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I bought a RC10B2

I bought a RC10B2

Old 08-04-2016, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I agree. B5 mounts are out. The question is now, can I make B5M mounts work. So far the pivots are about the same width.

Front arms are interesting, the bulkheads won't interchange..but the arms WILL!

So it looks like B5 front arms with castor blocks and steering blocks on the front.
You mean the B5 front arm fits without modifying anything? That's surprising.

Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Where did those alloy arm mounts come from?
https://www.amazon.com/Model-Racing-...eywords=pd7140

Originally Posted by Socket View Post
It's happening...

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Old 08-04-2016, 09:20 AM
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C and D mounts are a no-go.

The D mount sits too far back, and it has a funny angle because of the motor plate.
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:13 AM
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Bummer...

What's the plan now? RM or make a new T plate and make it MM3?
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:33 AM
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Oh, the plan is to definitely keep it rear motor. Mid motor would require some gnarly cutting that I'm not fully willing or capable to do.

That said, the term "franken buggy" got thrown around a few times, but I disagree.

B5 front end from the front arms to the wheels. This is purely to make the front arms more durable and so I can run hexes on the front.

The rear will be entirely B3 except for the hubs and axles, so I can run rear hex.
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:36 PM
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Super hyped; scored a VERY hard to find rc10B3 low profile rear shock tower for $5. I see no reason to pay the ebay shops $40+ for this stuff.

Last edited by Socket; 08-05-2016 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 08-06-2016, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Oh, the plan is to definitely keep it rear motor. Mid motor would require some gnarly cutting that I'm not fully willing or capable to do.

That said, the term "franken buggy" got thrown around a few times, but I disagree.

B5 front end from the front arms to the wheels. This is purely to make the front arms more durable and so I can run hexes on the front.

The rear will be entirely B3 except for the hubs and axles, so I can run rear hex.
Good plan, the B3 rear hubs have less offset (or are the B2? I know they are different in that regard) so this should do it easily.

My case was too easy, it is a XXX so I just needed the rear Proline B4 hexes.
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Old 08-06-2016, 02:58 PM
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Nice!

So latest update:

Going with B4 rear hubs, going to drill the hinge pin hole to 1/8".

B44.3 rear CVD's, and B4.2 rear hexes.

Found a 1999 B3 worlds rear tower, but have a B3 body coming. I found the Deja Vu Tu reproduction body on ebay for $25 shipped, so that will work with the lower profile rear tower.

Waiting on 25+ parts to come next week, and my build should be 99% done.
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:25 AM
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If not mistaken, the difference between B4 and B3 rear arm length and shock positions is zero, so using the b4 hub is the easy way out. Only one issue is the camber link length, you will have to use the outer bulkhead hole to have something close to the original B2 camber link length, increasing length would increase roll on car that already rolls too much on the rear by suspension geometry.

Keep us posted!
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:09 PM
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Yep, you're right.

B5 front end is on, and took very minimal hand fitting to make happen. The rear is together as are the CVD's. I am waiting for my diff parts and rear tower and it'll resemble a car!
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:54 PM
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Why?....PM me..
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Why?....PM me..
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
LOL


Still waiting on a gambit of parts, and a single outdrive holds me back from building the entire transmission. Was supposed to be here yesterday...still not here today.

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Old 08-10-2016, 03:41 AM
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Looking good!
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Old 08-10-2016, 06:10 PM
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Good god. I remember building these transmissions not being fun, but this is a nightmare. There's NO WAY it'll spin like my B6. NO WAY.
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Old 08-10-2016, 06:26 PM
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Got about 60 parts in...

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