Clutch assembly Ofna 9.5 pro
#1
Clutch assembly Ofna 9.5 pro
Okay guys. Assume I know nothing (cause I really do). What is a good clutch assembly for a 9.5 pro and where can I buy one. I bought this buggy and the flywheel is too small for the starter box wheel to make contact. I believe it a bi-directional clutch that's in it now. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Ron
Thanks, Ron
#2
Try the Mugen MBX5 flywheel, springs, shoes, and clutchbell. I used them on my Pro when i was running it. Also, the flywheel opening on the Pro chassis is HUGE in comparison to the Mugen...i dont know how youre having a problem in the first place.
Check ebay for the complete set for rather cheap prices.
Check ebay for the complete set for rather cheap prices.
#4
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Are you using the flywheel that is supplied with the 9.5? If you are then don't get a Mugen or Kyosho flywheel because they are smaller in diameter than the OFNA's.
Did you put any washers or spacers under the motor mounts? If so, remove them.
Sometimes a starter box will have a large diameter wheel which may contact the chassis when it kisses the flywheel. Remove the 9.5 engine and see how the starter wheel lines up with the chassis' hole and if it will just make it into the opening. My stock 9.5 Pro has the stock flywheel about half a chassis thickness into the opening of the chassis.
Another thing you can do is to mill a little off the bottom of the motor mounts.
Did you put any washers or spacers under the motor mounts? If so, remove them.
Sometimes a starter box will have a large diameter wheel which may contact the chassis when it kisses the flywheel. Remove the 9.5 engine and see how the starter wheel lines up with the chassis' hole and if it will just make it into the opening. My stock 9.5 Pro has the stock flywheel about half a chassis thickness into the opening of the chassis.
Another thing you can do is to mill a little off the bottom of the motor mounts.
#5
or...you could dremel the opening of the flywheel slot in the chassis...i had to do this with my Mugen chassis when using the Ofna Chrome Top starter box. You could also shim the top of the starter box so that the motor starts spinning earlier and the wheel doesnt go into the slot as far.
You DONT want to start moving the location of the engine in relation to the center diff gear.
You DONT want to start moving the location of the engine in relation to the center diff gear.
#6
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Originally Posted by Crim3Wav3
or...you could dremel the opening of the flywheel slot in the chassis...i had to do this with my Mugen chassis when using the Ofna Chrome Top starter box. You could also shim the top of the starter box so that the motor starts spinning earlier and the wheel doesnt go into the slot as far.
You DONT want to start moving the location of the engine in relation to the center diff gear.
You DONT want to start moving the location of the engine in relation to the center diff gear.
Of course you don't want to move the engine because that will affect the gear mesh but you can lower the engine without affecting the mesh.
As I said before, I do have the 9.5 Pro with a Picco .21 engine and the flywheel that comes with it and with the stock motor mounts allow the flywheel to reside within the starter slot, not above the chassis but inside the slot. So he must not have the correct flywheel. (A new OFNA flywheel is around $20).
BTW What is a bi-directional clutch????
Last edited by AreCee; 03-07-2006 at 03:01 PM.
#8
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Originally Posted by SUNA
I was just asking this same question on another board.
I have a 9.5 Pro with a VSPEC. Was thinking of using OFNA clutch shoes. Not sure if I should go with the blue, purple or silver ones. Or should I even be using aluminum shoes...should I be going with carbon?
I have a 9.5 Pro with a VSPEC. Was thinking of using OFNA clutch shoes. Not sure if I should go with the blue, purple or silver ones. Or should I even be using aluminum shoes...should I be going with carbon?
Generally on high traction tracks with engines that develop power higher in their rpm range you will go with the light Al shoes and 1.0 or 1.1 springs. That gives you high grab at higher rpm.
On loose tracks you may opt for an earlier clutch engagement so you want the heavier shoes and or .9 or 1.0 springs.
Carbon shoes do not grab as aggressively as Al and give a little slip before engaging. They require less maintenance but will wear out faster, however, the CB will last longer.