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Old 12-03-2017, 07:36 AM   #1
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Default Questions for Supershot

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I had built this in 1985 and seemed to move onto other things. I recently pulled her out of the box, having never been ran, and toyed with getting her going again. Being out of it for 31 years is like starting all over again. I assume brushless is a bad idea and if so what is a top of the line motor that I can put in this. Are there any recommended upgrades. Wheels and tires seem to be a problem. I have an old Airtronics XL. Is it possible to get new servos and run both cars off the same controller? With the issue of parts would anyone recommend just not running it at this point? Thanks for any advise.

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Old 12-03-2017, 12:25 PM   #2
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well the super shot was rereleased in 2012 as the super hotshot, it is basically the same car with some changes. so you can get parts. you can put some lower power brushless systems in it. however with more power and speed will come more breakage.

due to gearing the hotshot platform was good to a super stock motor around 15 turns. back in 1985 this was where the motors were along with the battery technology of the day. something like a techipower motor that the super shot came with was actaully a 23T single, the techigold was a 21T Single and the techniTuned was a 27T single these all were very much still stock motors.

in the later 1980s-early 1990s tamiya motors got into the 17-19T range. then in the early 1990s into the 13-10T range.

personally if you don't want to deal with more issues from breakage then i would just stick to a low turn super stock motor anything from the brushed era is going to be fine above 15Turns. people have installed brushless systems and increased the power it will by up to you.

Tires and wheels you can get as they were re-released.
you can find HPI rims that come with adapters if you want to run 2.2 wheels.


in the stock tire world you have some options you have Avante/egress/Hotshot treads that range from large spike to knob type.

you can reuse your old radio, or you can buy a new digital system that will require changing the receiver and servos out. some older ESCS have issues with digital radios and may not work. you can buy as many receivers and servos as you wish to tie to the new digital transmitter. so yes you can run both cars off the same controller just not at the same time .

parts are available from tower hobby, tamiyausa, ebay, amazon etc....
as the years go on it is harder to get parts. but so now you can keep your car going.
or you could save it as an original and go out and buy a new 2012 kit to build up.
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:10 PM   #3
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Bit of a rehash of what’s said above, but. Honestly, best thing to do is get a re-released kit & use that as a runner. The original version will be worth good money if it hasn’t been used especially if it’s in the box art colour scheme. I’ve got one of the box art re-released Super Hot Shots for the shelf which looks awesome but any predominantly plastic Tamiya kit will come with it’s own limitations & push it too far & something IS going to break. Have had the first re-released Avante with a 2S Novak brushless combo which ran well with a 2S 25C 5000mAh Lipo but when I tried running it with the battery from my 22T with a higher burst rating it stripped a gear & I was lucky it didn’t do more damage. The same thing would work in a Super(shot or) Hot Shot. Check the overall top speed & gear down the pinion or spur if necessary to make it manageable. It helps to have obvious weak link in the drive train (plastic spur/metal pinion) which is easy to replace & will limit damage. You’ll won’t look back when you convert your buggy as your run times will be significantly increased & set up well it should remain problem free with regular maintenance provided you don’t push it too hard. Have a friend with a brushless original Wild One who often pushes it so hard that it usually cuts short a really good run & needs parts to continue using it. I saw the light with my first Team Losi...
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:12 PM   #4
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Car looks great and thanks for the information. I am thinking about selling it and getting something where parts might be more readily available. What would be a good asking price for an unused built supershot with box, 1985 trinity monster motor and airtronics XL 2P?
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:13 AM   #5
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about $3.50.

that isn't a good question to ask. you will have to figure that out on your own. the supershot was re-released. the supershot is also not rare at all.
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:00 PM   #6
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That Hotshot II is a good looking car.
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:10 PM   #7
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the hotshot II is not mine, but it has an RC channel suspension kit on it.

the rc channel hot shot suspension kit was an all metal conversion kit that came out just after the tamiya hotshot re-release in 2007. the kit came out in 2008.

