17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
07-13-2014, 08:06 AM
Also, had a great day at the races yesterday. I think I got the fastest or second fasted single lap in qualifying and was leading the Amain when disaster struck. I got a little nervous (I am not in the lead often) and hit a pipe stake. Didn't seem to be a big impact so I was surprised when the marshal picked it up and the front wheel was dangling buy the camber link. The rear front hinge pin brace broke allowing the arm to rotate back breaking the shock cap as well.
I am thinking that the plastic hinge pin braces will fatigue over time. I broke the front rear brace last week. I think I will consider replacing them as a wear item. I have a hard time spending $100 on two braces as I already have the stock front front brace and the +1.5 rear brace. It sure would be nice if we could buy braces individually.
I am thinking that the plastic hinge pin braces will fatigue over time. I broke the front rear brace last week. I think I will consider replacing them as a wear item. I have a hard time spending $100 on two braces as I already have the stock front front brace and the +1.5 rear brace. It sure would be nice if we could buy braces individually.
07-13-2014, 08:26 AM
Tech Apprentice
Please help me get my ride height adjusted per stock levels. I'm trying to follow the stock guidelines for droop and ride height, but can't seem to get them close. First I set the droop to 102/120. Then I "settle" the fully loaded truck by dropping it 8" or so. Then I adjust the shock spring cap trying to get to 25/26 ride height. The thing is, even at lowest ride height setting on shocks, it is still 50-75 rude height with stock droop. I only get to stock ride height by getting rid of almost all the droop. I feel like I'm missing some major step. Can anyone help provide clear guidelines for getting ride height to 25/26mm? Thanks in advance.
07-13-2014, 08:31 AM
I'm not totally following that but the two adjustments are separate.
Set ride height with a fully loaded truck (no body) by simply pressing it down to the table and let it come back up. Adjust spring collars to set desired height.
The droop limits how far the arms can extend when the wheels are off the ground... chassis on a car stand or block of wood or whatever. Measure distance from the shocks top cap screw to bottom shock screw in the arm.
Droop will not affect ride height unless it is so wrong that you can not get a tall enough ride height... loosen the droop screws till they are barely touching the chassis with the truck in the air and start over again.
Set ride height with a fully loaded truck (no body) by simply pressing it down to the table and let it come back up. Adjust spring collars to set desired height.
The droop limits how far the arms can extend when the wheels are off the ground... chassis on a car stand or block of wood or whatever. Measure distance from the shocks top cap screw to bottom shock screw in the arm.
Droop will not affect ride height unless it is so wrong that you can not get a tall enough ride height... loosen the droop screws till they are barely touching the chassis with the truck in the air and start over again.
07-13-2014, 09:03 AM
Tech Apprentice
I'm not totally following that but the two adjustments are separate.
Set ride height with a fully loaded truck (no body) by simply pressing it down to the table and let it come back up. Adjust spring collars to set desired height.
The droop limits how far the arms can extend when the wheels are off the ground... chassis on a car stand or block of wood or whatever. Measure distance from the shocks top cap screw to bottom shock screw in the arm.
Droop will not affect ride height unless it is so wrong that you can not get a tall enough ride height... loosen the droop screws till they are barely touching the chassis with the truck in the air and start over again.
Set ride height with a fully loaded truck (no body) by simply pressing it down to the table and let it come back up. Adjust spring collars to set desired height.
The droop limits how far the arms can extend when the wheels are off the ground... chassis on a car stand or block of wood or whatever. Measure distance from the shocks top cap screw to bottom shock screw in the arm.
Droop will not affect ride height unless it is so wrong that you can not get a tall enough ride height... loosen the droop screws till they are barely touching the chassis with the truck in the air and start over again.
07-13-2014, 09:59 AM
No problem.
Now you have the adjustment down, find the hudy setup book (free) online (and a few others if you want) to learn how to tune with droop.
