4wd Buggy Brushed Motor Selection Help
07-17-2008, 07:43 PM
#16
I would get a checkpoint 10-11 turn. Or an orion oscar jansen 10-11 turn. they are both well suited for 4wd and will be very fast. Keep your practice to around 5-6min and allow the motor to cool and it will treat you well. Good luck.
p.s if you track is real dusty the check point is probably a better choice.
p.s if you track is real dusty the check point is probably a better choice.
07-17-2008, 09:20 PM
#17
I'll second what someone else said and tell you that you can't go wrong with a Checkpoint for a brushed motor. I run a Tebo 4wd 9T in my B44 and love it. It's a heckuva lot of motor, last time they had a radar gun on us down the straights I was hitting the same speed as the 1/8 and truggies on the back straight before we all had to shut down for the corner. But, the tracks we have here are good sized and really set up for 1/8 so it works well. I ran it on a 1/10 only track a few months back and it was a handful, if we had raced 4wd that day I would have geared it down. If your indoor track is tight, I'm guessing a 11 x 2 Checkpoint would be about right. That's what I run in my T4 and it's still quite a bit of motor. As far as the motors being meant for TC, offroad, 4wd, etc. try to stay with something thats says offroad. Sometimes the arms, brushes, etc. are different and you'll usually have softer brushes (and longer comm life) from an offroad motor.
I would get a checkpoint 10-11 turn. Or an orion oscar jansen 10-11 turn. they are both well suited for 4wd and will be very fast. Keep your practice to around 5-6min and allow the motor to cool and it will treat you well. Good luck.
p.s if you track is real dusty the check point is probably a better choice.
p.s if you track is real dusty the check point is probably a better choice.
07-17-2008, 10:37 PM
#18
If your really looking to fly the 11t will do fine but from your description i figured you were learning to drive a track. Maybe build a small one. Thats gonna be alot of motor.
I have been to many trackas and going to another this weekend. I am using the new vortex 2008 7.5 race motor and it feels alittle slower or smoother then my peak 7.5. You don't need mega- motor to lay down fast laptimes. If anything it will promote overdriving the car which is pretty common for a first time 4wheeler. I tend to do it on occasion. It's a really fast pace race.
I have been to many trackas and going to another this weekend. I am using the new vortex 2008 7.5 race motor and it feels alittle slower or smoother then my peak 7.5. You don't need mega- motor to lay down fast laptimes. If anything it will promote overdriving the car which is pretty common for a first time 4wheeler. I tend to do it on occasion. It's a really fast pace race.
07-18-2008, 06:13 AM
#19
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
When you talk about Team Brood, Banzai, etc. you're usually talking about companies that wind their own arms and then install them into the manufacturers cans/endbells. I know Banzai makes Checkpoints 'cause I have a couple, don't know about Team Brood. The reason I prefer Checkpoint over v-brush (Orion, Peak, etc.) is that there are actual tabs to solder to and its easier to get a good joint.
You don't run more than 5-6 minutes b/c it will overheat a brushed motor. Esp in 4wd, the motors are working much harder. Every 5 runs or so pull it out of the car, uncap the brushes and springs and pull them out. Spray the motor and brushes clean with electric moto spray. Let it dry and relube with bearing oil (Trinity Royal oil or similar). If you don't have a comm lathe you'll need to get one eventually or find someone at the track that can do it for you. Figure every 20-25 runs or so you need to skim comm an dreplace brushes to keep good performance.
There's truth in what RBfive posted. Like my buddy Biff says, "Slow is fast". Drag races are won in the straights, offroad is won in the corners and rhythm sections. Practice learning to carry speed into the corners (while still holding your line) and getting on the throttle early on exit, and getting through the whoops smoothly and you'll go far. If you have a 2wd car somewhere, nothing teaches that like practicing 2wd Stock.
Edit: BTW, why is TexasPete in the ATL, LOL?
You don't run more than 5-6 minutes b/c it will overheat a brushed motor. Esp in 4wd, the motors are working much harder. Every 5 runs or so pull it out of the car, uncap the brushes and springs and pull them out. Spray the motor and brushes clean with electric moto spray. Let it dry and relube with bearing oil (Trinity Royal oil or similar). If you don't have a comm lathe you'll need to get one eventually or find someone at the track that can do it for you. Figure every 20-25 runs or so you need to skim comm an dreplace brushes to keep good performance.
