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Old 05-13-2005, 05:02 PM   #1141
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Originally posted by fjm9898
the oo in br00d are zeros not capital OOs so its this ([email protected]) just copy and paste mine
I'll try that thanks.
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Old 05-17-2005, 06:17 AM   #1142
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eddie-

i have recently brought an 8*2 armature for my v2 and it was exactly what i was after love your work!
at the same time i brought my arm one of my mates got a complete 7*1v2 (we both brought from precision in hong kong) however about half race distance the motor wires desolder themselves from the brush tubes...he is using a novak gtx and good batts i was wondering if there could be anything to do with the motor that could create that sort of problem? i wouldnt of thought that current draw alone would do that to solder joints. i run an 8 and have no problems...i have checked his solder joints and they are fine...just thought i would ask because he is happy with the speed when it goes but cannot complete a full race without the power wires falling off and the gearing is fine!

thanks for your time
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Old 05-17-2005, 06:21 AM   #1143
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got to be down to gearing or timing,


What is the timing set at?
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Old 05-17-2005, 09:24 AM   #1144
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This happens in certain enviroments....I know at Carpet nats two years ago, Troy from Fantom was having the same problem with V2 motors.....guess it was happening some at Worlds also.

They used a higher temp solder with some silver in it, like 2%...its made by Kester, comes in a yellow and black package.

The problem is actually created by the endbell's ability to dissapate heat....it does it so well, and the brush tubes soak it up, thus causing the solder to melt.

To reduce heat, timing and gearing have big effects....so try adjusting them and see how that works, or try installing a fan to blow on the endbell.

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Old 05-17-2005, 12:08 PM   #1145
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hey eddie do you guys zapp magnets for free if we are at the track?
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Old 05-17-2005, 12:18 PM   #1146
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just thought i would ask because he is happy with the speed when it goes but cannot complete a full race without the power wires falling off and the gearing is fine!
You may be UNDER geared. Motors get REALLLLY hot when they are undergeared. Just to test that idea, run the motor up to around 5 volts on a breakin with No fan. After about 3 mins, the motor will be HOT. (just to confirm in your mind the idea of undergearing making motors hot)

I had the same thing happening to me last year, I finnally figured out that I was under geared. After i put the fan on my motor mounted in the car....

Fans are still cool!
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Old 05-17-2005, 12:33 PM   #1147
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Yes, motors can get really hot when undergeared.....as the amp draw can get pretty high when you are able to romp on it so easy....

And yes, at the track we will zap your magnets.....br00d motors will be free...other motors, there will be a charge.

Later EddieO
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Old 05-17-2005, 09:10 PM   #1148
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hey just wanted to say i got my motors in today and i must say, GREAT STUFF thanks a bunch and thanks for the fast shipping there were here within days.
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Old 05-18-2005, 01:01 AM   #1149
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thought i show you the new conversion kit for the ykomo SD/CGM
this is what c-sracing have over here to play with now
as well as the lovely timing jigs
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Old 05-18-2005, 04:05 AM   #1150
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thanks for the info everybody i will pass it on much appreciated. also just a quick question...i have a peak vantage surikarn 10*1 and i brought a Br00d 8*2 arm and the arm web is much smaller than the original peak one..i assume this will affect performance due to airgap and magnet strength? so my question is: is it possible to buy arms from you with different web thicknesses?
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Old 05-18-2005, 07:49 AM   #1151
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EddieO- Thanks again for the quick shipping and I'll see you at the Reedy race!
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Old 05-18-2005, 09:32 AM   #1152
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Hi,

I m planning to get a Team Br00d armature tonight and I would like to know if the Tossolinni edition has a special arm blank and what is the main difference compared to your V2/Ti and D5 arms..?

I m looking for your torquiest arm, for a 6 or 7T single

Thanks!
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Old 05-18-2005, 11:00 AM   #1153
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Tosolini Arms are $40...

They are hand selected through pre-balancing and conductivity tests.....and then wound with Chris's select wire sizes and patterns....

Karndriver, umm...once a motor is wound, you really can't see the web, thats where the wire is wound around...it should all be covered up by wire....

Our 9 turn and below arms use a 5mm blank, 10 turn an up uses the 4mm blank...

I am quite positive that Peak motor you have is wound on the smaller 4mm blank....and 10 turn on a 5mm blank would really only work for 1/12th scale, just to increase runtime.....

Now, if yer talking about a different part of the motor, that may be true....as we polish the stacks of our arms, which does remove a little material, thus making the airgap a little bit bigger.


Later EddieO
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Old 05-18-2005, 11:06 AM   #1154
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What up Eddie? I haven't heard if you've decided if you're coming to Reedy or not?
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Old 05-18-2005, 11:07 AM   #1155
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No Reedy race for me.....Peter will be there tuning motors for people who need it.

Later EddieO
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