nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

You could do this mod I did with the original and It would probably still work with that broken chassis. Or I would recommend this on your next one atleast the rear plate.

ewashburnaf

iTrader: (14)

What chassis is being broken frequently... Dimec or Dimec20?

sparkwraps

iTrader: (34)

You need to work on your setup I think. I broke my dimec20 and went back to aluminum stock chassis and have it going great in blinky. TQ'ed last night then ran out of talent and finished third. It is good. Use it and play with setup.

Crazy Carl

iTrader: (7)

Guys here is something that worked for me:
Use the front bunper/skid plate from the DESC210.
Cut it flush with the front of the DEX210.
Grind with your dremels an angle for a smooth blend.
This will support the weak area between the holes.

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Would you mind posting a pic??

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Here is the part, if I understand correctly he cuts the front (where the 2 screw posts/webbing are) off flush with the front existing chassis bumper, and uses the 4 mounting holes and screws to help support the front kick-up. It would look a lot like other brands front bumpers, but being a thicker piece, it adds support to the chassis..One could let the the piece extend past a bit, and if/when there is an impact, maybe it wouldn't transfer to the chassis, and would possibly be spread through the 4 screws.? I haven't broken a chassis, and have been running one of each stiffness since they were available..

lv4sndz

iTrader: (-1)

Ok sorry that was a very vague question. My 210 has the carbon towers, carbon steering upgrade and front brass piece, were the camber links attach to, also has the chassis weight 30g. It also has the tresrey rear pivot mounts. The track I run at is about 80x30 and changes every couple of months, layout that is. Its a very high bite track also. Was just wondering what parts to buy for this car. Also I just broke the rear camber mount that mounts off the tranny. I did find the rear camber plate that tresrey makes and I'm getting that. Also what tranny configuration does every one prefer?

ewashburnaf

iTrader: (14)

People have been very successful with all types of different configurations. RM3, MM4, etc. you will just have to make adjustments based on that to get where you want. Pick one and see where it goes after a few weeks of messing with it, then change it up and try a whole different setup.

nismomike

iTrader: (6)

Only thing I have ever broken was the stock rear hubs. Upgraded to the aluminum Durango hubs and problem solved. What track do you run at? That would really help us be able to get you dialed in.

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

Bummer..mine broke in the front, right where the screw holes are, it happened in practice, I got hit by a SC truck and it wasn't that bad of a hit, it shouldn't have broke as easily as it did..if fact it was still drivable just wasn't handling that well, and personally I don't think the weight of the stock chassis is a deal breaker to me in the 17.5 class..I mean seriously how big of a difference is their? I mean I'm adding weight..and power wise I'm competitive in the 17.5 class.

Walkman

iTrader: (29)

I don't get where all these people are saying the aluminum chassis is to heavy, especially to run 17.5. Look into how much everything else you have on the car weights, example how long are the ESC-battery wires, Motor wires, senor wire, how much velcro do you have holding the body on? If you are using velcro shave the body posts off. All these little areas hide a ton of weight that can be shed easily and free.

I have my car in MM4 with aluminum chassis, Lunsford turnbuckle kit, hinge pin kit, and with my shorty in race dress my car is currently at 1538 grams. This is only 39 grams over the minimum ROAR weight.

I changed turnbuckles because the front left ball cup kept popping. I dont know why as my turnbuckle can almost be adjusted with your fingers, so there was no binding at all. Anyway the Lunsford's have been perfect.

JS

iTrader: (70)

Great idea. Thanks for the tip

JS

iTrader: (70)

For me the stock chassis was perfect in Mod.
The alu chassis works for others with their type of track, etc.
Tried the same setup for Blinky and it was a slug - lol.
Trimmed off as much weight as I can and still a slug.

Finally put on the Dimec. Difference in chassis weight alone was 60g.
Plus the added flex on the Dimec created more traction.
Not to mention added stability with the longer chassis.

I really got the Dex where I wanted it in Blinky.
Threw on some slicks and it was finally dialed.

I will get another Dimec and give it another shot.

I will just cut up the rear of the alu chassis and use as a brace (Nolimit's tip).

Maybe if someone can make a plastic rear skid plate......

nismomike

iTrader: (6)

I just switched to running stock, and now I need to do something about weight. Right now I am still in basic kit form aside from aluminum rear hubs. So this is basically stage 1 of my diet and as I cut weight I will post progress.


I have the +8 Dimec and the painter is finishing up soon. Also have a Futaba BLS551 servo (44gr) coming. I also plan to get the milled motor plate, vented slipper plates, and titanium turnbuckles/ballstuds. I would like to be around 1550grams or under. Adding is easier than subtracting.

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

Here is a picture of alternative cut area and screw mounting positions for my mod.
Also its the Dimec 20 the stiffer one that breaks more frequently. Mine is a Dimec and I seen stress markings around one of the front holes which prompted the mod.

The front you can cut around where the red line is and sand it flush with the flat bottom portion of the chassis.
The Rear you dont need to use as much material as I have. Red line/circles for same material as me, green or blue for less. I just recommend cutting it down alittle longer then you expect to use it as and bevel the edge down till satisfied.

Performance gains/losses:
It doesn't interfere or catch on the ground. I run on a soft clay and thought it might at first but it hasn't. A shorter rear plate might but if you bevel the edge enough you shouldn't you just might need more of a slant then mine has. I just adjust ride height 2.5mm less then what I want so for 21 i set gauge for 18.5 and so forth.

Stiffer- the mod makes it stiffer especially if you use as much material as I have. The front if you cut it down to where I have drawn on the picture I wont make the front stiffer like mine has. The rear also same thing shorter the plate the less effect it will have on the stiffness of the chassis.
So if you have the stiff chassis already you might opt for shorter plates, I just have the reg one so I wanted it stiffer for my track conditions.