Team Associated RC8T3.1e 2018 Truggy
#61
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Hey guys, new poster here and fairly new to this hobby. I have this kit built and I was setting up the motor and electronics recently. The steering and motor seemed to work fine. However, running the motor made the two drive shafts become detached (where it attaches to the couple coming out of the two gear boxes and is held in place via the lateral screw). I reattached and made extra sure to tighten the screws as tight as I could and ran the motor again and the two drive shafts became loose again.
The only thing I didn't do in this step was use the thread lock on the two lateral screws. Does that make that big of a difference here? And sorry if this is a rookie question or mistake, I'm pretty new to this!
Has anybody encountered this issue?
Thanks,
Jon
The only thing I didn't do in this step was use the thread lock on the two lateral screws. Does that make that big of a difference here? And sorry if this is a rookie question or mistake, I'm pretty new to this!
Has anybody encountered this issue?
Thanks,
Jon
#62
Tech Rookie
Thanks,
Jon
#63
Tech Rookie
Any other words of wisdom on this vehicle?
#64
Tech Rookie
Just built this truck and have an issue.
When accelerating at about 20mph I get a horrid vibration/gear noise. It only last a fraction of second.
At first I didn't know if it was motor cogging or gear slip.
Having read the t3e thread today, I was starting to think that my shimming of the diffs may have not been tight enough.
But I just took the wheels off and gave it a couple of blips, and the vibration/gear noise seems to be the centre diff.
Basically it looks as if there is quite a lot of play between the diff and the holder making the vibration.
Should I shim the centre diff to try and sort this?
Or do you think it is more likely the rear diff under load, as I know that's a little loose, having read the t3e thread.
When accelerating at about 20mph I get a horrid vibration/gear noise. It only last a fraction of second.
At first I didn't know if it was motor cogging or gear slip.
Having read the t3e thread today, I was starting to think that my shimming of the diffs may have not been tight enough.
But I just took the wheels off and gave it a couple of blips, and the vibration/gear noise seems to be the centre diff.
Basically it looks as if there is quite a lot of play between the diff and the holder making the vibration.
Should I shim the centre diff to try and sort this?
Or do you think it is more likely the rear diff under load, as I know that's a little loose, having read the t3e thread.
#65
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Everything is a little loose on the t3's, but they drive pretty good. In my experience diffs usually make noises when accelerating and/or while braking. Not mid throttle so that's a weird one, have you tried another motor? I guess if u can't get ne help here, u may need to start eliminating stuff. Start with the cheap/easy parts and work your way up till u find the problem. Good luck
#66
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
so what are you guys finding is the sweet spot for motor Kv, 2200 or 2000 on 4S?
Also, what lipo size you find works on the vehicles for weight balance and runtime (assuming 10 minute mains, but 15 is possible).
Anything reocmmended to buy right away?
Lastly, Is there a new version on the way or close to being on the way for next year?
Also, what lipo size you find works on the vehicles for weight balance and runtime (assuming 10 minute mains, but 15 is possible).
Anything reocmmended to buy right away?
Lastly, Is there a new version on the way or close to being on the way for next year?
#67
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Sorry, I took a bit of time off over the summer. Just seeing this now. I was hoping to run the truck outdoors but never did, so at this point next week I will start running indoor again. It's a bit tight (for 1/8 scale) and usually low grip , hard-pack and jumpy. So I'll just need to run the truck again and see how it feels. I have been out of it for a bit.
#68
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
what's everyone running on theirs for diffs on a hard packed, grooved, but dusty track?
Having a real hard time planting the rear, just no forward drive, plain horrible. Can't get on it anywhere...lap times show
Currently running 10-10-7 but thinking about going to 5 in the rear
Having a real hard time planting the rear, just no forward drive, plain horrible. Can't get on it anywhere...lap times show
Currently running 10-10-7 but thinking about going to 5 in the rear
#69
Tech Apprentice
I'm running 7, 10, 7 in my truggy, but keep in mind I also have a gen 1 RC8TCE truck,
Last edited by brewkett; 11-13-2019 at 07:28 PM. Reason: error correction
#70
Hey guys i just bought a 8t3.1e roller. What servos fit and work best in this thing the best without shimming. Savox 1256 was an idea i had.. lemme know what you guys are running.
#71
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Everything is a little loose on the t3's, but they drive pretty good. In my experience diffs usually make noises when accelerating and/or while braking. Not mid throttle so that's a weird one, have you tried another motor? I guess if u can't get ne help here, u may need to start eliminating stuff. Start with the cheap/easy parts and work your way up till u find the problem. Good luck
Checked front and rear ring and pinions and shimmed them just a wee bit tighter than tight, and both sets of ring/pinion do not look worn.
I have a few other guys at my track with the same truck but no issue like that.
#72
Tech Apprentice
https://www.amainhobbies.com/savox-s...1270tg/p187714
#73
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
But definitely 5 in the rear for sure and/or soften up the center to reduce the power output to the rear.
Also reducing the punch on my ESC.
#75
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
so what are you guys finding is the sweet spot for motor Kv, 2200 or 2000 on 4S?
Also, what lipo size you find works on the vehicles for weight balance and runtime (assuming 10 minute mains, but 15 is possible).
Anything reocmmended to buy right away?
Lastly, Is there a new version on the way or close to being on the way for next year?
Also, what lipo size you find works on the vehicles for weight balance and runtime (assuming 10 minute mains, but 15 is possible).
Anything reocmmended to buy right away?
Lastly, Is there a new version on the way or close to being on the way for next year?
Small, tight and technical.