602LikesOld TC Cars - Still Racing Competitively
11-11-2022, 01:42 AM
#1471
To be honest, I wasn't sure if anyone still views this thread or gives any attention anymore since they've kicked it out of the main Touring Car Forums. The moderators don't seem to enjoy the idea of this thread being active for some reason. Why didn't they put it in the vintage thread? Strange place to put it in here. Anyway.
Yes, so the modifications done to the chassis are as follows.
1- Battery hold-down system I had to drill and countersunk holes in the chassis and used some ARC battery carbon holders (any will do) and some ARC plastic steering arms which work like a treat.
2. The battery can only be a ULCG lipo that is around 19.00 mm or lower to clear the bulkhead. Ideally, 18.50 mm is best.
3. I needed to balance the left and right weights by using a Yokomo BD10 40g weight on the battery side. Which helps quite a bit to get things even.
**These battery weights come from their shorty lipo kit. Pretty sure you can buy the weights separately.
4. Shock towers are cut ARC R12 towers that are the kit ones, not the -3mm ones. I simply cut the fronts and rears down and mounted them directly on as you can see.
5. Gear differential comes from a TRF419 and requires some shimming to get things nice and lined up. Easy to do.
6. Dampers are Yokomo BD11/10/9 dampers with Xray 2.5-2.8 front and 2.6 rear.
7. I don't have the screws bolting down the upper plate to allow for a bit more flex in the chassis, maybe I will put them in when I have time for more testing.
8. I did remove a screw from under the motor mount to allow for even flex.
9. Other than that, it's pretty stock when it comes to the other parts such as arms, hubs, etc.
The only serious changes I made were to adopt lower towers, dampers, and a gear differential.
The thing that surprised me the most was running a carbon chassis on a high-bite Ozite carpet. I thought I was going to be grip-rolling left right and center, but it never did.
It was super smooth, fast and so easy to drive. Both my friend and I were shocked by its performance right from the get-go outpacing modern high-end 2022 aluminum chassis.
Also, I forgot to mention it was the first shakedown with the 415. The car was brand new and never run up until this point.
Anyway, I hope this information helps and I'll be sharing a lot more in the near future.
Take care.
Yes, so the modifications done to the chassis are as follows.
1- Battery hold-down system I had to drill and countersunk holes in the chassis and used some ARC battery carbon holders (any will do) and some ARC plastic steering arms which work like a treat.
2. The battery can only be a ULCG lipo that is around 19.00 mm or lower to clear the bulkhead. Ideally, 18.50 mm is best.
3. I needed to balance the left and right weights by using a Yokomo BD10 40g weight on the battery side. Which helps quite a bit to get things even.
**These battery weights come from their shorty lipo kit. Pretty sure you can buy the weights separately.
4. Shock towers are cut ARC R12 towers that are the kit ones, not the -3mm ones. I simply cut the fronts and rears down and mounted them directly on as you can see.
5. Gear differential comes from a TRF419 and requires some shimming to get things nice and lined up. Easy to do.
6. Dampers are Yokomo BD11/10/9 dampers with Xray 2.5-2.8 front and 2.6 rear.
7. I don't have the screws bolting down the upper plate to allow for a bit more flex in the chassis, maybe I will put them in when I have time for more testing.
8. I did remove a screw from under the motor mount to allow for even flex.
9. Other than that, it's pretty stock when it comes to the other parts such as arms, hubs, etc.
The only serious changes I made were to adopt lower towers, dampers, and a gear differential.
The thing that surprised me the most was running a carbon chassis on a high-bite Ozite carpet. I thought I was going to be grip-rolling left right and center, but it never did.
It was super smooth, fast and so easy to drive. Both my friend and I were shocked by its performance right from the get-go outpacing modern high-end 2022 aluminum chassis.
Also, I forgot to mention it was the first shakedown with the 415. The car was brand new and never run up until this point.
Anyway, I hope this information helps and I'll be sharing a lot more in the near future.
Take care.
11-11-2022, 11:49 AM
#1473
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
To be honest, I wasn't sure if anyone still views this thread or gives any attention anymore since they've kicked it out of the main Touring Car Forums. The moderators don't seem to enjoy the idea of this thread being active for some reason. Why didn't they put it in the vintage thread? Strange place to put it in here.
