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Clutch assembly Ofna 9.5 pro

Clutch assembly Ofna 9.5 pro

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Old 03-07-2006, 09:51 AM
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Default Clutch assembly Ofna 9.5 pro

Okay guys. Assume I know nothing (cause I really do). What is a good clutch assembly for a 9.5 pro and where can I buy one. I bought this buggy and the flywheel is too small for the starter box wheel to make contact. I believe it a bi-directional clutch that's in it now. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Ron
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:23 AM
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Try the Mugen MBX5 flywheel, springs, shoes, and clutchbell. I used them on my Pro when i was running it. Also, the flywheel opening on the Pro chassis is HUGE in comparison to the Mugen...i dont know how youre having a problem in the first place.

Check ebay for the complete set for rather cheap prices.
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:28 AM
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Believe it or not... The starter box wheel makes contact with both sides of the slot in the chassis just as it touches the flywheel. This stalls the motor in the start box before it will turn the engine over enough to start.

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Old 03-07-2006, 01:12 PM
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Are you using the flywheel that is supplied with the 9.5? If you are then don't get a Mugen or Kyosho flywheel because they are smaller in diameter than the OFNA's.

Did you put any washers or spacers under the motor mounts? If so, remove them.

Sometimes a starter box will have a large diameter wheel which may contact the chassis when it kisses the flywheel. Remove the 9.5 engine and see how the starter wheel lines up with the chassis' hole and if it will just make it into the opening. My stock 9.5 Pro has the stock flywheel about half a chassis thickness into the opening of the chassis.

Another thing you can do is to mill a little off the bottom of the motor mounts.
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Old 03-07-2006, 01:38 PM
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or...you could dremel the opening of the flywheel slot in the chassis...i had to do this with my Mugen chassis when using the Ofna Chrome Top starter box. You could also shim the top of the starter box so that the motor starts spinning earlier and the wheel doesnt go into the slot as far.

You DONT want to start moving the location of the engine in relation to the center diff gear.
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Old 03-07-2006, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Crim3Wav3
or...you could dremel the opening of the flywheel slot in the chassis...i had to do this with my Mugen chassis when using the Ofna Chrome Top starter box. You could also shim the top of the starter box so that the motor starts spinning earlier and the wheel doesnt go into the slot as far.

You DONT want to start moving the location of the engine in relation to the center diff gear.
I have a 9.5 Pro and the chassis opening is large enough for any starter wheel. He has other issues causing his problem.

Of course you don't want to move the engine because that will affect the gear mesh but you can lower the engine without affecting the mesh.

As I said before, I do have the 9.5 Pro with a Picco .21 engine and the flywheel that comes with it and with the stock motor mounts allow the flywheel to reside within the starter slot, not above the chassis but inside the slot. So he must not have the correct flywheel. (A new OFNA flywheel is around $20).

BTW What is a bi-directional clutch????

Last edited by AreCee; 03-07-2006 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 01-08-2007, 08:52 PM
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I was just asking this same question on another board.

I have a 9.5 Pro with a VSPEC. Was thinking of using OFNA clutch shoes. Not sure if I should go with the blue, purple or silver ones. Or should I even be using aluminum shoes...should I be going with carbon?
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Old 01-09-2007, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SUNA
I was just asking this same question on another board.

I have a 9.5 Pro with a VSPEC. Was thinking of using OFNA clutch shoes. Not sure if I should go with the blue, purple or silver ones. Or should I even be using aluminum shoes...should I be going with carbon?
Depends on what you want your clutch to do. All those options you mentioned are the way you tune the cluthch for your engine's power band and the nature of the track.

Generally on high traction tracks with engines that develop power higher in their rpm range you will go with the light Al shoes and 1.0 or 1.1 springs. That gives you high grab at higher rpm.

On loose tracks you may opt for an earlier clutch engagement so you want the heavier shoes and or .9 or 1.0 springs.

Carbon shoes do not grab as aggressively as Al and give a little slip before engaging. They require less maintenance but will wear out faster, however, the CB will last longer.
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