T4 Owners Post Here!
05-03-2004, 11:11 AM
#316
Tech Fanatic
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Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
I break the diff in a little differently, in case it breaks in and starts to slip (slipping is ALWAYS bad).
1) Hold the truck up off the ground or table by the motorplate, with all four wheels off the surface
2) Put one rear tire on the surface, and apply a little bit of throttle and let it spin the lifted tire for about 10 seconds
3) Repeat for the opposite side, and then over again, about 5 times.
To check the diff while it's in the truck (just like the allen wrench test, but while it's in the car):
1) Tighten the slipper all the way down
2) Hold the right rear tire and the spur gear with your right hand
3) Try to turn the left tire...again, it shouldn't move!
To check your slipper, adjust your slipper where you like it, and then perform the same test again. The nut and spring will turn if done correctly.
This is basically what stu said, but it's easier on your hands
I break the diff in a little differently, in case it breaks in and starts to slip (slipping is ALWAYS bad).
1) Hold the truck up off the ground or table by the motorplate, with all four wheels off the surface
2) Put one rear tire on the surface, and apply a little bit of throttle and let it spin the lifted tire for about 10 seconds
3) Repeat for the opposite side, and then over again, about 5 times.
To check the diff while it's in the truck (just like the allen wrench test, but while it's in the car):
1) Tighten the slipper all the way down
2) Hold the right rear tire and the spur gear with your right hand
3) Try to turn the left tire...again, it shouldn't move!
To check your slipper, adjust your slipper where you like it, and then perform the same test again. The nut and spring will turn if done correctly.
This is basically what stu said, but it's easier on your hands
Like I said I could be wrong but that is the way I have been taught. If you spin the right and the nut on the slipper spins you are good. If not and the diff spins it is too loose.
Last edited by Aaron Waldron; 05-03-2004 at 03:27 PM.
05-03-2004, 03:29 PM
#317
anemic - There's an edit button dude..don't need to post again to correct something 
It doesn't matter which tire you hold; it is physically impossible for that to loosen the diff. In order for the diff to loosen in that manner, there would have to be something holding the head of the screw from turning while you turn the left tire.
It doesn't matter which tire you hold; it is physically impossible for that to loosen the diff. In order for the diff to loosen in that manner, there would have to be something holding the head of the screw from turning while you turn the left tire.
05-05-2004, 01:01 AM
#318
Hi all.
I'm awaiting the delivery of my T4.
I have deceided to run a brushless set up.
I was going to get a hacker 7 turn motor. With a Schultz speedo.
Does anybody know what gearing would be best suited for this setup.
I have also ordered the threaded shocks, Full carbon kit, Rpm ball cups, milled motor plate. factory blue aluminium shock caps.
Do I need anything else for it that you guys can think of??
I'm awaiting the delivery of my T4.
I have deceided to run a brushless set up.
I was going to get a hacker 7 turn motor. With a Schultz speedo.
Does anybody know what gearing would be best suited for this setup.
I have also ordered the threaded shocks, Full carbon kit, Rpm ball cups, milled motor plate. factory blue aluminium shock caps.
Do I need anything else for it that you guys can think of??
05-05-2004, 07:10 AM
#319
Tech Apprentice
A few more minor things that I would suggest. Order the heavy duty servo spring and change out all your turnbuckles to titanium and buy the blue nut kit and get rid of those plastic shock nuts on the towers...Idon't know what they were thinking putting those plastic nuts in there kits. The last thing that I don't like is the plastic front wheel nuts, but I havn't found anyone that recomends changing them out...everyone says to stay with the plastic??? RPM makes a great motor cover that far exceeds the peice of____ that they send you from factory. The last little thing that looks great is Trinity's alluminum blue hinge pin brace. it's stronger and looks good. Theres more but that will get you going with out the breaks and having to replace them all any way
05-05-2004, 10:52 AM
#320
The last thing that I don't like is the plastic front wheel nuts,
I hated those to...
Pick up a set of front axle's for the B-4... its a cool setup, gets ride of the wheel nuts and gives you a shaft for the bearings, then holds the wheel on with a flat head alen screw. Thats what I run, and its great
Pick up a set of front axle's for the B-4... its a cool setup, gets ride of the wheel nuts and gives you a shaft for the bearings, then holds the wheel on with a flat head alen screw. Thats what I run, and its great
05-05-2004, 07:39 PM
#321
HeY!!!
i would also get the treaded shocks, and i would also get the pink taper pins from losi, those seem to work awesome where i race on nice tacky track.
i would also get the treaded shocks, and i would also get the pink taper pins from losi, those seem to work awesome where i race on nice tacky track.
05-05-2004, 09:24 PM
#322
Pink compound really only works on damp and sticky clay..they will absolutely not work on normal dirt and most outdoor tracks; you're better off with Red in those situations.
05-05-2004, 11:45 PM
#323
Ok it has just arrived.
I did get a rpm gear cover forgot about that.
I have some nuts somewhere that will fit for the front wheels and the shocks.
So when I get a chance I'll build it up and post some pics.
I did get a rpm gear cover forgot about that.
I have some nuts somewhere that will fit for the front wheels and the shocks.
So when I get a chance I'll build it up and post some pics.
05-06-2004, 03:05 AM
#324
OK all built.
Kit fitted together perfect. Only took me two hours to build.
The only problem was I ordered the wrong rpm cups.
Have to buy some paint tomorrow and paint a shell so I can take it out on the weekend for a club meeting.
I am waiting for a brushless set up but I have an old 16D I'll throw in. Might be a little underpowered but we'll see how she goes.
I'll post some pics after I paint it hopefully tomorrow.
Kit fitted together perfect. Only took me two hours to build.
The only problem was I ordered the wrong rpm cups.
Have to buy some paint tomorrow and paint a shell so I can take it out on the weekend for a club meeting.
I am waiting for a brushless set up but I have an old 16D I'll throw in. Might be a little underpowered but we'll see how she goes.
I'll post some pics after I paint it hopefully tomorrow.
Last edited by Ybakoff; 05-25-2004 at 02:55 AM.
05-19-2004, 08:37 PM
#325
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=29757
there's my T4.. loaded with FT.. bam.. seems to be nice.. haven't driven it yet.. if it's anything like the B4.. it will be dialed
there's my T4.. loaded with FT.. bam.. seems to be nice.. haven't driven it yet.. if it's anything like the B4.. it will be dialed
05-21-2004, 08:57 AM
#326
HeY!!!
So when do you plan to bust out the T4 then??? i'm sure you'll love it!!!
So when do you plan to bust out the T4 then??? i'm sure you'll love it!!!
05-27-2004, 08:47 AM
#329
HeY!!!
Gary why you gonna need that info.??? i thought you couldn't race it because you have to cover the race or what ever???
Gary why you gonna need that info.??? i thought you couldn't race it because you have to cover the race or what ever???
05-27-2004, 08:51 AM
#330
I can race when I do coverage. I actualy fell I do a better job in my coverage when I do race the event myself as well, more of an insider view so to speak. BUT, I didn't get into the RROC, I'm like 15th on the waiting list. I was thinking about heading to SoCal Friday night instead to do some racing instead. The RROC is Saturday/Sunday