YDBD

iTrader: (3)

btw Paulie how was the pingpong comp?

bando711

Most of mine are out the top, at the price of the Zippies I will dremel a slot if needed.

Jon, did you get a couple of those, how did they fit in your battery tray? You have the low profile box, do the cables still contact the edge?

These should provide plenty of power for the 80A system just not sure of the runtime of the 4000mah
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...25C_Car_Lipoly

crymynal

Nope. No dremeling. I would prefer to buy the right batteries.


Whatever you have them starting with will be fine. I'll use that as a start point for tuning. Just make sure to let me know what you go with so I'm not flying blind on the first setup.

bando711

Stuff in the mail today, got something to work on. Jon, they unloaded a building full of bags while I was there this morning. Hopefully some of the stuff we are waiting for came in........1 x JCI0079JConcepts RC8e "Hi-Flow" Illuzion Body5 x OFN40024OFNA 13x16x0.2mm Differential Shims (4)1 x PAAPT42Pacer Z-42 Blue Thread Locker (0.20oz)1 x OUT20-2265-03Outerwears Performance Pre-Filter Air Filter Cover (2 3/4 Dia. x 2 1/2) (Red)

pgeldz

Wait a tic...

Anythony, you're not building the 748 yourself? First off, I didn't know you got one, and now, your leaving the build to Jon??? Are you crazy? Must be those perscription meds...HA HA HA.


Yup, those are the exact batteries I got. Out of the 8 I got, all were perfectly balanced form the factory except 1 of them. That one is defective and I need to send it back. On the two Bantam chargers I have they give the error message "over voltage", and on the two hyperion charers I have they give the error message "battery not connected". Not sure what's going on but I need to send that 1 back. Shipping cost of sending it back will probably be more than buying a new one at the new lower price.

Keep mind, the apearance of the battery can change, as mine are NOT like the picture. The wires exit out of the middle of the front. Not on top, but on the side of the battery. You will need to dremel to lay flat in the 748 battery box.


Of course I smoked them all! Actually, we just volleyed the whole time. The owner of Koza housing came out (very old gentleman), and I volleyed with him for almost an hour. said it's the most fun/activity he's had in a long while, and now wants to get a ping pong table for his house!

Those batteries are perfect for the 748, 80A ESC. Super lightweight. I have a bunch of them.



- Paulie

bando711

Just some thoughts, we are getting a good croud of Ep 1/8 buggies. We alone can determine the length of our heats and mains. We only need larger heavier batteries if we extend the heats and mains. After we all get some run time in we should be able to come with a good number. It should be no issue running a qualifier with 4000-5000mah batteries. The mains is where we will have trouble, 15min is a good club race standard for the A-main, the lower mains tend to be shorter. Not sure if 2x 4000mah gets you to 15minutes, but it should. I would rather not run the heavy 6500's unless I have to.

I decided to get smart on the timer function on my 3PK, so now I will be able to get a real good idea of how long I can go at race speed with different size batteries.

Some of you old electric guys can help me out with the math......... If I run for 4 minutes, starting with a fully charged 5000mah, and I put 2800mah back in.......does that mean

2800 divided by 4 = 700mah per minute
5000 divided by 700 = 7.14 minutes of run time

These are not real numbers.......just some that were easy to do the math

raycerZ

iTrader: (2)

Yo Ken...the truck body is here. You can either buy it or I'll give it to you if you build my B5 for me.

Mike

bando711

As much as I would like to help you out..I have no desire to build it for you. I will take the body for the $120 as stated on the other thread.

If someone else wants to build in exchange for the body..........go for it!!

YDBD

iTrader: (3)

In math you would get an A+, probably even in physics. But for the real application, no.

Factor in the following:
Heat in the ESC, heat in the motor, heat on the lipos. In *most* instances heat is a result of resistance and the resistance may increase as temps go up as resistance goes up so does the amount of power need to provide the same performance.

C rating, even tho lipos have very little performance curve drop as they discharge, it does drop. So you will be trying to get a little more by apply more throttle than you did the last minute and so on, shortening the time...

Your driving, as you warm up your driving may get better or worse, either way you may be using more or less power as time goes on and by far not a math problem we want to deal with.

In short, as you drive the power available becomes less and less and burning up 700 mah for the 1st minute does not mean you will burn 700 mah in the last minute.

Best thing is to drive until cut off and time it. I like a 2-3 minute cushion. So if I get 7 minutes out of a 4000mah, I'd use that in a 5 minute race. I don't want to be on that last lap and cut out and I don't want to put only 800mah in a 3700mah battery every time. (racing at siro yomitan)....

crymynal

Nope, Jon is not building it for me. His students are. I am taking a ride on the bandwagon and picking up one of the buggies from the Team Driver himself.

bando711

THE BANDWAGON IS GETTING FULL


Caster rules .................and Vorza drools

Murdadock

iTrader: (2)

PAULYISMs, coming out of every crack nowadays

crymynal

HaHaHa.....My turn to take the jokes now?

bando711

Anybody remember the guys name from camp services? I'm thinking it would be nice to get the truck back over to the track for the long w/e. somebody has got to know somebody we can call.

pgeldz

Ah, the students are building it...well then, it should last a whole race (vs a few laps if Jon built it)!

HA HA. Kidding Jon.

LOL! We'll see who'll be doing the drooling...he he he.

Ya see? I'm rubbing off on you guys. Don't hate.

LOL!



- Paulie