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R1 Wurks brushless motors

Old 07-13-2015, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by nexxus
Sorry for the late reply, no serial # on this, bought it 2nd hand, so yeah it's a bit of a pandora's box. Ambient is usually 15-20c motor comes off 40-50c. Will change the gearing to 3.0 and timing to 2 as suggested, thanks!
Tried this, could only get the FDR down to 3.2 with the Pinions/Spurs I had and put the timing around 28 at the end bell, it did feel better and was fast on the straights, but still lacked that rip through the infield. A few cars I could open a gap up on the straight only to lose it coming out of the chicanes as they picked speed a fair bit quicker. Motor temps were 40c coming off, so thinking of ditching the fans to try and recoup as much voltage as I can.
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Old 07-14-2015, 08:47 AM
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i guess there was a typo there, i probably intended to write 3.8 or 4.0 if you are looking for more punch. the fact that its a used motor & there is no way to tell if the motor is good or not, you might be wasting your time.
not having a serial number also means that its not the current motor that most people are running right now.
you should always focus on gaining the punch, if you don't have punch you are over geared.

Originally Posted by nexxus
Tried this, could only get the FDR down to 3.2 with the Pinions/Spurs I had and put the timing around 28 at the end bell, it did feel better and was fast on the straights, but still lacked that rip through the infield. A few cars I could open a gap up on the straight only to lose it coming out of the chicanes as they picked speed a fair bit quicker. Motor temps were 40c coming off, so thinking of ditching the fans to try and recoup as much voltage as I can.
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Old 07-14-2015, 05:41 PM
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I was leaning towards a new motor, Would a V7 premium be advantageous over a standard motor? Where should I start gearing wise? If I drop the FDR from 3.2 to 3.8 I guess I stand to lose a lot of the top end?
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Old 07-14-2015, 06:58 PM
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Default 13.5 - 17.5 ultra

New to brushless motors... I have to say both of these MoMos rock and all at R1 have been a great help in getting this gas racer up to speed!

Thanks 🎉

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Old 07-16-2015, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by nexxus
I was leaning towards a new motor, Would a V7 premium be advantageous over a standard motor? Where should I start gearing wise? If I drop the FDR from 3.2 to 3.8 I guess I stand to lose a lot of the top end?
yes its significantly better
gearing & timing are suggestions only , its just a guide. if you find your self needing more top end, it would have to be tuned accordingly.
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Old 07-17-2015, 08:24 AM
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I picked up a 21.5 first gen motor. I lacked alot of speed compared to the other guys. MY car was geared at 3.556 Final drive and timing was set to 20 degree's in the main. i couldnt catch the 1st place in the main. he was much quicker then me. I have now went to a 84Tooth spur gear and kept the 54t pinion. to get a FDR of 3.111


I"m not sure if im goin the rightt direction or not. Track is not huge. i would say it tight.

thanx
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Old 07-21-2015, 11:14 AM
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If you read the last two pages, that should answer most of your questions.

Steve

Originally Posted by XCRAZYBENX
I picked up a 21.5 first gen motor. I lacked alot of speed compared to the other guys. MY car was geared at 3.556 Final drive and timing was set to 20 degree's in the main. i couldnt catch the 1st place in the main. he was much quicker then me. I have now went to a 84Tooth spur gear and kept the 54t pinion. to get a FDR of 3.111


I"m not sure if im goin the rightt direction or not. Track is not huge. i would say it tight.

thanx
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:18 PM
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So I pulled the trigger on a couple of new ones of these, a V7 Premium 21.5 and a V7 13.5 and I must say I am a bit disappointed, a motor stuffed in a bag in a can, no paperwork or manual / gearing advice as I had been used to with LRP / Novak / Dualsky motors. Only the 21.5 has a serial number sticker on it, the 13.5 doesn't. For the price, I guess I expected a bit more on it, hoping they perform once I work gearing out
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Old 07-30-2015, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by nexxus
So I pulled the trigger on a couple of new ones of these, a V7 Premium 21.5 and a V7 13.5 and I must say I am a bit disappointed, a motor stuffed in a bag in a can, no paperwork or manual / gearing advice as I had been used to with LRP / Novak / Dualsky motors. Only the 21.5 has a serial number sticker on it, the 13.5 doesn't. For the price, I guess I expected a bit more on it, hoping they perform once I work gearing out
So because R1 don't waste Money on fancy packaging your upset? The gearing advice with the above mentioned motors is mostly useless as well. Only the UP motors have the sticker. The std v7 is still a stomper motor.

Your in Perth and running bayside? Big track. I'm in Adelaide and I do run at little Hampton so that is also a monster of a track.

Everyone has different theories with timing and gearing. I'm no expert but I'm plenty fast and have helped a ton of others go fast too. I find most people over gear these motors. We had 6 x 21.5 drivers and 3 x 13.5 drivers at AOC testing heaps of theories. Everyone ended up using less teeth than before. I've tested lots of ratios and have yet to smoke a motor. Everyone drives differently so I think this has a lot to do with the way you want to set up the motor. I've also found these motors work better with lrp/nosram/Orion speedies vs my hw3.1.

To guess I reckon you'd see guys running 3.8 ratio in 13.5 and low 3's in the 21.5? I would run almost zero timing on the can with those ratios as with the R1 motors this is not always fastest. Others will disagree but I would Gear the 13.5 at 4.4/4.6 and run about 35 timing on the can. The 21.5 I would run at 3.8/3.9 and time it up to around 30 on the can. If you have a g force tester set the 13.5 to pull just under 4 Amp s and the 21.5 to 3 amps. These motors have a distinct scream to them when they really open up. I set timing then play with ratios then tickle the timing up a bit again. The UP motors need less timing to scream.

