Turbo911

iTrader: (4)

I use 8mm Ball studs on the Aluminum hubs. Gives room for up to 3mm spacer and still have 2x dia engagement in the aluminum.

Turbo

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

If you are going to be replacing ball studs, there really isn't a replacement better than a lunsford.

wild gopher

iTrader: (39)

will these work for rear hubs?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...uds-2-SC10-4x4

Turbo911

iTrader: (4)

Yes, those are correct 4.8mm Dia Ball with 3mm threaded stud. You can also get them in 6mm, 7mm and 8mm lengths from A-Main.

Turbo

eper

iTrader: (14)

if some of you guys are having issues with loud drivetrains check your idler gears mine was getting load and sure enough the idler gear was on its way ou..t

mojo tom

+1, the best.

I've gone through three cars with my set. 2 years and counting.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

So, I have been watching this thread on and off for a while. I saw you guys are playing with the width and doing some exotek upgrades. I think I am going to start trolling the for sale thread looking for the right deal on a used rb6. I am real curious to see what this buggy feels like. I currently have a 22 and a b4. And in all honestly, if i could combine the like for both of those, I would have the perfect buggy. The 22 is made so well and is crazy durable. But the B4 is so easy to tune and drop on the track. Some people have told me that the rb6 has the durability of the 22 and the handling of the b4. So, like i said, I want to find the right deal to try this buggy out. What upgrades/mods are the most important for me to look for? If you know of someone selling for a reasonable price feel free to PM me.

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

It has the stability of the 22, and the steering of the B4.

It doesn't need anything out of the box. I didn't run mine long, but had no issues with the plastic hubs, and plastic rack (the 2 most commonly upgraded items).

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I knew the rack was a main one. I thought there was an issue with the stock rack, hence the reason most went with the exotek. People just like alum hubs, I am sure the plastic ones are fine.

HalfManHalfGod

Here's what i've broken. Granted i'm a very green driver.

Rear suspension holder. Just the RR block.

Rear hub carrier. Breaks where the pin goes though to mount to rear arm.

Rear camber block. The ballstud ripped out the outer mounting hole. This ONLY happened when I went to a longer ballstud.

Thats it and I beat the tar outta this thing.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, now that you mention it, I have heard of the rear block breaking. Didnt really hear of broken rear hubs. Is the material just to thin around the hinge pin? My 8 year old would be driving this car probably also....So it need to be able to eat pipes and role over crash, lol.

HalfManHalfGod

Honestly I think it is. For 450 this kit should come with aluminum hubs, aluminum steering rack and suspension blocks. Just imo. Probably holding out on that nice stuff for the SP kit.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

lol, I can only image the price of the SP, lol.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

I got the exo rack just to be safe, but have not broken anything on this car yet, I've seen some RF2's break, but I believe they used the weaker version. I have alum RF blocks, and switch between alum .5 and plastic 0 hubs. When building the car take note to thread the ballstuds straight, you can mess up the threads if you force a ballstud in the wrong way. I also used a very lon ballstud in the rear mount and put big .5mm washers and a lock nut on the bottom, and have not broken that part. (would be worth the $20 exo upgrade to be sure).

The car IS $200 nicer than a B4.

gelshocker

iTrader: (1)

The kit front hinge pin holder will bend. You will need the upgraded KYOUM720B Kyosho High Strength SP Front Suspension Plate (Type-B).