2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
08-16-2013, 11:29 AM
#8596
In case anyone is curious, to convert an EB48 to EB48.2 would cost at least $404 and thats only if you buy complete diffs because its cheaper(about 50%) than buying all the pieces separately.
So you are better off buying a new kit, that being said it just goes to show you how much value you are getting from Tekno considering they did not raise the price even one cent.
So you are better off buying a new kit, that being said it just goes to show you how much value you are getting from Tekno considering they did not raise the price even one cent.
08-16-2013, 11:32 AM
#8597
+1.5 degree rear toe plate (TKR5013B). Anyone know when these will be in stock or where I can get one? They are as elusive as the EB48.2.
Speaking of, awesome upgrades... they could have almost just called it the EB48I (for indoor obviously) it is so light, I think it would get tossed around on my local outdoor track.
Speaking of, awesome upgrades... they could have almost just called it the EB48I (for indoor obviously) it is so light, I think it would get tossed around on my local outdoor track.
We are currently out of stock on TKR5013B but should be in within the next 4-6 weeks but maybe sooner.
Sorry for the delay, we had them and they sold out quick!
-Thomas
08-16-2013, 11:33 AM
#8598
I personally have not ran my brand new EB48.1 and will run it for the time. As things break and need replacing is when I will put the .2 parts on (minus the arms)
08-16-2013, 11:40 AM
#8599
Which hole in the Ackerman plate will give a greater angle than the stock M position?
08-16-2013, 12:06 PM
#8601
How has the reliability been with the hard anodized aluminum rod end pivot balls? I always wished someone had made steel balls for the Losi SCTE rod ends because I hated replacing them every couple of months when they wore down. I'm still using the rod ends that came on my first run EB48 and there is almost no wear what so ever.
08-16-2013, 12:33 PM
#8602
Thinking about my .2 build, and curious if the crowd has any input on pairing the HW SCT-Pro with one of their 1/8 scale motors. It seems the 150A is big and requires some mods to fit. My .1 has an RX8 and the 2050 which has been rock solid, but not sure I want to drop the coin to go Gen 2 as the HW setup in my SCT410 has been really impressive. TIA.
Forward gives more steering angle on both wheels (less ackerman)
08-16-2013, 01:44 PM
#8606
Last race, and track is generally rough, lots of random holes and ruts out on it, hard to see.
08-16-2013, 01:56 PM
#8608
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
Buy some #22 drill blanks and cut them to legnth, you will not bend them any more. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMPXNO=5832171
It looks like you have truggy hubs on there, are you going to run it in truggy classs?
It looks like you have truggy hubs on there, are you going to run it in truggy classs?
08-16-2013, 03:40 PM
#8609
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s09f5iFgGB0
Last race, and track is generally rough, lots of random holes and ruts out on it, hard to see.
Last race, and track is generally rough, lots of random holes and ruts out on it, hard to see.
What's your current limiter set at? I think you could drop it some for a bit better traction as the track looks pretty loose off line.
08-16-2013, 04:04 PM
#8610
I just built a new centre diff using parts I had ordered. Very smooth while allowing the spur to be screwed down nice and tight. Seemed very different to my first build where I was having issues with them being notchy depending on how tight they were put together. Not having built diffs before I really didn't know what to expect.