Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Vintage Forum
Old TC Cars - Still Racing Competitively >

Old TC Cars - Still Racing Competitively

Like Tree602Likes

Old TC Cars - Still Racing Competitively

Old 11-11-2022, 01:42 AM
  #1471  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
EDWARD2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Posts: 2,174
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

To be honest, I wasn't sure if anyone still views this thread or gives any attention anymore since they've kicked it out of the main Touring Car Forums. The moderators don't seem to enjoy the idea of this thread being active for some reason. Why didn't they put it in the vintage thread? Strange place to put it in here. Anyway.


Yes, so the modifications done to the chassis are as follows.


1- Battery hold-down system I had to drill and countersunk holes in the chassis and used some ARC battery carbon holders (any will do) and some ARC plastic steering arms which work like a treat.

2. The battery can only be a ULCG lipo that is around 19.00 mm or lower to clear the bulkhead. Ideally, 18.50 mm is best.

3. I needed to balance the left and right weights by using a Yokomo BD10 40g weight on the battery side. Which helps quite a bit to get things even.

**These battery weights come from their shorty lipo kit. Pretty sure you can buy the weights separately.

4. Shock towers are cut ARC R12 towers that are the kit ones, not the -3mm ones. I simply cut the fronts and rears down and mounted them directly on as you can see.

5. Gear differential comes from a TRF419 and requires some shimming to get things nice and lined up. Easy to do.

6. Dampers are Yokomo BD11/10/9 dampers with Xray 2.5-2.8 front and 2.6 rear.

7. I don't have the screws bolting down the upper plate to allow for a bit more flex in the chassis, maybe I will put them in when I have time for more testing.

8. I did remove a screw from under the motor mount to allow for even flex.

9. Other than that, it's pretty stock when it comes to the other parts such as arms, hubs, etc.


The only serious changes I made were to adopt lower towers, dampers, and a gear differential.


The thing that surprised me the most was running a carbon chassis on a high-bite Ozite carpet. I thought I was going to be grip-rolling left right and center, but it never did.

It was super smooth, fast and so easy to drive. Both my friend and I were shocked by its performance right from the get-go outpacing modern high-end 2022 aluminum chassis.


Also, I forgot to mention it was the first shakedown with the 415. The car was brand new and never run up until this point.


Anyway, I hope this information helps and I'll be sharing a lot more in the near future.


Take care.
nitrous36, jiml and Kregger like this.
EDWARD2003 is offline  
Old 11-11-2022, 07:46 AM
  #1472  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Kregger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,521
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

You didn't have to use different belts?
Kregger is offline  
Old 11-11-2022, 11:49 AM
  #1473  
Regional Moderator
 
nitrous36's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: NC
Posts: 1,853
Default

Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
To be honest, I wasn't sure if anyone still views this thread or gives any attention anymore since they've kicked it out of the main Touring Car Forums. The moderators don't seem to enjoy the idea of this thread being active for some reason. Why didn't they put it in the vintage thread? Strange place to put it in here.
Agreed. The vintage forums would be a much more fitting place for this type of thread. But I dont have the powers to move it.
nitrous36 is offline  
Old 11-11-2022, 12:33 PM
  #1474  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (235)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 32,526
Trader Rating: 235 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nitrous36 View Post
Agreed. The vintage forums would be a much more fitting place for this type of thread. But I dont have the powers to move it.
done
EDWARD2003 and jiml like this.
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 11-11-2022, 01:40 PM
  #1475  
Regional Moderator
 
nitrous36's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: NC
Posts: 1,853
Default

Thankyou. Bows with utmost respect.
Marcos.J likes this.
nitrous36 is offline  
Old 11-11-2022, 04:32 PM
  #1476  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
EDWARD2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Posts: 2,174
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Kregger View Post
You didn't have to use different belts?
I think they were the kit belts. 37 tooth pulleys front and rear.
EDWARD2003 is offline  
Old 11-11-2022, 06:29 PM
  #1477  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
EDWARD2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Posts: 2,174
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Just a little update on my OVA T4 project.

Decided to cut and install some old Cyclone shock towers for ARC LCG dampers that mount up nicely.

Battery tray is underway and next will be ball cups for the upper links, bumper and body posts.





EDWARD2003 is offline  
Old 11-13-2022, 09:20 PM
  #1478  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
EDWARD2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Posts: 2,174
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Here are some other projects Iíve been working on.

Corally RDX almost ready to hit the track.

Corally RDX

OVA T4

OVA T4

Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks

Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks

Schumacher Mi4 front tower using LCG shocks

Schumacher Mi4 mounting setup.

Looking forward to trying this chassis out.
rccartips likes this.
EDWARD2003 is offline  
Old 11-15-2022, 10:00 AM
  #1479  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 127
Default

Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
To be honest, I wasn't sure if anyone still views this thread or gives any attention anymore since they've kicked it out of the main Touring Car Forums. The moderators don't seem to enjoy the idea of this thread being active for some reason. Why didn't they put it in the vintage thread? Strange place to put it in here. Anyway.


Yes, so the modifications done to the chassis are as follows.


1- Battery hold-down system I had to drill and countersunk holes in the chassis and used some ARC battery carbon holders (any will do) and some ARC plastic steering arms which work like a treat.

