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Old 05-09-2005, 01:09 AM   #1111
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alright eddie let me know, i just ran out of copper on my good motor so i need a new one and it has to be FAST! because i race some top guys and we all use nothing but the best and herd br00d is one of the best so ill give your motors a look and if i like them ill be sure to get more this summer when the big races are run
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Old 05-09-2005, 03:09 AM   #1112
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Hi Mr Eddieo

Just three quick questions

Q1 A question you must of been asked many times before but what brushes do you use in your 27T monster pro and binary motors.

Q2 We change our brushes every 4/5 runs, we also know that brush spring become weeker due to the heat they encounter so how often should we change brush springs.

Q3 Do you recommend using Tribo.

All these questions, but it's only that we what to keep our br00d motors running in the same excellent condition they were when we received them from you.

Many thanks

Blue
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:54 AM   #1113
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Most stocks that come out of br00d are either made with 4499 or 767 brushes. Lately, its been 4499, but some of the stuff CS racing ordered was done with 767 brushes....

Well, at a big race, I recheck the springs every race. It is true that the springs can fatigue because of the heat. The best way to check your springs is with a Fiddlestick.....a tool I carry, that colin should order!

Tribo is a solid comm drop....you won't see any performance gains on a dyno.....testing comm drops with a dyno is retarded. The only way to test them is 5 minutes on the track. At paved nats, where it was hot....we used it on all the motors. My guys placed 2nd and 3rd in the stock class. In cooler enviroments or indoor events, we typically run the motors dry. Peter Robinson just won stock nationals in march, with none.

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Old 05-09-2005, 10:16 AM   #1114
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Quote:
Originally posted by EddieO
Most stocks that come out of br00d are either made with 4499 or 767 brushes. Lately, its been 4499, but some of the stuff CS racing ordered was done with 767 brushes....
Why is that? Shouldnt the Putnam brushes be way more better than especially the Trins?
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Old 05-09-2005, 10:36 AM   #1115
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The putnams are good, but not as universal as the 767 or the 4499.

Plus, they are much harder to get....Putnam being a small company kinda gets shoved to the back of the line by the big companies when it comes to getting brushes made by Kirkwood.....

Later EddieO
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Old 05-09-2005, 10:54 AM   #1116
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Quote:
Originally posted by EddieO
Most stocks that come out of br00d are either made with 4499 or 767 brushes. Lately, its been 4499, but some of the stuff CS racing ordered was done with 767 brushes....

Well, at a big race, I recheck the springs every race. It is true that the springs can fatigue because of the heat. The best way to check your springs is with a Fiddlestick.....a tool I carry, that colin should order!

Tribo is a solid comm drop....you won't see any performance gains on a dyno.....testing comm drops with a dyno is retarded. The only way to test them is 5 minutes on the track. At paved nats, where it was hot....we used it on all the motors. My guys placed 2nd and 3rd in the stock class. In cooler enviroments or indoor events, we typically run the motors dry. Peter Robinson just won stock nationals in march, with none.

Later EddieO
Hi EddieO,

I have two of your 8*2 5mm web armatures (7.5MM).I am going to use them in a V2 based can and endbell. What recomendations can u give me in terms of brushes and springs.I have placed one in the new yokomo T6 can with the alluminium endbell.I am also using the hi-silver plutonium reedy brushes.Is that something u have tested on and can give me some advice on.

The track has a good 40M plus long straights and is basically high speed. Can u help to give me a good starting timing and ratio.

Thanks a million
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:23 AM   #1117
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In the V2 can, I would use the Hard Springs with Sprint Brushes..probably start with about 12 degrees of timing....and work from there.

As for the Yokomo can, we have not used these much. The Reedy brushes are good, just expensive....not really sure if they are any better than the XXX brush or the CS brush.

I would start out at about 12 degrees of timing, maybe up to 14 witht the Reedy brushes....for springs, I would probably use Purple/Purple (or the equal from another company).

Timing should be adjusted for the track. More timing will give more punch out of the corners, but less run time......less timing will give you more top end, less punch, and more run time.

Springs should be adjusted to the track also....if the track is really wide open you might be able to use a softer spring, but just don't go too soft, as brush bounce is BAD. It's always better to over spring....

Later EddieO
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Old 05-09-2005, 01:44 PM   #1118
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Eddie, what would you say about the MR brushes in one of your V2 motors? i heard they work well on low turn mods but not sure what tuners think about them.

i am running on a large tarmac track..and a mediumish track

what do your 8x2s come with as standard?
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Old 05-09-2005, 01:54 PM   #1119
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sprints .hard springs
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Old 05-09-2005, 03:03 PM   #1120
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any word on better batch of f-brushes?

eddie, send me a pm when you find out if you have a binary, if you dont ill probably still get a monster off you.
are your blueprinted motors garenteed to be better then your pros?
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Old 05-09-2005, 03:11 PM   #1121
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Eddie,

I will be running stock 4 cell oval,at the norcca nats in a couple of weeks.huge track 360 ft+ runline,what kinda set up do you recommend for a monster.
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Old 05-09-2005, 03:48 PM   #1122
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The MR springs work good on big tracks in hot conditions......springs really come down to trying stuff to see what works best.

Hyper1, I've always liked the putnam brushes for oval motors....I usually shave a little off the brushes trailing edge (just a bit) to remove resistance in the circuit.

As for springs, I kinda cheat.....I find out what the fast guys are running in oval and start there....and will work my way down to the softest spring I can run without getting any brush bounce (BAD!). Red/Green is pretty neutral for most tracks if you are having troubles finding info.

Later EddieO
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Old 05-09-2005, 03:51 PM   #1123
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Eddie, thanks.

but, i noticed you mentioned filing a bit of the trailing edge....i have heard mixed thoughts about this.

some people say don't file anything, some say file trailing, some say file leading but i am totally confused.

surely filing the leading will retard the timing where as filing the trailing will advance it.

what are your thoughts?
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Old 05-09-2005, 03:59 PM   #1124
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I rarely file just one edge....

First, never file just the leading edge....thats retarded (both ways).

I only file to reduce rolling resistance and arcing......I don't believe it actually advances the timing.

On a club level, don't even bother....


Later EddieO
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Old 05-09-2005, 04:01 PM   #1125
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GP3700 packs are IN STOCK!

Very limited supply!

1.170-1.175 6 cell 440+ runtime $50
1.176-1.179 6 cell 440+ runtime $54
1.180-1.183 6 cell 450+ runtime $60
1.184-1.185 6 cell 450+ runtime $62
1.186-1.188 6 cell 450+ runtime $64

My cells just come in baggies right now, but you get 5 battery bars at no additional charge.

Shipping is $5 FLAT rate in the US!

Later EddieO
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