The adjustment limits how much the chassis can roll over in a turn along with pitch under breaking and accelerating. Starting with your base 102/120 setting, you can see what changes do and go back to where you started if it didn't improve handling on your track.
Less front droop allowed will keep the front wheels stuck to the ground better under acceleration. Less rear droop will reduce how much the rear end jacks up in the air under hard braking. Less overall droop will also reduce likelihood of traction rolling by reducing side roll.
On the flip side allowing the suspension to droop more than your base setting will let the chassis roll over more in a turn. Better on low traction. More front droop allowed will let the front lift more under acceleration lifting weight off the front tires, less aggressive steering, better on low traction.
More droop allowed may run on a beat up, rutted, moon crater track better.
Give and take to every change you make, and if you change spring rate or sway bar or roll center or whatever... one change affects the other. Best to know what does what so you can properly use the many settings on rc cars.
You will up your game considerably once you can tune the truck to your track and driving style, stock setups (and anyone else's for that matter) are just a starting point to tune from
Make only one change at a time and keep a note pad with you to keep your bearings on what changed what and notes about the change.
Now you have the adjustment down, find the hudy setup book (free) online (and a few others if you want) to learn how to tune with droop.
The adjustment limits how much the chassis can roll over in a turn along with pitch under breaking and accelerating. Starting with your base 102/120 setting, you can see what changes do and go back to where you started if it didn't improve handling on your track.
Less front droop allowed will keep the front wheels stuck to the ground better under acceleration. Less rear droop will reduce how much the rear end jacks up in the air under hard braking. Less overall droop will also reduce likelihood of traction rolling by reducing side roll.
On the flip side allowing the suspension to droop more than your base setting will let the chassis roll over more in a turn. Better on low traction. More front droop allowed will let the front lift more under acceleration lifting weight off the front tires, less aggressive steering, better on low traction.
More droop allowed may run on a beat up, rutted, moon crater track better.
Give and take to every change you make, and if you change spring rate or sway bar or roll center or whatever... one change affects the other. Best to know what does what so you can properly use the many settings on rc cars.
You will up your game considerably once you can tune the truck to your track and driving style, stock setups (and anyone else's for that matter) are just a starting point to tune from
Make only one change at a time and keep a note pad with you to keep your bearings on what changed what and notes about the change.
Last edited by fq06; 07-13-2014 at 10:14 AM.
07-13-2014, 11:07 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
120 is quite a bit of rear droop. Try 116 if you hare having issues with the truck nose diving of jumps.
07-13-2014, 05:51 PM
Anybody have any solid info on the actual width running the tekno/traxxas 17mm hub conversion?
07-13-2014, 09:14 PM
I never did install the full 17mm setup on mine because I have to many wheels and tires with the 12mm hex right to just chuck them and change over. Plus the 12mm hex wheels also fit on my 2wd SC truck so I get double duty on them.
But I did measure my SCT410 converted SL buggy width at 306mm and measured the traxxas 17mm hex on a SCT410 Hub and it was 5.1mm per side narrower than the Tekno 17mm SL buggy 17mm hex. By my math that would put the sct410 with traxxas 17mm hexes with 17mm wheels just under 296mm. I beleive 296 is max width according to ROAR rule book, so it should be legal. But it will be really close.
Like I said, I never actually built it all the way up and did the actual measurment, but by my calculations it should conform.
But I did measure my SCT410 converted SL buggy width at 306mm and measured the traxxas 17mm hex on a SCT410 Hub and it was 5.1mm per side narrower than the Tekno 17mm SL buggy 17mm hex. By my math that would put the sct410 with traxxas 17mm hexes with 17mm wheels just under 296mm. I beleive 296 is max width according to ROAR rule book, so it should be legal. But it will be really close.
Like I said, I never actually built it all the way up and did the actual measurment, but by my calculations it should conform.
