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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-15-2012, 10:22 PM
  #3406  
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Anyone running 4 hole #55 pistons in there shocks?

How are you doing this? Losi, ghea brand pistons? Or glueing a hole in the stock piston? Can't seem to find kyosho blanks in stock.

What is the effect between the 4 hole and standard piston? More pack?

If I was running 37.5/32.5wt losi oil on standard shocks would this be around 32.5/27.5wt on the 4 hole pistons?
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:38 AM
  #3407  
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Default Limiters

Anyone running limiters. Lol. Nevermind .....
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:24 AM
  #3408  
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Pulled the trigger and ordered a RB6.
Is there a good starting setup for smooth indoor clay with med to high bite or iskit build setup decent? Running barcodes in gold.
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:09 AM
  #3409  
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Originally Posted by gelshocker
I still use the original UM131 with my RB5, just bend it outwards a little and it will hold. Check after each run and bend with your hands. Still using the original SP2 one.

The later thicker SP holder would bend just looking at it awkwardly. Unfortunately the RB6 only comes in this thickness and you need to stock up.
I was just wondering if this piece wold work in Carbon Fiber. or maybe a plastic like the one RPM uses for there products
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:14 AM
  #3410  
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Originally Posted by Tom87
Anyone running 4 hole #55 pistons in there shocks?

How are you doing this? Losi, ghea brand pistons? Or glueing a hole in the stock piston? Can't seem to find kyosho blanks in stock.

What is the effect between the 4 hole and standard piston? More pack?

If I was running 37.5/32.5wt losi oil on standard shocks would this be around 32.5/27.5wt on the 4 hole pistons?
4x55's give more pack. You would probably want to drop the oil down when changing by about 2.5wt. The Losi BB pistons are a smaller diameter than Kyosho pistons so there will be more blow by around the outside. I've ran both Losi's and Kyosho's, the shock is smoother with the Kyosho because it's designed to all work together, the piston is the guide that keeps the shaft straight. When I made my K 4 holes I couldn't find blanks or get CA to stick to the piston so I plugged one hole with a tiny screw from a micro heli.
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:28 AM
  #3411  
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Originally Posted by JACK HAMMER
Anyone running limiters. Lol. Nevermind .....
LMFAO

I run .5 in the rear shocks for my local track... I might take them out though.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:59 AM
  #3412  
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Originally Posted by kwiksi
Pulled the trigger and ordered a RB6.
Is there a good starting setup for smooth indoor clay with med to high bite or iskit build setup decent? Running barcodes in gold.
I've been running the Japan standard setup with the only modification being the rear hubs moved all the way back so the car will rotate a little better off power. That's it!
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:07 AM
  #3413  
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I did some testing last night at our track and found a few more tweaks I liked on my car.

I also ran white springs a few time, but Golds are standard for me.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18166464/Ke...DRC%20Base.pdf
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:07 AM
  #3414  
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Side note, anyone else have issues with Kyosho outdrives? Mine chipped, and I have the other side wearing as well. Anything I can do to make this stop? It has happened on all of my cars.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:21 AM
  #3415  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Side note, anyone else have issues with Kyosho outdrives? Mine chipped, and I have the other side wearing as well. Anything I can do to make this stop? It has happened on all of my cars.
They are wear items... as are the swing shafts.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:23 AM
  #3416  
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Originally Posted by kwiksi
Pulled the trigger and ordered a RB6.
Is there a good starting setup for smooth indoor clay with med to high bite or iskit build setup decent? Running barcodes in gold.
If you need spares I have a pantload on the for sale threads cheap. Spares of spares I don't need cause the car is that bullet proof.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom87
Anyone running 4 hole #55 pistons in there shocks?

How are you doing this? Losi, ghea brand pistons? Or glueing a hole in the stock piston? Can't seem to find kyosho blanks in stock.

What is the effect between the 4 hole and standard piston? More pack?

If I was running 37.5/32.5wt losi oil on standard shocks would this be around 32.5/27.5wt on the 4 hole pistons?
It would be close, but not exact. I run Losi pistons, cheap, and do the job awfully well.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:41 AM
  #3418  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
It would be close, but not exact. I run Losi pistons, cheap, and do the job awfully well.
Iv been running the losi 55s for the last couple weeks, but just changed over to the Ghea 1.3s last night, and found a noticeable improvement. Car soaked up the bumps just a tad better... shocks are smoother. The losi's don't fit as well, in both the shock body, and inbetween the two eclips on the shock shaft. They are pricy... but I think worth the money if looking for a 4 hole 1.3.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:53 AM
  #3419  
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I run blank Kyosho drilled to #55 (1.3mm) and they are noticeably better than Losi 55s, which arent really 55s. Closer to 55.75s or something.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:07 PM
  #3420  
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Originally Posted by K_King
I run blank Kyosho drilled to #55 (1.3mm) and they are noticeably better than Losi 55s, which arent really 55s. Closer to 55.75s or something.
And FYI, #55s are actually 1.32. So 1.3s are actually a tiny bit smaller. And I have a pretty steady hand, but couldn't trust myself to drill all the holes identically in size and proximity on a set of blanks. The Gheas are machined and are flawless, which is why I went that way. The taper is also a neat feature.
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