JRX Pro S.E.
05-02-2007, 12:15 PM
#1
JRX Pro S.E.
My apologies if this information is widely available but I don't have time to search the forums (at work).
I've got an old Team Losi JRX PRO S.E. with the XX tranny and Hydra Drive. The car is in pristine condition. I only ran it about a dozen times before shelving it. I sort of lost interest in the hobby.
Well, I'm looking to get back into it but I think I'll just stick with this car for now. I'd like to know if there's a place that still sells parts for it. Mainly the tranny but I'm sure the shock cartridges are in need of replacement too. The tranny still feels butter smooth but I was curious to know if parts were still available for it (diff balls, rings, etc.)
I've been out of this hobby since pre-2000. I hail from the days when the name Masami Hirosaka struck fear in the heart of many (for all I know he still could) so any changes with tech like batteries, motors, radios etc would be helpful too.
Thanks all.
I've got an old Team Losi JRX PRO S.E. with the XX tranny and Hydra Drive. The car is in pristine condition. I only ran it about a dozen times before shelving it. I sort of lost interest in the hobby.
Well, I'm looking to get back into it but I think I'll just stick with this car for now. I'd like to know if there's a place that still sells parts for it. Mainly the tranny but I'm sure the shock cartridges are in need of replacement too. The tranny still feels butter smooth but I was curious to know if parts were still available for it (diff balls, rings, etc.)
I've been out of this hobby since pre-2000. I hail from the days when the name Masami Hirosaka struck fear in the heart of many (for all I know he still could) so any changes with tech like batteries, motors, radios etc would be helpful too.
Thanks all.
05-02-2007, 12:32 PM
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: ROAR HAD ME BANNED FROM RC TECH.
Posts: 2,025
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
I've got an old Team Losi JRX PRO S.E. with the XX tranny and Hydra Drive. The car is in pristine condition. I only ran it about a dozen times before shelving it. I sort of lost interest in the hobby.
The investment is minimal, for less than $200 you can get a XXX-CR. Personally I'd clean up the JRX PRO, put a cool car stand underneath it and put it in my display case.
05-02-2007, 12:37 PM
#4
Parts are getting harder to find for these.
Best source for parts is old hobby stores with old stock hanging around and ebay.
As far as rebuilding the shocks, you can use the cartridges used in the modern buggies.
The outer transmission housings for the xx retrofit are like gold on ebay.
The diff rings are used in the modern stuff still. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA3070
The Diff Thrust balls are all standard parts available from all sorts of companies. Diff 3/32 and thrust 1/16.
The Diff gears are still available.
It is the arms, chassis, shock towers and such that are getting harder to find.
You can still get bodies (not losi brand) from http://www.vansinvent.com/ . The bought out Dahms a few years ago and continue to offer bodies from the old molds.
Best source for parts is old hobby stores with old stock hanging around and ebay.
As far as rebuilding the shocks, you can use the cartridges used in the modern buggies.
The outer transmission housings for the xx retrofit are like gold on ebay.
The diff rings are used in the modern stuff still. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA3070
The Diff Thrust balls are all standard parts available from all sorts of companies. Diff 3/32 and thrust 1/16.
The Diff gears are still available.
It is the arms, chassis, shock towers and such that are getting harder to find.
You can still get bodies (not losi brand) from http://www.vansinvent.com/ . The bought out Dahms a few years ago and continue to offer bodies from the old molds.
10-04-2008, 12:40 PM
#5
Tech Rookie
Sorry if this has been asked before...couldn't find anything using search. Anyone know where I can find a manual for the Pro SE?
10-04-2008, 06:36 PM
#6
http://vintagelosi.com/Manuals.html
You have to use the Jrx-Pro and the SE Addendum. There isn't a dedicated Pro SE manual. Possibly the XX retro tranny manual too depending on what ya got.
I agree that you shouldn’t plan on doing anything beyond an occasional easy fun run with something this old, many parts aren’t available.
If you want to give it a go again at low cost, there are lots of relatively cheap used XXXs available that can still be repaired and updated.
Last edited by Dave H; 10-04-2008 at 06:56 PM.
10-04-2008, 10:39 PM
#7
Tech Rookie
Yeah, I've been to vintagelosi. The addendum really doesn't help me, but thanks.
10-04-2008, 11:02 PM
#8
If you want to get back into r/c.. I'd say sell it! You should be able to get enough to buy a new losi buggy.. probably a XXX BK1 or BK2 which still has parts available and even shares some of the newer CR parts...
I've seen good race rollers going for around $100.. many less. these are still top level buggies and are often preferred over the newer CR.
Good luck!
Jerome
I've seen good race rollers going for around $100.. many less. these are still top level buggies and are often preferred over the newer CR.
Good luck!
Jerome
10-05-2008, 03:36 AM
#9
10-06-2008, 08:11 PM
#10
Tech Rookie
Cool. Thanks. Is there a spacer between the rear bulkhead and rear shock tower like on the LXT? Also what size/type of screws are used on it? I'm assuming flat head, but not sure of the exact size.
10-06-2008, 08:49 PM
#11
If you want to get back into r/c.. I'd say sell it! You should be able to get enough to buy a new losi buggy.. probably a XXX BK1 or BK2 which still has parts available and even shares some of the newer CR parts...
I've seen good race rollers going for around $100.. many less. these are still top level buggies and are often preferred over the newer CR.
Good luck!
Jerome
I've seen good race rollers going for around $100.. many less. these are still top level buggies and are often preferred over the newer CR.
Good luck!
Jerome
10-06-2008, 11:40 PM
#13
A lot of people still like the older BK1 and BK2 because both the plastic and graphite parts are much better than the EA3 plastic. This along with just about every metal part.. the new cars have lots of "Made in China" components. Losi used to be a step above the rest.. now they are just the same as everybody else when I comes to quality of parts. Still all good cars.. just not better anymore...
Jerome
10-07-2008, 06:51 AM
#14
Chris,
A lot of people still like the older BK1 and BK2 because both the plastic and graphite parts are much better than the EA3 plastic. This along with just about every metal part.. the new cars have lots of "Made in China" components. Losi used to be a step above the rest.. now they are just the same as everybody else when I comes to quality of parts. Still all good cars.. just not better anymore...
Jerome
A lot of people still like the older BK1 and BK2 because both the plastic and graphite parts are much better than the EA3 plastic. This along with just about every metal part.. the new cars have lots of "Made in China" components. Losi used to be a step above the rest.. now they are just the same as everybody else when I comes to quality of parts. Still all good cars.. just not better anymore...
Jerome
10-07-2008, 08:57 AM
#15
It is in the manual, just no fancy pictures.
Page 1 to be exact. In the addendum.
Fig 2 is the section.
In summary, you should mount the bulkhead all the way forward and not use the rear mount holes. This means you don't need the spacer, unless you want longer wheel base.
That being said, modern nimh batteries are a pain to squeeze in the chassis unless you hack the front battery strap area or mount the bulkhead farther back and leave out the spacer. (not sure on a lipo)
Page 1 to be exact. In the addendum.
Fig 2 is the section.
In summary, you should mount the bulkhead all the way forward and not use the rear mount holes. This means you don't need the spacer, unless you want longer wheel base.
That being said, modern nimh batteries are a pain to squeeze in the chassis unless you hack the front battery strap area or mount the bulkhead farther back and leave out the spacer. (not sure on a lipo)