172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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04-06-2015, 02:14 PM
Thanks guys for the heads up it was a Nova spur and I already ordered a larger spur.
04-06-2015, 04:07 PM
hmmmm....
First make sure the slipper is assembled properly. It can be a little tricky. Make sure all the washers and pads are in the proper places. While doing this have an experienced racer check your pads. You don't want them to look glazed. If they are a quick lap around some high grit sand paper will clean them up. Also check for build up the metal discs.
Next have an experienced racer check and adjust your diff. If it needs to be tightened you may want to run it in a couple of times (hold one wheel and apply 1/4 throttle, allowing the other wheel to spin freely for approximately 20 seconds) and check it again.
Finally do a slipper test on the bench. Place your buggy pointing away from you. While holding your radio in your throttle hand; hold one rear wheel firmly with your free hand and then firmly press down on the other rear wheel with base of the radio. Now give the throttle a firm blip. Don't hold it just a quick blip of full throttle. Note how high or if the front wheels lift off the ground. Also note any sounds that may result. A high pitched squeak is the slipper. A midrange "bark" is the diff. Another way to know if it is the diff or the slipper is to watch the reaction of racers near-by. They won't react to a slipper chirp, but a diff bark will send them into convulsions. Barking the diff is bad, one small bark won't kill it, but more than a couple will ruin a brand new diff. You want to see the wheels lift off the table by about 2" to start. Not enough lift and you'll find it difficult to accelerate rapidly, too much and the car will become difficult to drive.
Above all, don't be afraid to ask for help. I have come across very few racers who won't help if asked, but even less racers have the ability to tell that you are having difficulty with out you asking.
First make sure the slipper is assembled properly. It can be a little tricky. Make sure all the washers and pads are in the proper places. While doing this have an experienced racer check your pads. You don't want them to look glazed. If they are a quick lap around some high grit sand paper will clean them up. Also check for build up the metal discs.
Next have an experienced racer check and adjust your diff. If it needs to be tightened you may want to run it in a couple of times (hold one wheel and apply 1/4 throttle, allowing the other wheel to spin freely for approximately 20 seconds) and check it again.
Finally do a slipper test on the bench. Place your buggy pointing away from you. While holding your radio in your throttle hand; hold one rear wheel firmly with your free hand and then firmly press down on the other rear wheel with base of the radio. Now give the throttle a firm blip. Don't hold it just a quick blip of full throttle. Note how high or if the front wheels lift off the ground. Also note any sounds that may result. A high pitched squeak is the slipper. A midrange "bark" is the diff. Another way to know if it is the diff or the slipper is to watch the reaction of racers near-by. They won't react to a slipper chirp, but a diff bark will send them into convulsions. Barking the diff is bad, one small bark won't kill it, but more than a couple will ruin a brand new diff. You want to see the wheels lift off the table by about 2" to start. Not enough lift and you'll find it difficult to accelerate rapidly, too much and the car will become difficult to drive.
Above all, don't be afraid to ask for help. I have come across very few racers who won't help if asked, but even less racers have the ability to tell that you are having difficulty with out you asking.
EDIT- What all goes wrong in there? While I am in should I blow the whole thing apart and replace everything including cases? Or clean and re grease?
Last edited by SoCalMX; 04-06-2015 at 05:42 PM.
04-06-2015, 06:21 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
04-06-2015, 07:16 PM
Just an FYI, Amazon has the RB6 for $379.
04-06-2015, 07:45 PM
new plates, balls, thrust bearing. just clean the rest.
04-06-2015, 07:50 PM
04-06-2015, 09:31 PM
Well last minute tonight pulled out the wire cutters and the dremel and switched everything over to sideways. Going to try out tomorrow, kinda have high hopes for it!
I can pull wheelies in my basement now with my 17.5, seems like it has a lot more rear traction, which I think will help me. If I lose some steering I'll turn my dual rate up from 72% to 85-87%.
I can pull wheelies in my basement now with my 17.5, seems like it has a lot more rear traction, which I think will help me. If I lose some steering I'll turn my dual rate up from 72% to 85-87%.
04-07-2015, 05:23 AM
Second race with the RB6. Tq and won stock buggy by a lap. Car is so good I'm not changing a thing. Same for my ZX6, and RT6. TQ and wins in both other classes.
04-07-2015, 05:44 AM
04-07-2015, 07:02 AM
Second on the battery placement request! Also, where are you racing, was it OCRC? I am also still considering a RT6, is there a lot of cross compatibility between the B and the T?
04-07-2015, 07:32 AM
04-07-2015, 07:51 AM
Here is how I did It. But kep in kind I do have rhe brass block so my weight us right where I want it. Could probably get rid of it in stock, but I like a very balanced car better then a light weight all of the place car.
04-07-2015, 01:20 PM
Quick question here, tried to search the thread but couldn't find an answer, but what's the advantage to running the steel RB5 axles (UM506) on the front? Seeing it on a few of the setups on Kyosho's site, but what's the reasoning? Thanks!
04-07-2015, 07:08 PM
Here is my set up. I will be running a mid battery set up. Some of the guys at the track ran rear battery set up last year and they where just a bit off balanced on the jumps so I figured to try a mid battery set up. Now I just have to test the car to see how it handles but the track is still closed here since it's still cold hope we will get better weather soon.
04-07-2015, 07:47 PM
Here is my set up. I will be running a mid battery set up. Some of the guys at the track ran rear battery set up last year and they where just a bit off balanced on the jumps so I figured to try a mid battery set up. Now I just have to test the car to see how it handles but the track is still closed here since it's still cold hope we will get better weather soon.