it cost about 150$ dollars for the kit.

it turned all the plastic suspension parts into cast aluminum. it really wasn't a great kit because it basically doubled the weight of the original buggy.

here is a video someone made on the rc channel kit
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDXryLlyHLQ

the hotshot II car above also has the rc channel shocks. if i remember the kit also came with optional parts to convert the Mono shock to a 4 shock setup.
I has been about 8 years since i really messed with my Rc channel kit for my hotshot which is in a box somewhere.

rc channel also made skid plates and rims.
http://www.rcchannel.com.tw/index.php

the hot shot kit is a dud but the SRB rear suspension kits are really nice. but i think they stopped making the kits a few years ago.


the kits got rid of the extreme rear Camber on the SRB chassis.
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Old 12-10-2017, 07:39 AM   #8
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Anyone have a recommendation for shock upgrades? I belive they are listed at 77 and 103mm. I was looking at the Proline Power Stroke shocks but open to suggestions.
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Old 12-10-2017, 03:04 PM   #9
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i will actually tell you to stick with the stock shocks, just rebuild them, install new orings and shock oil.

you will be fighting with aftermarket shocks trying to get the geometry and throw to just match stock. usually aftermarket shocks bodies are going to be too short or too long, that will make you start messing around with the shock tower mounts making fabrication after fabrication trying to get it right. on the track you will see zero improvement over the stock yellow CVAs.

Chief complaint of CVA they stick. yup they stick after sitting for a few hours because the o-rings seal against the shaft is tight and this causes Stick-tion as the oil has pushed away and the o-ring gone dry. all you do before a run is Stroke the Shocks a couple of times to re-wet the O-ring and you are good to go. you can try slimeing the shaft it won't matter it will still stick after sitting a while.

otherwise Yellow CVA shocks are just as adjustable as aftermarket, you can change the pistons , and change the oil to adjust dampening. ride height is easy to adjust with the inserts and there are different spring rates available but the shock spring rate is good.

I used to race on Stock CVA shocks. and i have been through the after market shocks on tamiyas and it is a waste of money. if you are attempting to run Larger bore shocks in an effort to jump higher all you will do is Bust the gear cases or A arms jumping higher it is all ABS plastic and not designed for Table top jumps.

Tracks back in the 1980s and late 1980s did not have large triple and doubles and table top jumps. Remember the hotshot is a 1985 release, the super shot came out in 1986 the designs started in 1983-1984.
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Old 12-11-2017, 06:28 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamiyadan View Post
i will actually tell you to stick with the stock shocks, just rebuild them, install new orings and shock oil.

you will be fighting with aftermarket shocks trying to get the geometry and throw to just match stock. usually aftermarket shocks bodies are going to be too short or too long, that will make you start messing around with the shock tower mounts making fabrication after fabrication trying to get it right. on the track you will see zero improvement over the stock yellow CVAs.

Chief complaint of CVA they stick. yup they stick after sitting for a few hours because the o-rings seal against the shaft is tight and this causes Stick-tion as the oil has pushed away and the o-ring gone dry. all you do before a run is Stroke the Shocks a couple of times to re-wet the O-ring and you are good to go. you can try slimeing the shaft it won't matter it will still stick after sitting a while.

otherwise Yellow CVA shocks are just as adjustable as aftermarket, you can change the pistons , and change the oil to adjust dampening. ride height is easy to adjust with the inserts and there are different spring rates available but the shock spring rate is good.

I used to race on Stock CVA shocks. and i have been through the after market shocks on tamiyas and it is a waste of money. if you are attempting to run Larger bore shocks in an effort to jump higher all you will do is Bust the gear cases or A arms jumping higher it is all ABS plastic and not designed for Table top jumps.