There's truth in what RBfive posted. Like my buddy Biff says, "Slow is fast". Drag races are won in the straights, offroad is won in the corners and rhythm sections. Practice learning to carry speed into the corners (while still holding your line) and getting on the throttle early on exit, and getting through the whoops smoothly and you'll go far. If you have a 2wd car somewhere, nothing teaches that like practicing 2wd Stock.
Edit: BTW, why is TexasPete in the ATL, LOL?
07-18-2008, 11:10 AM
#20
If your really looking to fly the 11t will do fine but from your description i figured you were learning to drive a track. Maybe build a small one. Thats gonna be alot of motor.
I have been to many trackas and going to another this weekend. I am using the new vortex 2008 7.5 race motor and it feels alittle slower or smoother then my peak 7.5. You don't need mega- motor to lay down fast laptimes. If anything it will promote overdriving the car which is pretty common for a first time 4wheeler. I tend to do it on occasion. It's a really fast pace race.
I have been to many trackas and going to another this weekend. I am using the new vortex 2008 7.5 race motor and it feels alittle slower or smoother then my peak 7.5. You don't need mega- motor to lay down fast laptimes. If anything it will promote overdriving the car which is pretty common for a first time 4wheeler. I tend to do it on occasion. It's a really fast pace race.
When you talk about Team Brood, Banzai, etc. you're usually talking about companies that wind their own arms and then install them into the manufacturers cans/endbells. I know Banzai makes Checkpoints 'cause I have a couple, don't know about Team Brood. The reason I prefer Checkpoint over v-brush (Orion, Peak, etc.) is that there are actual tabs to solder to and its easier to get a good joint.
You don't run more than 5-6 minutes b/c it will overheat a brushed motor. Esp in 4wd, the motors are working much harder. Every 5 runs or so pull it out of the car, uncap the brushes and springs and pull them out. Spray the motor and brushes clean with electric moto spray. Let it dry and relube with bearing oil (Trinity Royal oil or similar). If you don't have a comm lathe you'll need to get one eventually or find someone at the track that can do it for you. Figure every 20-25 runs or so you need to skim comm an dreplace brushes to keep good performance.
There's truth in what RBfive posted. Like my buddy Biff says, "Slow is fast". Drag races are won in the straights, offroad is won in the corners and rhythm sections. Practice learning to carry speed into the corners (while still holding your line) and getting on the throttle early on exit, and getting through the whoops smoothly and you'll go far. If you have a 2wd car somewhere, nothing teaches that like practicing 2wd Stock.
Edit: BTW, why is TexasPete in the ATL, LOL?
You don't run more than 5-6 minutes b/c it will overheat a brushed motor. Esp in 4wd, the motors are working much harder. Every 5 runs or so pull it out of the car, uncap the brushes and springs and pull them out. Spray the motor and brushes clean with electric moto spray. Let it dry and relube with bearing oil (Trinity Royal oil or similar). If you don't have a comm lathe you'll need to get one eventually or find someone at the track that can do it for you. Figure every 20-25 runs or so you need to skim comm an dreplace brushes to keep good performance.
There's truth in what RBfive posted. Like my buddy Biff says, "Slow is fast". Drag races are won in the straights, offroad is won in the corners and rhythm sections. Practice learning to carry speed into the corners (while still holding your line) and getting on the throttle early on exit, and getting through the whoops smoothly and you'll go far. If you have a 2wd car somewhere, nothing teaches that like practicing 2wd Stock.
Edit: BTW, why is TexasPete in the ATL, LOL?
TexasPete is from the great state of Texas and still considers it home but life is good in the ATL!!!! And more importantly TexasPete loves the hotsauce, hence the name! There are a few other reasons for the name choice but we wont go into those! hahahahahaaaa
07-18-2008, 10:32 PM
#21
It sounds like you are making a good decision. I just got back onto the sport and raced my xxx4 the other day for the first time since '03 at socal for the annual supercross race and i wish i had put a 13 turn in, my revolution 9x2 was a bad choice for oc/rc especially for how small the jumps are and the tight sections. It would of helped if my car had a better set-up tho. Basically what im trying to get to is slower is faster like another user said.
