RC10T4 Problems???
#31
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I also think the newer B4s come with the b44 rear wheels--they have the dish like a Losi wheel instead of the old recess for the nut in the center.
#32
#33
"black box" isn't a special edition. Its simply the newer B4/T4 FTs starting from maybe nov 07. They are supposed to be the same as the older FT, the only real differences are plastic instead of graphite chassis (I don't think anyone liked the graphite chassis), rubber instead of teflon bearings, slightly different shock ends,--the shock quality has gone down hill--newer ti-ni shafts aren't as durable nor as smooth, the black rubber bearings aren't very good IMO, and the overall quality has taken a hit on the black box stuff. They are still awesome cars and its still totally worth getting a new T4, but I don't think the quality is the same as on the older "sealed" kits. The black boxes are still sealed with the small associated sticker but they got rid of the saran wrap covering.
I also think the newer B4s come with the b44 rear wheels--they have the dish like a Losi wheel instead of the old recess for the nut in the center.
I also think the newer B4s come with the b44 rear wheels--they have the dish like a Losi wheel instead of the old recess for the nut in the center.
I have noticed the quality of some of the companies has gone down hill since the RTR's started taking over the hobby. For instance the new XXXtcr a few guys that bought them at the local track said that the rear end has a lot of play and the parts don't fit as good as they used to.
#34
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
"black box" isn't a special edition. Its simply the newer B4/T4 FTs starting from maybe nov 07. They are supposed to be the same as the older FT, the only real differences are plastic instead of graphite chassis (I don't think anyone liked the graphite chassis), rubber instead of teflon bearings, slightly different shock ends,--the shock quality has gone down hill--newer ti-ni shafts aren't as durable nor as smooth, the black rubber bearings aren't very good IMO, and the overall quality has taken a hit on the black box stuff. They are still awesome cars and its still totally worth getting a new T4, but I don't think the quality is the same as on the older "sealed" kits. The black boxes are still sealed with the small associated sticker but they got rid of the saran wrap covering.
I also think the newer B4s come with the b44 rear wheels--they have the dish like a Losi wheel instead of the old recess for the nut in the center.
I also think the newer B4s come with the b44 rear wheels--they have the dish like a Losi wheel instead of the old recess for the nut in the center.
#35
If anything from my experience the gold shock shafts wear longer and are smoother then the old unobtainium shafts ....
and
How bout the new Transmission main gear and top shaft or the improved outdrives ?
oops ..
You guys forget the new wheels ?
and
How bout the new Transmission main gear and top shaft or the improved outdrives ?
oops ..
You guys forget the new wheels ?
#37
The top is coated
and the out drives are harder, so they wear better, just like the Gold shock shafts ....
and the out drives are harder, so they wear better, just like the Gold shock shafts ....
#38
#39
That's why grey was preferred.
The new black drives weight is not much different from the grey, so that why I use um now...
also
the black drives make for a smoother diff that wears better specially with the Gt-2 main gear now included ...
#40
Tech Regular
T4 in the black box are maybe those made in taiwan by thunder tiger ? Like the RC8
#41
#42
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Just to clarify: on the older T4 I was referring to the "glossy" ti-nitride (gold) shafts, not the carbonitride (grey) shafts that came on the latest bj4 we, and I assume very old Ft t4/b4. The new gold shafts have a dull, matte look to them--and are ok but not like the old shafts. Also, the new shocks seemed to be machined incorrectly as it is very easy for the shock cartridge to pop up and let all the oil leak out. I don't think its a problem with the plastic clip, I think the shocks are machined wrong. The shocks ends will split right down the mold parting line if you aren't careful installing the shock eyelet ball--on the new cars.
Also, another crappy new part is the tan diff gear. I am still running the entire original trans in my t4 which is about 16 months old now and has gotten alot of use/abuse. The black diff gear is perfect as is the original idler and original top shaft. The tan diff gear simply doesn't last that long.
One more thing is that on the newer steering racks it seems on of the cranks isn't molded perfectly straight--so when you put the bearings in it and tighten it down it actually binds on one of the rack screws because the bearings are not sitting inline. When I installed a new rack on my t4 I had to use one of my old cranks to eliminate the binding. Every new rack I have seen has had this issue. The steering will bind big time if you use all the new parts.
The rubber sealed bearings are honestly some of the cheapest, worst bearings sold in any kit I have come across. They truly are cheap junk. I always thought the old teflon ones were a pretty nice bearing but now I just get the $1 Avid ones and chuck them when they get a little rough.
The new style B4 wheels are flimsy and made of a brittle material. I liked the orignal ones better but I always thought the Losi wheels were/are better than both--I ran those even with my b4.
The anodizing is different on the newer alloy parts. There are alot of little differences throughout the entire car.
I had an older box T4 I sold to a friend a while ago, if I still had it I am sure I could get more than retail for it. If you come across an old white box b4/t4 sealed kit, jump on it. Its a superior car to the new ones.
Also, another crappy new part is the tan diff gear. I am still running the entire original trans in my t4 which is about 16 months old now and has gotten alot of use/abuse. The black diff gear is perfect as is the original idler and original top shaft. The tan diff gear simply doesn't last that long.
One more thing is that on the newer steering racks it seems on of the cranks isn't molded perfectly straight--so when you put the bearings in it and tighten it down it actually binds on one of the rack screws because the bearings are not sitting inline. When I installed a new rack on my t4 I had to use one of my old cranks to eliminate the binding. Every new rack I have seen has had this issue. The steering will bind big time if you use all the new parts.
The rubber sealed bearings are honestly some of the cheapest, worst bearings sold in any kit I have come across. They truly are cheap junk. I always thought the old teflon ones were a pretty nice bearing but now I just get the $1 Avid ones and chuck them when they get a little rough.
The new style B4 wheels are flimsy and made of a brittle material. I liked the orignal ones better but I always thought the Losi wheels were/are better than both--I ran those even with my b4.
The anodizing is different on the newer alloy parts. There are alot of little differences throughout the entire car.
I had an older box T4 I sold to a friend a while ago, if I still had it I am sure I could get more than retail for it. If you come across an old white box b4/t4 sealed kit, jump on it. Its a superior car to the new ones.
#43
I think the one I am looking at in the LHS is in a white box. I will have to have a look next time I am there.
The more posts I read the more it seems like the RC10T4 is having the same growing pain as the XXXT with all the stuff being made over seas now.
The more posts I read the more it seems like the RC10T4 is having the same growing pain as the XXXT with all the stuff being made over seas now.