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Old 12-23-2012, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by shagnat
Help with setting up front end:

I'm rebuilding a used B4.1 Worlds. Both the front tires are pigeon-toed. I don't think this is right, so, which of the turnbuckles do I adjust in order to bring them in line?

Also, should I have any toe-in or camber?

Help is needed right away 'coz I'm going to be running tomorrow (first time)
It sounds like your turn buckle coming from the steering rack is off. If you do tighten the turnbuckles going to your wheel from the middle of the car to the wheel that should fix your problem.. Go until they look square. Camber for the front is usually -1* for most.
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Old 12-23-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by liquid g
I tried looking through the thread under search but I'm now running the big bores and was wondering if I should keep the losi springs since i have all the colors I was running before with the v2's .was using red fronts white rears .or should I change to a different color
The spring rates most people are using with the big bores are stiffer than the springs used with the V2s. The initial damping with 1.6 pistons is lighter and produces more roll. If you go with 1.7 pistons, you might be able to use your old springs, but you will be doing so with a loss of pack.
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Old 12-23-2012, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by YankeeFan123
Bro codes don't work as well as a set of broken in bar codes or v1 suburbs
Yupp suburbs definitely will give you the most rear grip over there. I have a set of bro codes they work alright but still not as good as even the regular bar codes.
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Old 12-23-2012, 06:08 PM
  #26089  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
It sounds like your turn buckle coming from the steering rack is off. If you do tighten the turnbuckles going to your wheel from the middle of the car to the wheel that should fix your problem.. Go until they look square. Camber for the front is usually -1* for most.
Got cha'. Thanks. BTW, you were spot on. That turnbuckle is waaay off. Should have been obvious even for a nooB.
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Old 12-23-2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie
Yupp suburbs definitely will give you the most rear grip over there. I have a set of bro codes they work alright but still not as good as even the regular bar codes.
But are you comparing broken in bro codes to broken in bar codes? I thought the bro codes were just to speed up the break in process, not completely eliminate it all together. You seem pretty thorough in your testing, so I bet you compared broken in to broken in.
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Old 12-23-2012, 06:54 PM
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what are these long clips used for?

http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/1734/
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Old 12-23-2012, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by shagnat
Got cha'. Thanks. BTW, you were spot on. That turnbuckle is waaay off. Should have been obvious even for a nooB.
buy yourself one of these
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...hires/7049.htm

and one of these,

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...hires/7099.htm

otherwise you're just guessing
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Old 12-23-2012, 06:58 PM
  #26093  
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:08 PM
  #26094  
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Originally Posted by mtpocketsracing
buy yourself one of these
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...hires/7049.htm

and one of these,

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...hires/7099.htm

otherwise you're just guessing
Yeah, I've got both of those, I just needed to know how to correct the problem.

Now, I've gone by the manual and adjusted both (actually all 4) turnbuckles to 2.62" from center of ball cup to center of ball cup and that makes my pigeon-toed problem even worse......... I'm looking at the manual and that's what it says to me..... am I reading this wrong? H E L P ! ! !

Last edited by shagnat; 12-23-2012 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:12 PM
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any setup you recommend starting with R.Shackleford?

Also, what spring kits or even just spring rates do you recommend having for big bore shocks when going from hi traction like carpet, or, loose dirt conditions?
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:18 PM
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Default F'd up servo?!

Tonight I clipped the edge of a pipe that had come apart right at the end of the straight. It sheared my a arm off and busted my shock tower. Now my servo bounces back and forth as if it can't find center. It still works fine and if it has some resistance like wheels on the ground it doesn't do it, just on the stand. Is this something I can fix or does it need service? Its a jr9100s I use the avid steering and aluminum servo arm so is this going to keep busting my servos? I know the losi buggy has no saver at all and the locked steering is pretty common, but I'd rather not replace a $140 servo more than once every few years!
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by shagnat
Yeah, I've got both of those, I just needed to know how to correct the problem.

Now, I've gone by the manual and adjusted both (actually all 4) camber links to 2.62" from center of ball cup to center of ball cup and that makes my pigeon-toed problem even worse......... I'm looking at the manual and that's what it says to me..... am I reading this wrong? H E L P ! ! !
that's just a baseline setting. use your setup tools to make it right.

this dude makes some good how to videos.

toe adjustment
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyENiQnXpv8

camber,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUQ1xWaNf9g

Last edited by mtpocketsracing; 12-23-2012 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:20 PM
  #26098  
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Did you check the actual servo horn to see if it has any stripped teeth?

One reason when running the T4.1 with the no servo saver setup I keep using plastic heavy duty horns was on a hard enough hit, the horn would break. Sucks when it happened, but, as you said, better than replacing a servo at that cost, and I run the same servo as you do.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mtpocketsracing
that's just a baseline setting. use your setup tools to make it right.
Ok, but, that's a heck of a lot of adjusting.... BTW, I didn't mean camber links, I mean to say "turnbuckles". Don't know if that makes a difference to your answer or not.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:27 PM
  #26100  
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Originally Posted by shagnat
Yeah, I've got both of those, I just needed to know how to correct the problem.

Now, I've gone by the manual and adjusted both (actually all 4) camber links to 2.62" from center of ball cup to center of ball cup and that makes my pigeon-toed problem even worse......... I'm looking at the manual and that's what it says to me..... am I reading this wrong? H E L P ! ! !
First make sure the steering rack itself is centered. Then make sure the little ball cups on the steering link from the servo has right at a 2mm gap. Then make both of the steering turnbuckles the exact same length until the wheels are perfectly straight: this will be 0* toe.... Now make sure your camber link turnbuckles are the same length and put them at -1*

It's much easier to adjust all of that with the car turned on do that the servo holds the wheels still.
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