07-18-2008, 11:14 PM
#22
Slower is Faster...not when you are waiting on your new buggy to come from TowerHobbies!
I do understand what you are saying and I appreciate the input Tater.
I do understand what you are saying and I appreciate the input Tater.
07-19-2008, 05:20 AM
#23
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
LOL, I knew I liked you. Grew up in Huntsville but have been in Sugar Land since '91. 13T Checkpoint is an excellent motor, that's what I run in 2wd. When your skills outgrow that motor you can just buy a B4 and throw it in there, then get a 9T for your 4wd, ha ha ha.
07-19-2008, 05:27 AM
#24
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Pete, the other thing you'll have to learn for racing is how to set your car up. If you go to a big race you really don't get a lot of track time b/c everyone is of course trying to get track time. You have to know what changes to make and how they'll affect your car. The link below has a lot of good info. It's sensory overload for sure. I printed this stuff out when I first started, and then just kind of learned it piece by piece. Started with simple stuff like ride height and springs, etc. and when I had it figured out moved on to the others. It took me several years to feel like I had most of it figured out, but I'm just an old dumb Aggie so you may get it faster.
http://users.pandora.be/elvo/
http://users.pandora.be/elvo/
07-19-2008, 10:00 AM
#25
It seems you are spending a good deal of money on a brushed motor--(Checkpoint)-to really take advantage of it you want a good, modern ESC--for a bit more coin you could get an awesome brushless system which will let you have the same power run after run and day after day. An even bigger issue is that with low turn brushed motors in a 4wd buggy you can only run 7-8 minutes at a time before they really start cooking themselves. I can run my 6.5r/LRP Sphere combo for 20 minutes of practice or until the batteries dump with zero damage.
An LRP Sphere Comp and Novak 7.5R motor is a great combo for many tracks for 4wd. If you are going to upgrade to brushless eventuallly--why not skip brushed entirely? Higher intitial cost yes, but by the time you score a motor lathe, replacement brushes and springs and add a couple more arms and motors (brushed motors have a limited life span) you could have went brushless for the same money. I dont know a single person who ever plans to go back to brushed motors after running a good brushless motor/esc combo.
An LRP Sphere Comp and Novak 7.5R motor is a great combo for many tracks for 4wd. If you are going to upgrade to brushless eventuallly--why not skip brushed entirely? Higher intitial cost yes, but by the time you score a motor lathe, replacement brushes and springs and add a couple more arms and motors (brushed motors have a limited life span) you could have went brushless for the same money. I dont know a single person who ever plans to go back to brushed motors after running a good brushless motor/esc combo.
07-19-2008, 10:15 AM
#26
Suspended
AE.......................IS THE KILLER OF ALL! B4 & B44.. Both are Brushless! $
07-19-2008, 12:03 PM
#27
Pete, the other thing you'll have to learn for racing is how to set your car up. If you go to a big race you really don't get a lot of track time b/c everyone is of course trying to get track time. You have to know what changes to make and how they'll affect your car. The link below has a lot of good info. It's sensory overload for sure. I printed this stuff out when I first started, and then just kind of learned it piece by piece. Started with simple stuff like ride height and springs, etc. and when I had it figured out moved on to the others. It took me several years to feel like I had most of it figured out, but I'm just an old dumb Aggie so you may get it faster.
http://users.pandora.be/elvo/
http://users.pandora.be/elvo/
I took a quick drum through and this is an awesome link. Definitely sensory overload! Ill probably be up all night reading this...but who needs sleep anyway! Thank You!It seems you are spending a good deal of money on a brushed motor--(Checkpoint)-to really take advantage of it you want a good, modern ESC--for a bit more coin you could get an awesome brushless system which will let you have the same power run after run and day after day. An even bigger issue is that with low turn brushed motors in a 4wd buggy you can only run 7-8 minutes at a time before they really start cooking themselves. I can run my 6.5r/LRP Sphere combo for 20 minutes of practice or until the batteries dump with zero damage.
An LRP Sphere Comp and Novak 7.5R motor is a great combo for many tracks for 4wd. If you are going to upgrade to brushless eventuallly--why not skip brushed entirely? Higher intitial cost yes, but by the time you score a motor lathe, replacement brushes and springs and add a couple more arms and motors (brushed motors have a limited life span) you could have went brushless for the same money. I dont know a single person who ever plans to go back to brushed motors after running a good brushless motor/esc combo.