07-13-2014, 09:31 PM
I never did install the full 17mm setup on mine because I have to many wheels and tires with the 12mm hex right to just chuck them and change over. Plus the 12mm hex wheels also fit on my 2wd SC truck so I get double duty on them.
But I did measure my SCT410 converted SL buggy width at 306mm and measured the traxxas 17mm hex on a SCT410 Hub and it was 5.1mm per side narrower than the Tekno 17mm SL buggy 17mm hex. By my math that would put the sct410 with traxxas 17mm hexes with 17mm wheels just under 296mm. I beleive 296 is max width according to ROAR rule book, so it should be legal. But it will be really close.
Like I said, I never actually built it all the way up and did the actual measurment, but by my calculations it should conform.
But I did measure my SCT410 converted SL buggy width at 306mm and measured the traxxas 17mm hex on a SCT410 Hub and it was 5.1mm per side narrower than the Tekno 17mm SL buggy 17mm hex. By my math that would put the sct410 with traxxas 17mm hexes with 17mm wheels just under 296mm. I beleive 296 is max width according to ROAR rule book, so it should be legal. But it will be really close.
Like I said, I never actually built it all the way up and did the actual measurment, but by my calculations it should conform.
07-14-2014, 07:15 AM
Club racing it wouldn't be a big deal, but any event where they tech the cars you'd be outta luck. if any part touches the gauge they usually black flag you. Ive seen people get runs DQ'd due to the slop in the wheel hubs angle them out too far and they didn't fit through the gauge squarely.
07-14-2014, 07:35 AM
With different sidewall profiles and tire widths, how do they get so exact?
All I've ever seen is a box to measure and frankly there is enough flex in the wheel, tire, hub and so on to get a truck through that's a few mm's off.
Do they have a set of rims that they mount up to racers trucks to take the measurement? Really makes no difference to me, haven't attended a roar race in a year and a half... just curious how they are measuring the width.
I wouldn't want to be too far past if at all, I do want to keep the race fair. I think the traxxas mod will be within reason for any club race but looking forward to hearing an actual on truck measurement.
All I've ever seen is a box to measure and frankly there is enough flex in the wheel, tire, hub and so on to get a truck through that's a few mm's off.
Do they have a set of rims that they mount up to racers trucks to take the measurement? Really makes no difference to me, haven't attended a roar race in a year and a half... just curious how they are measuring the width.
I wouldn't want to be too far past if at all, I do want to keep the race fair. I think the traxxas mod will be within reason for any club race but looking forward to hearing an actual on truck measurement.
07-14-2014, 08:13 AM
With different sidewall profiles and tire widths, how do they get so exact?
All I've ever seen is a box to measure and frankly there is enough flex in the wheel, tire, hub and so on to get a truck through that's a few mm's off.
Do they have a set of rims that they mount up to racers trucks to take the measurement? Really makes no difference to me, haven't attended a roar race in a year and a half... just curious how they are measuring the width.
I wouldn't want to be too far past if at all, I do want to keep the race fair. I think the traxxas mod will be within reason for any club race but looking forward to hearing an actual on truck measurement.
All I've ever seen is a box to measure and frankly there is enough flex in the wheel, tire, hub and so on to get a truck through that's a few mm's off.
Do they have a set of rims that they mount up to racers trucks to take the measurement? Really makes no difference to me, haven't attended a roar race in a year and a half... just curious how they are measuring the width.
I wouldn't want to be too far past if at all, I do want to keep the race fair. I think the traxxas mod will be within reason for any club race but looking forward to hearing an actual on truck measurement.
Since the measurement isn't at the end of the wheel hex (it's the widest point of the tire), you have to add a few MM considering that the bottom of the tire sticks out if running negative camber.
So if you're very close, some last second minor camber adjustments will get you though.
07-14-2014, 08:22 AM
About a year ago several top level pros were getting DQ runs because they were running so much negative camber that they wouldn't go through cleanly.
07-14-2014, 10:12 AM
That's strange, so like a unmolested scte that is legal width got a DQ because of a camber setting? Or sloppy scte suspension links?
