kcobra

iTrader: (11)

Ordered me a Losi 8ight-t 3.0. Done with Durango. Need to sell my DEX408T and spare kit. Truck has 4 months of racing on it so the rear of the chassis is bent and the CVD's are bent. Fully functional though and drives well. Spare kit is 90% there. No main chassis plate or body. If I remember right I only used one CVD bone out of it. Think there are a couple spurs still in the package. Diffs are all there. One arm missing and one shock end. Can't think of anything else.

Asking $400 shipped for the package in the lower 48. I'll take some pics later this week.

-Wade

mikehannah

iTrader: (19)

Mine is shot dont have few weeks to wait looking for some so I can start practice next weekend.let me know price.paypal ready.need stock 60t.thanks

rc_dude

iTrader: (131)

To each there own I guess. Just kinda find it odd since I have the DEX408T and my close friend has the 8ight-t 2.0 and i've been much harder on mine than he has and yet mine seems to hold up much better... The past half a year he's broke the rear hubs, 2 diffs, and the servo tray and i've only had a spur and one bearing fail...

Anyway, I wish I could afford it for a custom project I wanna do...but i can't for a while

kcobra

iTrader: (11)

My DEX408T package has been sold.

fredygump

iTrader: (1)

I'm a new owner of a DEX408T...it's still in the mail, but I'm working out how to power it.

My question is, will a 39mm thick battery fit? I'm looking at gen's ace batteries, since I run them on my SC truck. i would like to run 6s, because I figure that 2- 3s 5,000mah are lighter and a bit less expensive than 2- 2s 7,000mah. Also theoretically a tiny bit more power.

Durango's page specifies a max battery height of 35mm...is there a way to get another 4mm clearance for the slightly thicker batteries?


...I'll know in a couple of days, but I just gotta know. Right now...

rc_dude

iTrader: (131)

I have 35mm high batteries and they are a little bit of a hassle to install, but that's also because they are longer and I extended the battery tray. If they are the "normal" length, You'll probably be able to squeeze them in but it may be a little difficult

Monteman

iTrader: (16)

Cant wait to get into this and start building.
Need to pick up a couple odds and ends before though.

infinity 1

iTrader: (13)

Hey guys I have a question for you. I have a dnx408t and would like to convert it to electric. I would like to use the same stuff that comes on the dex408t. What parts would I need. Thanks

madmikegxp

iTrader: (7)

Chassis, center diff mount, servo mount, rear chassis brace and brace extension, side protectors, and hardware for all of that. I think thats everything.

Monteman

iTrader: (16)

Started the build tonight, i forgot how much involved a scratch build is.
Kinda fun.
Going 7k-7k-2k as far as differentials is concerned. Figure recommended stock will be more than adequate to start off with as i am not necessarily planning on racing.
The only thing i know i am still missing right now is a 4th Alum Shock cap.
I screwed up when i placed my first order with Tower and misread the item and thought they were sold in pairs so i bought 2.

Each.

Picked up 1 from the LHS and should see the 2nd one next week if all goes as planned.

ekt

iTrader: (4)

Only the front and rear suspension parts are the same. Everything in the middle is different. To build on madmikegxp's list you'll also need battery straps, center driveshafts, spur gear and the spur cover/esc mounting plate.

madmikegxp

iTrader: (7)

I knew I was missing a few things.

Arthur_01

iTrader: (14)

Anybody need a parts roller, check out the for sale section. Have a one race old dnx408t for sale

Monteman

iTrader: (16)

The fun stuff is done, still need to do a heart transplant and get some electronics in there, but the build is finished anyways.

One thing i noticed is the factory body shell is ultra thin and flimsy.
Are there any other shells out there that fit well?

Trying to decide if i just want to rattle can this shell or not (buddy of mine paints most of my shells).
Paint is definitely not my area of expertise.

Monteman

iTrader: (16)

ugh... screwed again by Tamiya rattle cans.
Decided to do this one myself.
Was gonna do a simple 2 color fade purple to black.
Laid the purple up front feathered off decently exactly where i was planning on it shifting from purple to black. Hit it with the blow dryer and then let it sit for about 3 hours.
Went to hit with the black and it INSTANTLY ran the purple.

Should have learned better last time and threw this damn tamiya crap out.
The same thing happened on a buggy shell last summer as well.

Both cans are identical Tamiya spray for polycarbonate paint, solid colors, no funky metallics. Just plain purple and black. So aggravating. When it was the buggy job, i thought i didn't wait long enough in between coats. So i went and bought a heat gun to aide the process. Heat and 3 hours isn't enough obviously.

*Edit*

Turned out OK i guess, but the purple ended up being way further back than i had originally intended.

Going to make the change to Spaz-Stix for my next attempt.