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Old 11-17-2004, 04:31 PM   #241
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4503's are Trinity's newer "99 plus" compound of brush. They have more silver than a 767, therefore I was able to sqeeze more power out of the motor. 767's are always a good place to start on my motor though. 4505's are the same as a 4503 just with cross serrations.

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Old 11-17-2004, 04:34 PM   #242
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Didn't know that I certainly will try those out. Thanks
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Old 11-17-2004, 04:44 PM   #243
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I have 4505 in stock I think.... but to be honest, the cross serrations are a pain in the ass.

Later EddieO
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Old 11-17-2004, 04:49 PM   #244
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Old 11-18-2004, 01:30 AM   #245
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HI,
Just got a Brood Monster to try here in the UK through Colin at CS Racing. Gave it a run last night on our local track which is indoors on carpet and not very large ( sub 7 sec laps) and frankly I can't remember when I have been more disappointed with a new motor it does not want to perform. I started off gearing at around 9.5 gave it a few laps then tried to push and there's nothing there went to 10.2 and then back to around 9 to see if I'd just got the gearing wrong but no better. Left it in for the first heat hoping it would be better with my race cells but I struggled and it got very hot. Finally swapped to an old ( very old ) Matrix Stock and saw an immediate improvement of nearly 3 laps!!
Whats the problem?? from what I've read on this read I expected this baby to fly.
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Old 11-18-2004, 08:44 AM   #246
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Bosscat, i don't know what car you have but i race with a Xray
and my gearing is in the 8.39 with the same motor and it is fast
try going down you might have your gearing too high.
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Old 11-18-2004, 10:14 AM   #247
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Guys,

Remember that the monster does not like to be overgeared or undergeared...it definately has a sweet spot

I have been running in the 6.97 to 7.5 range in my 415 and the monsters haul....any brand of monster, but esp Eddie's motors....
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:54 AM   #248
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Quote:
Originally posted by EddieO
1/12th scale uses only 4.8 volts, which in effect causes the brush to bounce less on the comm, so you use less tension without worry of additional arching.....and in a lower voltage application, all a stiffer spring would do is put additional drag on the comm and you will actually LOSE power.

I usually start with red/green for 1/12th scale on monster or epic roar stocks....now if its a fairly open track, I will drop the tension to reduce drag on the comm even further....usually a green/green...sometimes even tweaking the negative spring to be slightly less than a normal green.

Later EddieO
How light of ternsion are you talking about here? For for the Fiddle Stick.
Also, what brushes do you recommend 12th scale stock?

Thanks
John
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Old 11-18-2004, 12:24 PM   #249
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I usually use cut 4499 brushes for 1/12th scale, but sometimes we will use putnam greens.

As fpr springs...

Here is a fiddlstick chart....

Silver= 8.0 F.S. units
Purple= 7.0 F.S units
Red= 6.0 F.S. units
Green= 5.5 F.S. units
Blue= 5.0 F.S. units


If you don't have a fiddlstick, get one!!! They are $14 through me.... easily one of the best tools you will ever buy.

Later EddieO
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Old 11-18-2004, 01:11 PM   #250
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Thanks, You mean cut like BJ does the brushes for MVP's? laydown .140 wide.
Yes I have a fiddle stick

Last edited by JohnB; 11-18-2004 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 11-18-2004, 02:29 PM   #251
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Dr Smooth, I run a Yokomo SD the motor was getting hot on 9.06
if I go closer to the gearing you suggest its gonna fry and I'll loose on pickup out of the corners.
About the only thing I can think of trying is some lighter springs say a red and a green to replace the purple ones on it at present.
Perhaps someone from Brood would like to comment to help out an unhappy customer??????
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Old 11-18-2004, 03:55 PM   #252
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I will try!!!! I generally gear a monster stock around a final drive raito of 7.8-8.3 with rubber tires. Our carpet track is generally about 75x40ft. I Can tell your track must be much smaller mainly because the lap times are so quick. Without general demensions and a general idea what the track looks like and avalible traction I cannot help you to my best abilities. That abotu as much help as I can give with the given information.

-Korey
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Old 11-18-2004, 04:09 PM   #253
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Default Monstor getting hot

Quote:
Just got a Brood Monster to try here in the UK through Colin at CS Racing. Gave it a run last night on our local track which is indoors on carpet and not very large ( sub 7 sec laps) and frankly I can't remember when I have been more disappointed with a new motor it does not want to perform. I started off gearing at around 9.5 gave it a few laps then tried to push and there's nothing there went to 10.2 and then back to around 9 to see if I'd just got the gearing wrong but no better. Left it in for the first heat hoping it would be better with my race cells but I struggled and it got very hot. Finally swapped to an old ( very old ) Matrix Stock and saw an immediate improvement of nearly 3 laps!!
Hi Bosscat

From my experieance with carpet racing you are running far to low a gearing for the motor in question. It is not fair to rubbish a product when it is not setup correctly to perform at it's best.
my suggestion would be to start about 6.6 with a rollout being around 1.162" or 29.5mm and gear probably down a bit from there toward 7.0.
Use reedy 767 brushes. Use purple springs on the motor else you will lose torque with green and red springs. Make sure your comm is true and round. You may also try a red spring on the neg side. My suggestion is you should be using a Team Br00d P2K2 motor for the description you have given of your track.
We use Team Br00d motors and they fly
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Old 11-18-2004, 04:12 PM   #254
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Korey,
Picture if you will a badmington court with about 6 feet added at each end at say 3 feet at each side and you have our hall.
We usually have a straight running right down one side with a fast sweeper at the end leading into a tight infield then a slower top corner to bring the cars across the loop to complete the lap.
Do you think the spring change is worth doing???
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Old 11-18-2004, 04:42 PM   #255
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The red/green spring combo is generally ment for buigger tracks where you need to let the motor spool up to a higher rpm. Your tracks seems to be smaller than an average track so I would stay with the purple springs. The reason for using the purple springs is to get the bottom end grunt you need when running in a heavy touring car. The Red/green combo will let the motor spool up easier and to a higher RPM, but it would lack alot of the raw power out of the turns to actually propell the car around the track.

Back onto the subject of gear ratio. The monster has a certain window it will perform best. I'm thinking you might be out of that window a bit. The window is different for every track, but there is a point where you can over gear a motor AS WELL AS undergear it too much. When it is undergeared to much the motor will be at high RPM and out of it's powerband more than what it would liek to be. Generally at high rpm motors are less efficeint and heat up.

My suggestion would be this, gear your motor to top out right before you turn at the end of the straight. Then check your lap times. If your laptimes are faster that what they were before then your moving in the right direction. Then gear for infeild punch and stuff. I always gear for the fastest lap times because thats all that matters in the end.

If you honestly have tried to get the correct gearing and maybe even change your driving style a bit, I would suggest purchasing our P2K2 based stock motor. It will have a powerband better suited for your application. It is a TORQUE based motor where as the monster is a RPM based motor.

I know figuruing out the best gearing and setups for motors can be frustrating at times. Trust me I know, because thats what I do all the time!!! So please just give our product another chance. Hopefully what I have said will help you find the sweet spot in the motor. If you have any more questions feel free to post it here. Happy Racing.

-Korey Harbke
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