When set correctly the motor should come off around 45 to 50c if you have a decent fan. I use a small 30mm wtf to save weight. Id plug the R1 fan right here if I had one :wink

HTH
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:42 AM
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Ok cool, had a look at an old motor I picked up and this don't look to healthy (from a V7 13.5) what would cause the rotor to do this?
Attached Thumbnails R1 Wurks brushless motors-img_3323.jpg  
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Benzaah
So because R1 don't waste Money on fancy packaging your upset? The gearing advice with the above mentioned motors is mostly useless as well. Only the UP motors have the sticker. The std v7 is still a stomper motor.

Your in Perth and running bayside? Big track. I'm in Adelaide and I do run at little Hampton so that is also a monster of a track.

Everyone has different theories with timing and gearing. I'm no expert but I'm plenty fast and have helped a ton of others go fast too. I find most people over gear these motors. We had 6 x 21.5 drivers and 3 x 13.5 drivers at AOC testing heaps of theories. Everyone ended up using less teeth than before. I've tested lots of ratios and have yet to smoke a motor. Everyone drives differently so I think this has a lot to do with the way you want to set up the motor. I've also found these motors work better with lrp/nosram/Orion speedies vs my hw3.1.

To guess I reckon you'd see guys running 3.8 ratio in 13.5 and low 3's in the 21.5? I would run almost zero timing on the can with those ratios as with the R1 motors this is not always fastest. Others will disagree but I would Gear the 13.5 at 4.4/4.6 and run about 35 timing on the can. The 21.5 I would run at 3.8/3.9 and time it up to around 30 on the can. If you have a g force tester set the 13.5 to pull just under 4 Amp s and the 21.5 to 3 amps. These motors have a distinct scream to them when they really open up. I set timing then play with ratios then tickle the timing up a bit again. The UP motors need less timing to scream.

When set correctly the motor should come off around 45 to 50c if you have a decent fan. I use a small 30mm wtf to save weight. Id plug the R1 fan right here if I had one :wink

HTH
Ok thanks for that I run a V3.1 or a Tekin esc (LRP and me don't mix well) And I have a used 13.5 V7, a used 21.5 V7 and a new one of each on my bench with my motor tester so will aim for amp draw marks as you stated, is that at full rpm on the dial?
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by nexxus
Ok cool, had a look at an old motor I picked up and this don't look to healthy (from a V7 13.5) what would cause the rotor to do this?
Looks like the motor sucked in some debris which got stuck between the rotor and stator as it was running.
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:07 AM
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Ran the 17.5 motor for a few laps this Sunday. I was 2/10 off fast pace right out of the box. FDR 3.92.

Decided it was smooth/sluggish on the infield so dropped two teeth opinion. WRONG.
Halfway down the straight it maxed out. FDR 4.09 Seeing about 13k rpm on telemetry


Going back up 3 teeth and advancing timing. Timing was at 30* on motor checker.
Figured gearing up for top end and timing for punch. Looking for 3.84 FDR n 35* timing

Thoughts.

F
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:04 AM
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Did some testing on my Motor checker on my Tired old 21.5

Seems that efficiency tends to dump around 20-25 on the endbell timing (actual timing around 54)

Similar on a 13.5
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
R21.5 Wurks Std.pdf (157.9 KB, 299 views)
File Type: pdf
R13.5 Wurks Std.pdf (162.2 KB, 296 views)

Last edited by nexxus; 08-04-2015 at 06:29 AM.
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Benzaah
So because R1 don't waste Money on fancy packaging your upset? The gearing advice with the above mentioned motors is mostly useless as well. Only the UP motors have the sticker. The std v7 is still a stomper motor.

Your in Perth and running bayside? Big track. I'm in Adelaide and I do run at little Hampton so that is also a monster of a track.

Everyone has different theories with timing and gearing. I'm no expert but I'm plenty fast and have helped a ton of others go fast too. I find most people over gear these motors. We had 6 x 21.5 drivers and 3 x 13.5 drivers at AOC testing heaps of theories. Everyone ended up using less teeth than before. I've tested lots of ratios and have yet to smoke a motor. Everyone drives differently so I think this has a lot to do with the way you want to set up the motor. I've also found these motors work better with lrp/nosram/Orion speedies vs my hw3.1.

To guess I reckon you'd see guys running 3.8 ratio in 13.5 and low 3's in the 21.5? I would run almost zero timing on the can with those ratios as with the R1 motors this is not always fastest. Others will disagree but I would Gear the 13.5 at 4.4/4.6 and run about 35 timing on the can. The 21.5 I would run at 3.8/3.9 and time it up to around 30 on the can. If you have a g force tester set the 13.5 to pull just under 4 Amp s and the 21.5 to 3 amps. These motors have a distinct scream to them when they really open up. I set timing then play with ratios then tickle the timing up a bit again. The UP motors need less timing to scream.

When set correctly the motor should come off around 45 to 50c if you have a decent fan. I use a small 30mm wtf to save weight. Id plug the R1 fan right here if I had one :wink

HTH

Just ran my R1 on the G Force tester (well mine is Skyrc branded) and to get around 3 amps I need 0 endbell timing with the 21.5 (unloaded motor max throttle level) On a 13.5 to get to 4 amps Endbell timing around 5 (This is assuming you are pushing the throttle level on the tester to all 8 led's illuminated)

But I have identified the 21.5 sensor board is out so I will change that out and try gearing at 3.8 with 30 on the can as you suggested thanks.

Last edited by nexxus; 08-04-2015 at 06:29 AM.
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