wash(spray bottle pink formula) and wash the front/rear clip while somehow protecting the chassis because I don't want to spray the battery foam inserts then just wipe the chassis down, I have a slash which when I'd clean it I'd just spray the whole thing down with a hose and dry it but obviously I can't do that with this r/c, I'm not experienced with cleaning r/cs and I'd like to do it easy but good enough to keep it maintained
If your going to spray it with any type of water, take every bearing out of the truck! It would be easier to takes the front and rear clip off of the chassis.
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Old 03-20-2013, 04:43 AM   #2273
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We are going to make the 2 x 1.3 machined piston so you don't have to glue 4 x 1.3s, coming soon!
That's great!!
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:17 AM   #2274
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Yup, Avid will have ya covered..
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:54 AM   #2275
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So I ran this truck last night for the second time, it is only my fourth time racing at all and I am really happy with it. I changed a couple of settings on my rx8 and loved it! The track is med. sized clay, bumpy, and mostly tight turns. I started with the book setup with one change. I used the 2 hole #55 pistons. For tires I used clay rattlers with the orenge panther foems.

When I started, I could control the truck more because of the changes I made to the rx8 but the truck was still sliding around like it was on ice. That was me punching the gas to free up the rear end. So I figured that the truck was just not rotating. I have also been looking for more off power steering mid corner. I changed the rear camber link to the 1 - A. So, raised it on the tower and brought it to the inside on the rear hub. Boy does it rotate now, I love it. The steering still wasn't were I would want it so I increased the droop to full droop front and rear, changed the front camber to 2 deg., and moved my front lower shock mounts in one hole on the arm. They are in the middle now. It is a lot better. A little more driving and a little more tuning and I think I can get it dialed.

I have a couple more questions for all you guys.
I need more side bit. At the end of the straight there is a little sweeper. I roll off the gas, and try to steer it throught the sweeper and the back end starts to slid and spin out. I then get back in the gas to straighten it out. I don't know if thats somthing I just have to get used to or if a little side bit will help.
Any other suggestion on steering mid corner?
The pistons that come with the truck, (1 - 5) what sizes relates to the numbers?
Thanks guys
Big race this weekend and can't wait to try more changes and get even faster.
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:58 AM   #2276
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We are going to make the 2 x 1.3 machined piston so you don't have to glue 4 x 1.3s, coming soon!
That is great! I am a big fan of Avid products.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:06 AM   #2277
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Bought some shock bottom caps from the lhs. Still had the same problem with caps not wanting to tighten down all the way! Wanted to bind just like the ones in the kit. At this point I think maybe the shock threads are to blame.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:25 AM   #2278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer View Post
So I ran this truck last night for the second time, it is only my fourth time racing at all and I am really happy with it. I changed a couple of settings on my rx8 and loved it! The track is med. sized clay, bumpy, and mostly tight turns. I started with the book setup with one change. I used the 2 hole #55 pistons. For tires I used clay rattlers with the orenge panther foems.

When I started, I could control the truck more because of the changes I made to the rx8 but the truck was still sliding around like it was on ice. That was me punching the gas to free up the rear end. So I figured that the truck was just not rotating. I have also been looking for more off power steering mid corner. I changed the rear camber link to the 1 - A. So, raised it on the tower and brought it to the inside on the rear hub. Boy does it rotate now, I love it. The steering still wasn't were I would want it so I increased the droop to full droop front and rear, changed the front camber to 2 deg., and moved my front lower shock mounts in one hole on the arm. They are in the middle now. It is a lot better. A little more driving and a little more tuning and I think I can get it dialed.

I have a couple more questions for all you guys.
I need more side bit. At the end of the straight there is a little sweeper. I roll off the gas, and try to steer it throught the sweeper and the back end starts to slid and spin out. I then get back in the gas to straighten it out. I don't know if thats somthing I just have to get used to or if a little side bit will help.
Any other suggestion on steering mid corner?
The pistons that come with the truck, (1 - 5) what sizes relates to the numbers?
Thanks guys
Big race this weekend and can't wait to try more changes and get even faster.
Stock pistons.
#1 0.95mm | #2 1.00mm |#3 1.05mm | #4 1.10mm | #5 1.15mm

For sweepers with a 4wd car I usually tap the brakes to set the front end right before the corner and then roll back onto the throttle through the middle of the turn.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:27 AM   #2279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graphite07 View Post
Bought some shock bottom caps from the lhs. Still had the same problem with caps not wanting to tighten down all the way! Wanted to bind just like the ones in the kit. At this point I think maybe the shock threads are to blame.
My understanding this problem arrose at some point during the 1.0 time frame but since those were all assembled kits and they use power tools to assemble the kits the lower cap issue was not discovered until the 2.0 came out. They are working on resolving the issue and has been stated more then a few times as soon as revised parts are recieved Horizon CS will get new lower caps to those that request them. If you get these on once though they are not all that bad to remove and put back on. Still not the way they are supposed to be but the do work.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:56 AM   #2280
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Dakota Phend just used the proline IONs at the Cactus Classis and won and i used them on carpet locally and they worked quite well and was very happy with them also!

http://prolineracing.com/tires/ion-s...mc-clay-tires/

These tires are amazing! I droped 1sec off my lap times vs gridirons. I droped .5 off vs barcodes. These tires just stick in every corner and no sliding when I break. They are much easier to drive then the barcodes. My track is an outdoor track with a building on it and is always preped and moist. After 1 month of racing Tuesday nights and practice on Monday and just before racing on Tuesday my tires showed about 1/4 of wear vs a new set. I sold all of my tires and now run only the proline ion.
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