11-11-2022, 01:40 PM
#1475
Thankyou. Bows with utmost respect. 
11-13-2022, 09:20 PM
#1478
Here are some other projects I’ve been working on.
Corally RDX almost ready to hit the track.
Corally RDX
OVA T4
OVA T4
Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 front tower using LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 mounting setup.
Looking forward to trying this chassis out.
Corally RDX almost ready to hit the track.
Corally RDX
OVA T4
OVA T4
Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 front tower using LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 mounting setup.
Looking forward to trying this chassis out.
11-15-2022, 10:00 AM
#1479
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
To be honest, I wasn't sure if anyone still views this thread or gives any attention anymore since they've kicked it out of the main Touring Car Forums. The moderators don't seem to enjoy the idea of this thread being active for some reason. Why didn't they put it in the vintage thread? Strange place to put it in here. Anyway.
Yes, so the modifications done to the chassis are as follows.
1- Battery hold-down system I had to drill and countersunk holes in the chassis and used some ARC battery carbon holders (any will do) and some ARC plastic steering arms which work like a treat.
2. The battery can only be a ULCG lipo that is around 19.00 mm or lower to clear the bulkhead. Ideally, 18.50 mm is best.
3. I needed to balance the left and right weights by using a Yokomo BD10 40g weight on the battery side. Which helps quite a bit to get things even.
**These battery weights come from their shorty lipo kit. Pretty sure you can buy the weights separately.
4. Shock towers are cut ARC R12 towers that are the kit ones, not the -3mm ones. I simply cut the fronts and rears down and mounted them directly on as you can see.
5. Gear differential comes from a TRF419 and requires some shimming to get things nice and lined up. Easy to do.
6. Dampers are Yokomo BD11/10/9 dampers with Xray 2.5-2.8 front and 2.6 rear.
7. I don't have the screws bolting down the upper plate to allow for a bit more flex in the chassis, maybe I will put them in when I have time for more testing.
8. I did remove a screw from under the motor mount to allow for even flex.
9. Other than that, it's pretty stock when it comes to the other parts such as arms, hubs, etc.
The only serious changes I made were to adopt lower towers, dampers, and a gear differential.
The thing that surprised me the most was running a carbon chassis on a high-bite Ozite carpet. I thought I was going to be grip-rolling left right and center, but it never did.
It was super smooth, fast and so easy to drive. Both my friend and I were shocked by its performance right from the get-go outpacing modern high-end 2022 aluminum chassis.
Also, I forgot to mention it was the first shakedown with the 415. The car was brand new and never run up until this point.
Anyway, I hope this information helps and I'll be sharing a lot more in the near future.
Take care.
Yes, so the modifications done to the chassis are as follows.
1- Battery hold-down system I had to drill and countersunk holes in the chassis and used some ARC battery carbon holders (any will do) and some ARC plastic steering arms which work like a treat.
2. The battery can only be a ULCG lipo that is around 19.00 mm or lower to clear the bulkhead. Ideally, 18.50 mm is best.
3. I needed to balance the left and right weights by using a Yokomo BD10 40g weight on the battery side. Which helps quite a bit to get things even.
**These battery weights come from their shorty lipo kit. Pretty sure you can buy the weights separately.
4. Shock towers are cut ARC R12 towers that are the kit ones, not the -3mm ones. I simply cut the fronts and rears down and mounted them directly on as you can see.
5. Gear differential comes from a TRF419 and requires some shimming to get things nice and lined up. Easy to do.
6. Dampers are Yokomo BD11/10/9 dampers with Xray 2.5-2.8 front and 2.6 rear.
7. I don't have the screws bolting down the upper plate to allow for a bit more flex in the chassis, maybe I will put them in when I have time for more testing.
8. I did remove a screw from under the motor mount to allow for even flex.
9. Other than that, it's pretty stock when it comes to the other parts such as arms, hubs, etc.
The only serious changes I made were to adopt lower towers, dampers, and a gear differential.
The thing that surprised me the most was running a carbon chassis on a high-bite Ozite carpet. I thought I was going to be grip-rolling left right and center, but it never did.