Tracks back in the 1980s and late 1980s did not have large triple and doubles and table top jumps. Remember the hotshot is a 1985 release, the super shot came out in 1986 the designs started in 1983-1984.
Good post. Another thing I want to add is that Tamiya CVA shocks don't leak. A lot of aftermarket shocks will unless you spend a lot of money.

On old Tamiyas and re-releases there's no need to update shocks to anything more than CVAs.
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:44 PM   #11
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Very much appreciated. I guess the only thing I’ll do is put in a new brushed motor. Looks like I might buy one to run until I decide if I am going to run this one. Looking for the best motor that won’t stress the gears and drive. I will continue that search but open to suggestions. Suggested that I stay above 15T.
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:54 PM   #12
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if you want vintage power and keep the lower end punch for offroad, you could get a slot machine or green machine motor, a Stock monster horsepower motor from trinity. these would be used off ebay.

these would be cheap and will need some fixing up since they are old and used. a NIB vintage motor is going to be very expensive as they are a collectible.


tamiya sells 23T BZ and RZ motors. the difference is BZ uses stand up brushes and RZ uses laydown brushes. The BZ would give you more top end less torque. the RZ would give more torque less top end. that is if you would like a new motor sold right now and it comes from tamiya.

a vintage correct tamiya motor like a techniXXXX named motor is going to cost you a lot of money and even more new in a box. Keep in mind these motors required special tools to work on and used VERY special one off brushes making them even more expensive to run and maintain.

any motor in the last 20 years is going to be motor powerful then the motor that originally came with the buggy. a stock copper head laydown motor like a D2 or D3 from the late 1990s would blow away anything before that point.

AE has a series of brushed motors with 17Turns.


Keep in mind the hotter you go the less run time. new LIPO batteries may not fit in the original battery holder. larger capacity NICD and NIMH got bigger(larger diameter) so they may not fit either.


i don't know if you mentioned if you have the Stock MSC or not. the stock MSC will not handle anything hotter then 21Turns, and that is pushing it. the stock motor was 23 Turns and pushing everything to overload as is. the Save was the battery Mah back then kept the run time under 6 minutes.

So if you are upgrading the motor then you will need a ESC.

again if you are taking a nice original car and changing it around you will greatly reduce its market value and the best is getting a RE-Release Super hotshot and trashing that instead.

my supershot and a winger


Last edited by Tamiyadan; 12-12-2017 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 12-12-2017, 05:40 PM   #13
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I really appreciate the advise as I have been out of this for a while. Good information and I hope you don’t mind if I pick your brain some more. I think I’ll hat one of the Tamiya bz or ex motors. I do have an unused trinity monster 1985 world champ lemans that I was about to put back in the day. Guessing onebif the ones you mentioned would be a better fit.
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Old 12-12-2017, 06:18 PM   #14
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the trinity monster would be ok. again those can be worth money depending on condition.
if you plan to use the trinity then i would go ahead and get a ESC to replace the MSC.

you can get vintage Speed controllers anywhere from 30$ to 500$ depending on what you are looking for. Novak T4s are a dime a dozen. a T1 would be better if you could find it. the double row heatsink larger capacity ESCs are much harder to fit into the hotshot bathtub chassis. there are also better novak H1C and HPC as well as the Workhorse the 410-m1 or m4 Novak series.

there are also tons of Tekins the 408, 410, 420G etc.

more modern a Futaba mc330 esc was the last generation of very good brushed escs.

there are of course modern versions however some do not work correctly with analog radio systems. you were talking about swapping the radio for something more modern.

so it will depend on the direction you want to go. you can work with the existing radio and add some good vintage gear that can be bought at decent prices. or you totally swap out the radio for a modern digital then you will need to replace the servos and use a modern ESC of course the motor will still be limited simply due to the hotshot and reducing the likely hood of damaging the gearbox.

with brushed motors remember to install 3 noise suppression capacitors on the motor can to the + and - terminals. more performance with a forward only ESC you could add a shockley diode depending on how nuts you want to go.
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