2. The battery can only be a ULCG lipo that is around 19.00 mm or lower to clear the bulkhead. Ideally, 18.50 mm is best.

3. I needed to balance the left and right weights by using a Yokomo BD10 40g weight on the battery side. Which helps quite a bit to get things even.

**These battery weights come from their shorty lipo kit. Pretty sure you can buy the weights separately.

4. Shock towers are cut ARC R12 towers that are the kit ones, not the -3mm ones. I simply cut the fronts and rears down and mounted them directly on as you can see.

5. Gear differential comes from a TRF419 and requires some shimming to get things nice and lined up. Easy to do.

6. Dampers are Yokomo BD11/10/9 dampers with Xray 2.5-2.8 front and 2.6 rear.

7. I don't have the screws bolting down the upper plate to allow for a bit more flex in the chassis, maybe I will put them in when I have time for more testing.

8. I did remove a screw from under the motor mount to allow for even flex.

9. Other than that, it's pretty stock when it comes to the other parts such as arms, hubs, etc.


The only serious changes I made were to adopt lower towers, dampers, and a gear differential.


The thing that surprised me the most was running a carbon chassis on a high-bite Ozite carpet. I thought I was going to be grip-rolling left right and center, but it never did.

It was super smooth, fast and so easy to drive. Both my friend and I were shocked by its performance right from the get-go outpacing modern high-end 2022 aluminum chassis.


Also, I forgot to mention it was the first shakedown with the 415. The car was brand new and never run up until this point.


Anyway, I hope this information helps and I'll be sharing a lot more in the near future.


Take care.
This is a much better location that should get more traction.

Thanks for sharing the list of developments. There was more done than casually meets the eye!

For me, two cars with messy taped-in batteries were updated to similar post designs. The guys at the track noticed the upgrade immediately. My counter-sunk chassis holes were made by hand cutting the soft aluminum with a snapped-off triangular file that slowly rotated to enlarge the hole. Any comments on cutting nice tight countersink holes?
F1jet_ is offline  
Old 11-15-2022, 10:45 AM
  #1480  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 127
Default

You mentioned no traction rolling (TR) occurred, which is a really good thing.
Perhaps readers and racers can post further on what they do to minimize flipping because this could help keep older cars running competitively (And not disintegrating in a nasty unexpected accident)

Here are some areas that could be considered when dealing with traction rolling, please feel free to add more:

front tire superglued sidewalls, thickness of the band
Ride height
chassis roll
chassis edges rubbing on the carpet
high diff or low diff location
extra width, through spacers, hubs, wheel offset
tire sidewall superglue band thickness
suspension geometry (contributing to larger distance versus smaller distance between the center of rotation and center of gravity)
excess weight above the chassis from areas such as excessive wiring arcs, steel screws in upper sections
tire compound, - does it balloon and lift the car as it goes faster? (VTA tires balloon more as they get older and thinner)
wheels - stiffness, cracks, vibrations
low center of gravity batteries.
F1jet_ is offline  
Old 11-15-2022, 11:09 AM
  #1481  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 127
Default

Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Here are some other projects Iíve been working on.

Corally RDX almost ready to hit the track.

Corally RDX

OVA T4

OVA T4

Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks

Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks

Schumacher Mi4 front tower using LCG shocks

Schumacher Mi4 mounting setup.

Looking forward to trying this chassis out.


Those are some really good adaptions, getting it down low.

In the snip from your bulkhead photos, the circled area is a possible issue where any rotation of the arm would cause rubbing on the rotating diff.
While the original two screws are too big to use, can you tap in a small screw or even a pin to lock the arm in position? Accidents happen all the time!
rccartips likes this.
F1jet_ is offline  
Old 12-29-2022, 11:49 PM
  #1482  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 14
Default

Hey guys anybody out there still running an old HPI Pro 2 or Pro3
currentl rebuilding my old pro2 and have a PRP chassised pro3 next to rebuild and put running again
want to try them on carpet on 17.5 boost class!!
Koukikid is offline  
Old 12-31-2022, 07:09 AM
  #1483  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Kregger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,521
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Ill break out my Pro2 once in a while for vta, but I would like to install bigger gears in it to improve the drivetrain.
Kregger is offline  
Old 01-01-2023, 12:12 AM
  #1484  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 14
Default

Originally Posted by Kregger View Post
Ill break out my Pro2 once in a while for vta, but I would like to install bigger gears in it to improve the drivetrain.
Are you still using ball diffs front and rear?? Been looking at trying to lock up my spare 1 way and turn it into a spool. I did it to my Pro3 many years ago
Koukikid is offline  
Old 01-01-2023, 05:34 PM
  #1485  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Kregger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,521
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Koukikid View Post
Are you still using ball diffs front and rear?? Been looking at trying to lock up my spare 1 way and turn it into a spool. I did it to my Pro3 many years ago
running a ball diff in the rear and locked up the front using Associated slipper spool pads. Tamiya makes all
Per pegs to do the same thing.

Last edited by Kregger; 01-03-2023 at 07:36 PM. Reason: Stupid auto correct
Kregger is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:
You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.