Originally Posted by fanfor18

I need some help. The sensor went out in my V21 25.5 motor. So I have two other R1 motors so I figured I would just steal one of those sensor boards. The problem I am having is that when I install a sensor from one of the other motors there is no end play in the motor, this is with all of the shims on the sensor side out. Has anyone else run into this problem?

Originally Posted by fanfor18

I need some help. The sensor went out in my V21 25.5 motor. So I have two other R1 motors so I figured I would just steal one of those sensor boards. The problem I am having is that when I install a sensor from one of the other motors there is no end play in the motor, this is with all of the shims on the sensor side out. Has anyone else run into this problem?

Originally Posted by dawgmeat

Wow 25.5 bad sensors are still a thing?????? Glad I didn't purchase the V21

Originally Posted by Ggrant

Originally Posted by Dan

So is the V21 25.5 basically just a new outer can over the V16 and all other parts identical? (talking about ONLY the 25.5t here)

Originally Posted by rc_square24

Has anyone tried replacing the servo/signal lead on a Digital 3 ESC? I have the case open but the cable is sandwiched between the top and bottom circuit boards and the bottom board doesn't seem to have socket plugs that allows unplugging of the board.

I think I could feed the cable between the boards and solder from the inside, although much more difficult.

Originally Posted by nexxus

So finally got hold of my V3 esc last night

Initial impressions

1. Why can't you presolder wires to the unit? Maclan can, LRP can, whats so hard about it? Yeah I know Tekin don't maybe it's cool that way? Get Joe Bloggs to solder his own wires up and skirt warranty claims that way? I dunno, just seems lazy.

2. Manuals / Paperwork? None, Zip, Nada, even a little note to say "Download here"?

3. Wifi dongle interfaces easily connects to the phone, Live mode can't measure battery voltage if not connected to a receiver? Erm... ok? Is that right? (Haven't gotten to trying to connect it into the car yet so we'll get there...)

4. ESC itself looks and feels solid, all metal case Wifi adapter is smaller than the HW unit but not sealed that well, can see the case getting damaged on that if left in car.


Will have further thoughts once I hook up a receiver and motor and tinker with live mode. This was just initial arrival and solder up wires, make sure it turns on etc and wifi adapter works.

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone

If you try to run the motor with all the shims out on the sensor side you will probably wreck your sensor board. Proper spacing requires approximately a business card thickness between the face of rotor and the sensors. The rest of the shimming is done on the gear side of the rotor, so you'll have to add or subtract shims on that side till you get the side play your looking for. There are two different thickness brass spacers available for that side of the motor, a long one and a short one, a combination of one of those and thin shims should get the end play you need. I have swapped sensor boards from older to newer motors and don't recall this being a issue, but a straight swap without checking for sensor to rotor clearance is mandatory, even if you where to get a direct replacement sensor board.

TOO ALL, If you have other issues, R1 doesn't watch this forum, so if you have questions or concerns their facebook page is a better way to get faster answers.

Originally Posted by zeakemedia