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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-01-2013, 10:41 AM   #6001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wild gopher View Post
Is there a certain length I should run in the rear hub? I ay just buy the ones for that first and slowly upgrade the rest
I use 8mm Ball studs on the Aluminum hubs. Gives room for up to 3mm spacer and still have 2x dia engagement in the aluminum.

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Old 04-01-2013, 10:47 AM   #6002
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If you are going to be replacing ball studs, there really isn't a replacement better than a lunsford.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:55 AM   #6003
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will these work for rear hubs?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...uds-2-SC10-4x4
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:03 AM   #6004
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Yes, those are correct 4.8mm Dia Ball with 3mm threaded stud. You can also get them in 6mm, 7mm and 8mm lengths from A-Main.

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Old 04-01-2013, 01:25 PM   #6005
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if some of you guys are having issues with loud drivetrains check your idler gears mine was getting load and sure enough the idler gear was on its way ou..t
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:00 PM   #6006
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If you are going to be replacing ball studs, there really isn't a replacement better than a lunsford.
+1, the best.

I've gone through three cars with my set. 2 years and counting.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:31 AM   #6007
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So, I have been watching this thread on and off for a while. I saw you guys are playing with the width and doing some exotek upgrades. I think I am going to start trolling the for sale thread looking for the right deal on a used rb6. I am real curious to see what this buggy feels like. I currently have a 22 and a b4. And in all honestly, if i could combine the like for both of those, I would have the perfect buggy. The 22 is made so well and is crazy durable. But the B4 is so easy to tune and drop on the track. Some people have told me that the rb6 has the durability of the 22 and the handling of the b4. So, like i said, I want to find the right deal to try this buggy out. What upgrades/mods are the most important for me to look for? If you know of someone selling for a reasonable price feel free to PM me.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:34 AM   #6008
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It has the stability of the 22, and the steering of the B4.

It doesn't need anything out of the box. I didn't run mine long, but had no issues with the plastic hubs, and plastic rack (the 2 most commonly upgraded items).
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:38 AM   #6009
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yeah, I knew the rack was a main one. I thought there was an issue with the stock rack, hence the reason most went with the exotek. People just like alum hubs, I am sure the plastic ones are fine.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:38 AM   #6010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
So, I have been watching this thread on and off for a while. I saw you guys are playing with the width and doing some exotek upgrades. I think I am going to start trolling the for sale thread looking for the right deal on a used rb6. I am real curious to see what this buggy feels like. I currently have a 22 and a b4. And in all honestly, if i could combine the like for both of those, I would have the perfect buggy. The 22 is made so well and is crazy durable. But the B4 is so easy to tune and drop on the track. Some people have told me that the rb6 has the durability of the 22 and the handling of the b4. So, like i said, I want to find the right deal to try this buggy out. What upgrades/mods are the most important for me to look for? If you know of someone selling for a reasonable price feel free to PM me.
Here's what i've broken. Granted i'm a very green driver.

Rear suspension holder. Just the RR block.

Rear hub carrier. Breaks where the pin goes though to mount to rear arm.

Rear camber block. The ballstud ripped out the outer mounting hole. This ONLY happened when I went to a longer ballstud.

Thats it and I beat the tar outta this thing.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:42 AM   #6011
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yeah, now that you mention it, I have heard of the rear block breaking. Didnt really hear of broken rear hubs. Is the material just to thin around the hinge pin? My 8 year old would be driving this car probably also....So it need to be able to eat pipes and role over crash, lol.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:47 AM   #6012
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Honestly I think it is. For 450 this kit should come with aluminum hubs, aluminum steering rack and suspension blocks. Just imo. Probably holding out on that nice stuff for the SP kit.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:49 AM   #6013
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lol, I can only image the price of the SP, lol.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:56 AM   #6014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
yeah, I knew the rack was a main one. I thought there was an issue with the stock rack, hence the reason most went with the exotek. People just like alum hubs, I am sure the plastic ones are fine.
I got the exo rack just to be safe, but have not broken anything on this car yet, I've seen some RF2's break, but I believe they used the weaker version. I have alum RF blocks, and switch between alum .5 and plastic 0 hubs. When building the car take note to thread the ballstuds straight, you can mess up the threads if you force a ballstud in the wrong way. I also used a very lon ballstud in the rear mount and put big .5mm washers and a lock nut on the bottom, and have not broken that part. (would be worth the $20 exo upgrade to be sure).

The car IS $200 nicer than a B4.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:59 AM   #6015
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The kit front hinge pin holder will bend. You will need the upgraded KYOUM720B Kyosho High Strength SP Front Suspension Plate (Type-B).
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