I would have at least protested the call or maybe even not run that series again if my truck was 100% legal. There's a variance between tires, even the same manufacturer, different model... not sure how you could measure width any other way but with only the rims on. All major sct tires are roar compliant, but sidewall width varies between all of them.
I bet if you put your truck at ride height the sidewall bulge is past 296... even with the +0 tekno hex. Measure the rim and you're fine.
Maybe barcodes your fine but panther rattler or aka's with wide insert you DQ? Hopefully that was a little series race using 100% roar rules in a militant way and not a roar race.
Anyway, again... make no difference to me as long as I am hitting the mark with just rims and I feel I am being a fair racer. I'm just curious about how it is handled in other parts of the country.
I would have at least protested the call or maybe even not run that series again if my truck was 100% legal. There's a variance between tires, even the same manufacturer, different model... not sure how you could measure width any other way but with only the rims on. All major sct tires are roar compliant, but sidewall width varies between all of them.
I bet if you put your truck at ride height the sidewall bulge is past 296... even with the +0 tekno hex. Measure the rim and you're fine.
Maybe barcodes your fine but panther rattler or aka's with wide insert you DQ? Hopefully that was a little series race using 100% roar rules in a militant way and not a roar race.
Anyway, again... make no difference to me as long as I am hitting the mark with just rims and I feel I am being a fair racer. I'm just curious about how it is handled in other parts of the country.
07-14-2014, 10:13 AM
No problem.
Now you have the adjustment down, find the hudy setup book (free) online (and a few others if you want) to learn how to tune with droop.
The adjustment limits how much the chassis can roll over in a turn along with pitch under breaking and accelerating. Starting with your base 102/120 setting, you can see what changes do and go back to where you started if it didn't improve handling on your track.
Less front droop allowed will keep the front wheels stuck to the ground better under acceleration. Less rear droop will reduce how much the rear end jacks up in the air under hard braking. Less overall droop will also reduce likelihood of traction rolling by reducing side roll.
On the flip side allowing the suspension to droop more than your base setting will let the chassis roll over more in a turn. Better on low traction. More front droop allowed will let the front lift more under acceleration lifting weight off the front tires, less aggressive steering, better on low traction.
More droop allowed may run on a beat up, rutted, moon crater track better.
Give and take to every change you make, and if you change spring rate or sway bar or roll center or whatever... one change affects the other. Best to know what does what so you can properly use the many settings on rc cars.
You will up your game considerably once you can tune the truck to your track and driving style, stock setups (and anyone else's for that matter) are just a starting point to tune from
Make only one change at a time and keep a note pad with you to keep your bearings on what changed what and notes about the change.
Now you have the adjustment down, find the hudy setup book (free) online (and a few others if you want) to learn how to tune with droop.
The adjustment limits how much the chassis can roll over in a turn along with pitch under breaking and accelerating. Starting with your base 102/120 setting, you can see what changes do and go back to where you started if it didn't improve handling on your track.
Less front droop allowed will keep the front wheels stuck to the ground better under acceleration. Less rear droop will reduce how much the rear end jacks up in the air under hard braking. Less overall droop will also reduce likelihood of traction rolling by reducing side roll.
On the flip side allowing the suspension to droop more than your base setting will let the chassis roll over more in a turn. Better on low traction. More front droop allowed will let the front lift more under acceleration lifting weight off the front tires, less aggressive steering, better on low traction.
More droop allowed may run on a beat up, rutted, moon crater track better.
Give and take to every change you make, and if you change spring rate or sway bar or roll center or whatever... one change affects the other. Best to know what does what so you can properly use the many settings on rc cars.
You will up your game considerably once you can tune the truck to your track and driving style, stock setups (and anyone else's for that matter) are just a starting point to tune from
Make only one change at a time and keep a note pad with you to keep your bearings on what changed what and notes about the change.