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Old 10-08-2005, 10:27 PM   #976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
WOW!!!! This Ti3 I got from you is awsome. Just one question about it. I run the 9x3 for 12th scale, what is the timing I should run it at? I ran it at what it came with and it was ballistic. Then I ran it 7 - 8 deg. and it was fine.

Hey Carlos, glad to hear you liked the motor….The timing the motor came with is a good starting point, adjust the timing according to runtime, i.e. less timing will increase runtime while reducing power and more timing will decrease runtime and provide more overall power...


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Old 10-09-2005, 06:14 AM   #977
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Default 19T timming settings

Hi DC

I have a 19T outlaw motor on the way from DC with the timming would you suggest increasing the timming and changing the gear ratio so as the cell pack dumps just after the race time ends, or do you think this will create to much heat in the motor.
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Old 10-09-2005, 10:21 AM   #978
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Originally Posted by bjspinner
Hi DC

I have a 19T outlaw motor on the way from DC with the timming would you suggest increasing the timming and changing the gear ratio so as the cell pack dumps just after the race time ends, or do you think this will create to much heat in the motor.

Hi BJ,


Keep in mind that you're racing 19 turn, not modified. The Outlaw-19 motors already run slightly hotter than a regular 19 turn motor. As for timing, keep it @ 24* or less otherwise you could risk damaging the armature....


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Old 10-09-2005, 10:48 AM   #979
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Hey curtis, around what temperature should my motors be coming off the track?



Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2005, 06:39 PM   #980
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Originally Posted by Alex_kipper
Hey curtis, around what temperature should my motors be coming off the track?



Thanks!

Between 175-195*F is what I consider to be normal operating temps for mod motors.


Curtis

Last edited by Curtis Schlaht; 10-09-2005 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 10-09-2005, 07:02 PM   #981
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AWSOME IM IN THE ZONE!!!
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Old 10-09-2005, 07:13 PM   #982
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Congratulations to DC team driver Drew Ellis for taking the home the win in TC Stock at this weekends ROAR on-road Nats, winning the first 2 A-Mains….. Great job Drew!!!! Faster-Is-Better


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Old 10-09-2005, 07:34 PM   #983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curtis Schlaht
Congratulations to DC team driver Drew Ellis for taking the home the win in TC Stock at this weekends ROAR on-road Nats, winning the first 2 A-Mains….. Great job Drew!!!! Faster-Is-Better


Curtis,
Congrats guys!!
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Old 10-10-2005, 03:40 AM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curtis Schlaht
Between 175-195*F is what I consider to be normal operating temps for mod motors.


Curtis

hi curtis, where should i aim the laser of the temp gun? at the can? or inside the can towards the armature? thanks - jason

how about for other types of motors? will this temp range be ok?
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:59 AM   #985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highwayman
hi curtis, where should i aim the laser of the temp gun? at the can? or inside the can towards the armature? thanks - jason

how about for other types of motors? will this temp range be ok?

Check the temp on the can (not inside the motor).... 195*F is A bit hot for a stock (27 turn) motor, you’ll probably encounter a bit of fading at the end of the run if you're seeing these temps on a stock motor. For mod & 19 turn these temps are acceptable...


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Old 10-10-2005, 06:34 PM   #986
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What up Curtis...........

Tryin to recover from back to back weeks of racing. It adds up.

I wanna thank you for all the support for the last couple weeks. The motors were definately TOP FUEL as always. I honestly can say I did not lack any HP by any means as I definately motored some Top Drivers. I just need to move some people off the track I guess. Thanks bro and I'll see you in Cleveland.

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Old 10-11-2005, 02:46 AM   #987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curtis Schlaht
Check the temp on the can (not inside the motor).... 195*F is A bit hot for a stock (27 turn) motor, you’ll probably encounter a bit of fading at the end of the run if you're seeing these temps on a stock motor. For mod & 19 turn these temps are acceptable...


Curtis,

Thanks curtis... what temp should stock 27turn motors be at?

just a question regarding IB's, i read that other racers, when using IB batts, gear down anywhere from 1 to 3 teeth down, this is to prevent the motors from overheating thereby feeling flat in the latter stages of a race. any comments on this? thanks again.
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Old 10-11-2005, 05:20 AM   #988
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Awesome job Drew, see you soon.
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Old 10-11-2005, 11:51 AM   #989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highwayman
Thanks curtis... what temp should stock 27turn motors be at?

just a question regarding IB's, i read that other racers, when using IB batts, gear down anywhere from 1 to 3 teeth down, this is to prevent the motors from overheating thereby feeling flat in the latter stages of a race. any comments on this? thanks again.

The Cooler the better on a stocker, 175’ish seems to be optimum as far as maintaining consistence performance thorough out an entire 5 minute run. Granted there are certain circumstances where higher operating temperatures are prevalent, I.e. scorching hot days racing outdoors, or perhaps you own one stock motor that needs to be geared a tooth higher for maximum performance…. Bottom line, it comes down to laptimes!!! Maintaining consistence laptimes through out a entire 5 minute run is most important regardless of operating temperatures, laptimes don’t lie


We’ve done quite a bit of testing already with IB’s so far and I haven’t noticed a dramatic change in motor setup with regards to stock motors. We tune most of our stock motors with 767’s or F-brushes, both of which have the trailing edge of the brush narrowed .010”, as this helps reduce arching, commutator wear and operating temps. Paired with these semi-narrowed brushes we use a polarized spring combo, red spring on the – and a purple spring on the +, as this combo further helps to reduce arching while providing more bottom-end torque….


Modified motors on the other hand do require a bit more tuning to make use of these high-voltage low-IR batteries…. If one were to take a modified motor that was last used with 3300 (assuming the motor ran perfect with these cells) you would definitely notice more commutator wear/discoloration along with elevated operation temperatures. This is simply because mod arms have 90% less resistance than that of a stock motor, and can make better use of the lower internal resistance on these new IB cells. Being that the internal resistance is so low on these batteries mod motors now have more available amperage at their disposal, which isn’t a bad thing, it just means mod motors can now pull more amps out of every corner, and if tuned properly WILL create more power…..



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Old 10-11-2005, 06:59 PM   #990
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Default dyno arm

Any news on the armuture for the TD dyno?
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