It was super smooth, fast and so easy to drive. Both my friend and I were shocked by its performance right from the get-go outpacing modern high-end 2022 aluminum chassis.
Also, I forgot to mention it was the first shakedown with the 415. The car was brand new and never run up until this point.
Anyway, I hope this information helps and I'll be sharing a lot more in the near future.
Take care.
Thanks for sharing the list of developments. There was more done than casually meets the eye!
For me, two cars with messy taped-in batteries were updated to similar post designs. The guys at the track noticed the upgrade immediately. My counter-sunk chassis holes were made by hand cutting the soft aluminum with a snapped-off triangular file that slowly rotated to enlarge the hole. Any comments on cutting nice tight countersink holes?
11-15-2022, 10:45 AM
#1480
Tech Adept
You mentioned no traction rolling (TR) occurred, which is a really good thing.
Perhaps readers and racers can post further on what they do to minimize flipping because this could help keep older cars running competitively (And not disintegrating in a nasty unexpected accident)
Here are some areas that could be considered when dealing with traction rolling, please feel free to add more:
front tire superglued sidewalls, thickness of the band
Ride height
chassis roll
chassis edges rubbing on the carpet
high diff or low diff location
extra width, through spacers, hubs, wheel offset
tire sidewall superglue band thickness
suspension geometry (contributing to larger distance versus smaller distance between the center of rotation and center of gravity)
excess weight above the chassis from areas such as excessive wiring arcs, steel screws in upper sections
tire compound, - does it balloon and lift the car as it goes faster? (VTA tires balloon more as they get older and thinner)
wheels - stiffness, cracks, vibrations
low center of gravity batteries.
Perhaps readers and racers can post further on what they do to minimize flipping because this could help keep older cars running competitively (And not disintegrating in a nasty unexpected accident)
Here are some areas that could be considered when dealing with traction rolling, please feel free to add more:
front tire superglued sidewalls, thickness of the band
Ride height
chassis roll
chassis edges rubbing on the carpet
high diff or low diff location
extra width, through spacers, hubs, wheel offset
tire sidewall superglue band thickness
suspension geometry (contributing to larger distance versus smaller distance between the center of rotation and center of gravity)
excess weight above the chassis from areas such as excessive wiring arcs, steel screws in upper sections
tire compound, - does it balloon and lift the car as it goes faster? (VTA tires balloon more as they get older and thinner)
wheels - stiffness, cracks, vibrations
low center of gravity batteries.
11-15-2022, 11:09 AM
#1481
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
Here are some other projects I’ve been working on.
Corally RDX almost ready to hit the track.
Corally RDX
OVA T4
OVA T4
Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 front tower using LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 mounting setup.
Looking forward to trying this chassis out.
Corally RDX almost ready to hit the track.
Corally RDX
OVA T4
OVA T4
Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 flipped tower for LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 front tower using LCG shocks
Schumacher Mi4 mounting setup.
Looking forward to trying this chassis out.
Those are some really good adaptions, getting it down low.
In the snip from your bulkhead photos, the circled area is a possible issue where any rotation of the arm would cause rubbing on the rotating diff.
While the original two screws are too big to use, can you tap in a small screw or even a pin to lock the arm in position? Accidents happen all the time!
12-29-2022, 11:49 PM
#1482
Tech Rookie
Hey guys anybody out there still running an old HPI Pro 2 or Pro3
currentl rebuilding my old pro2 and have a PRP chassised pro3 next to rebuild and put running again
want to try them on carpet on 17.5 boost class!!
currentl rebuilding my old pro2 and have a PRP chassised pro3 next to rebuild and put running again
want to try them on carpet on 17.5 boost class!!
01-01-2023, 12:12 AM
#1484
Tech Rookie
Originally Posted by Kregger
Ill break out my Pro2 once in a while for vta, but I would like to install bigger gears in it to improve the drivetrain.
01-01-2023, 05:34 PM
#1485
Originally Posted by Koukikid
Are you still using ball diffs front and rear?? Been looking at trying to lock up my spare 1 way and turn it into a spool. I did it to my Pro3 many years ago
Per pegs to do the same thing.
Last edited by Kregger; 01-03-2023 at 07:36 PM. Reason: Stupid auto correct
