fq06

iTrader: (12)

If you need the type B motor guard, do you have the type B RR hinge pin holder that has the notch for the type B motor guard to slide into?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I believe so. it comes in that pack with the other various hingepin holders right for the type b right?

I basically got the car build up less the motor mount. the previous owner of my other vehicle had a butter smooth ball diff already built so installed that last night, just need to mount up the motor guard.

Do you guys recommend going alloy for that rear hingepin ? if so, for hte loose conditions what do you recommend? was looking at the -2 mount ormaybe something offered from exotek? just not sure what exaclty to get.

Looking to order tonight so any suggestions would be great.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

OK, I got the aluminum RR holder. Maybe the plastic pack does come with it, didn't notice. The A part has no notch for the tab on the motor guard to key into... its flat on the bottom. Type B does have the notch for the tab to slide into between the chassis and the holder.

A few pages back I asked about the RR holder and there were a few suggestions. Fred suggested the exotek I believe it was for the FR that had slide in shims to adjust anti squat instead of having to tear it apart. That is on my list to get. For the RR holder I would think the LRC holder would be the hot ticket for loose tracks. I run indoor clay so I got the regular one, not LRC.

I think the exotek RR also requires you to notch the chassis for arm clearance or something too... one of the aftermarket ones do at least.

Azagar

iTrader: (7)

Think you have it backwards, the LRC hanger benefits high traction tracks because a lower rear roll center decreases rear traction. Use the regular RR hanger for low traction tracks especially if it's a v1 chassis on your car otherwise you would need to fill in that now empty notch in the chassis with something. TD doesn't make a LRC v1 RR hanger but Exotek, Tresrey, and RDRP do if you ever decide to go that route. All which would require removing material from the a-arms if still using the TD v1 chassis.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, RC can be confusing. You would think LRC would mean that it would keep the car flatter and HRC would allow it to roll... but its opposite of what you would think.

Here's a description of the part...
This is an optional Revolution Design Racing Products 1.5/3 RR LRC Suspension Mount. Revolution Design Racing Products LRC (Low Roll Center) suspension mounts are designed to lower the rear roll center and improve handling on medium and low-grip surfaces

Azagar

iTrader: (7)

Yea that does make sense, guess I had it backwards. And since almost everyone recommends LRC for RM and HRC for MM that would follow the recommend setup.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

what position do you guys recommend for a full size battery pack for loose conditions with the +8mm DimeC chassis?

Got the other car configured to rear motor as well. As it sits I think all I need now is just one rear motor guard for the dime chassis and I am all set.

snowman_evil

iTrader: (30)

Just a quick update to the issue I had with the Dex210 V1 binding gearbox. I bought a new V2 Gearbox along with every possible part in the gear box apart from the actual gear diff casing. I'm suspect that the casing may have had issues in the moulding and has to much material on the outter of the casing where the bearings sit against or even the outside of the casing hitting the gearbox.

I went to my LHS where my mate is a repairman and technician. We took apart another dex210 rtr that had never been driving only taken out of the box. We took out the gearbox and it suffered the exact same fault as what I'm having so it proves there's a binding issue with some of the gearbox's/gear diffs from factory moulding.

I'll be ordering the new gear diff casing today to test once it has arrived and report back again.

goszu

I'm no expert but for me and our low traction dusty track higher roll center with heavier diff oil worked better. I use all standard plastic parts and 7k diff oil.

snowman_evil

iTrader: (30)

Are the V2 front and rear arms backwards compatible with the V1?

ekt

iTrader: (4)

The rear arms are a direct fit. I would recommend the getting the v2 front tower and short shocks if you want to run the front arms though.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

The binding is coming from the layshaft spacer if you loosen the screws that go through to the motor plate the transmission is free, file a small amount off the spacer and it will spin free ,by the way i tried a v2 case and it was worse

goszu

I had the same issue. Sanded the edges of the bearing just a little bit.
Now it spins smooth and free.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

The whole high roll center/low roll center arm mount thing is really a misnomer. Thanks Losi for once again making the world dumber! If all you do is to change that block and not touch the camber link then yes the roll center changes. However if you run an lrc block and then either lower the inner camber link by 2mm or raise the outer by 2mm, it is restored and all you've done is mount your rear suspension 2mm lower. Another way to look at it is that you've raised your car and hence the Cg by 2mm in relation to the rear suspension with an lrc block. If you run the aluminum rear hubs, you'll have the outer vertical ball studs so you can get whatever roll center you want.

Dino_D

Normally if the grip is good you probably will want to use MM instead of RM

HRC with RM (blown out tracks) and LRC with MM (when grip is good)

I can tell you this. If you use HRC, it slides a little coming into the corner but its more a controlled side, because the suspension takes a set quicker but give you more grip on corner exit.

LRC give more grip on corner entry, as it won't slide as much, but when it breaks loose it's harder to catch. As when it takes a set, it is generally at mid corner. It will punish you if you are hard on the throttle on exit unless grip is good.