An LRP Sphere Comp and Novak 7.5R motor is a great combo for many tracks for 4wd. If you are going to upgrade to brushless eventuallly--why not skip brushed entirely? Higher intitial cost yes, but by the time you score a motor lathe, replacement brushes and springs and add a couple more arms and motors (brushed motors have a limited life span) you could have went brushless for the same money. I dont know a single person who ever plans to go back to brushed motors after running a good brushless motor/esc combo.
Let me add I never intended to change brushes and all that other jazz anyway...but then again i didnt realize you could only run these chuppies for a few minutes at a time either!
Last edited by TexasPete; 07-19-2008 at 12:05 PM. Reason: Needed to add a comment.
07-19-2008, 12:17 PM
#28
You do not have to get a super fast brushless like a 6.5 or 7.5--if too much speed was your concern.
You could try starting with a 13.5 for 2wd or truck and a 10.5 or 8.5 for 4wd--which will still be nice and punchy but not too crazy to learn how to drive on.
A checkpoint 13 turn is alot of motor to start out on.
The CC stuff seems to be ok but the LRP Sphere is known for being super smooth and easy to control--pair it with an 8.5 and you could always turn down throttle EPA to like 80% if its too fast.
I would totally skip over the brushed stuff--the brushless will keep you in electric and make you want to run it, brushed is just a PITA. And I used to be one of those guys who really liked building motors, cutting comms, aligning brush hoods and all the little tricks. I seriously do not miss brushed motors AT ALL!!
You could try starting with a 13.5 for 2wd or truck and a 10.5 or 8.5 for 4wd--which will still be nice and punchy but not too crazy to learn how to drive on.
A checkpoint 13 turn is alot of motor to start out on.
The CC stuff seems to be ok but the LRP Sphere is known for being super smooth and easy to control--pair it with an 8.5 and you could always turn down throttle EPA to like 80% if its too fast.
I would totally skip over the brushed stuff--the brushless will keep you in electric and make you want to run it, brushed is just a PITA. And I used to be one of those guys who really liked building motors, cutting comms, aligning brush hoods and all the little tricks. I seriously do not miss brushed motors AT ALL!!
07-19-2008, 12:27 PM
#29
i whould just buy some used mods off of here or even get the mamba sidewinder 5700 combo its only 130 bucks for the esc and motor and its compared to a turn brushed. and running a brushed motor heat is no good so u cant really run them that long with out smoking brushed motors
07-19-2008, 01:19 PM
#30
You do not have to get a super fast brushless like a 6.5 or 7.5--if too much speed was your concern.
You could try starting with a 13.5 for 2wd or truck and a 10.5 or 8.5 for 4wd--which will still be nice and punchy but not too crazy to learn how to drive on.
A checkpoint 13 turn is alot of motor to start out on.
The CC stuff seems to be ok but the LRP Sphere is known for being super smooth and easy to control--pair it with an 8.5 and you could always turn down throttle EPA to like 80% if its too fast.
I would totally skip over the brushed stuff--the brushless will keep you in electric and make you want to run it, brushed is just a PITA. And I used to be one of those guys who really liked building motors, cutting comms, aligning brush hoods and all the little tricks. I seriously do not miss brushed motors AT ALL!!
You could try starting with a 13.5 for 2wd or truck and a 10.5 or 8.5 for 4wd--which will still be nice and punchy but not too crazy to learn how to drive on.
A checkpoint 13 turn is alot of motor to start out on.
The CC stuff seems to be ok but the LRP Sphere is known for being super smooth and easy to control--pair it with an 8.5 and you could always turn down throttle EPA to like 80% if its too fast.
I would totally skip over the brushed stuff--the brushless will keep you in electric and make you want to run it, brushed is just a PITA. And I used to be one of those guys who really liked building motors, cutting comms, aligning brush hoods and all the little tricks. I seriously do not miss brushed motors AT ALL!!
i whould just buy some used mods off of here or even get the mamba sidewinder 5700 combo its only 130 bucks for the esc and motor and its compared to a turn brushed. and running a brushed motor heat is no good so u cant really run them that long with out smoking brushed motors