Team Br00d Racing Motors
10-16-2005, 02:59 PM
#1666
Tech Addict
Toso- you're absolutely right man, it isn't my problem. No wait wait wait..... If someone goes on a forum and bashes my sponsor, especially my newest sponsor, with nonsense that shouldn't be displayed so everyone can see, it becomes my problem.
10-16-2005, 09:05 PM
#1672
Highwayman......for the best performance, skim it, then break in for another 30 seconds or so....but I would only do this at a really big race....not worth it for club racing and stuff....doesn't hurt though if you don't mind buying a new motor sooner.....will be fast though.
Mark, we already have an order in for the new Atlas based motors.....we are very excited. They have a stock, 19t, and modified.....we will be stocking them all.....
Dodgeguy, they are on the way in....will be here in less than 10 days....you can order now, as we have already sold quite a few on preorder.....the site will still let you order.....
Kerry, motor temp is pointless if yer running good........I don't care what anyone tells you. If your motor makes it five minutes and you have NO fade and its fast, no problem, even if its 200 degrees........if yer getting fade, not fast, or dumping....then, you need to change your gearing and make sure everything is right with the motor (brushes still aligned, no binding, etc)....there is no magic to lower temp though, besides gearing and making sure the motor is in working order.
Later EddieO
Mark, we already have an order in for the new Atlas based motors.....we are very excited. They have a stock, 19t, and modified.....we will be stocking them all.....
Dodgeguy, they are on the way in....will be here in less than 10 days....you can order now, as we have already sold quite a few on preorder.....the site will still let you order.....
Kerry, motor temp is pointless if yer running good........I don't care what anyone tells you. If your motor makes it five minutes and you have NO fade and its fast, no problem, even if its 200 degrees........if yer getting fade, not fast, or dumping....then, you need to change your gearing and make sure everything is right with the motor (brushes still aligned, no binding, etc)....there is no magic to lower temp though, besides gearing and making sure the motor is in working order.
Later EddieO
10-17-2005, 12:27 AM
#1673
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
Mark
Ask Eddie0 again
he properly missed your post
(busy man Edd is )
Ask Eddie0 again
he properly missed your post
(busy man Edd is )
10-17-2005, 02:24 AM
#1674
Tech Initiate
Ok Mr Jolly I will!
Hi EddieO
have you seen the new V12 atlas motor that integy are producing?
It uses standard brushes but at a 30 degree angle (as V2) but with all copper endbell gear and standard springs. It's also got brush holders that are closer to the comm as the bearing is held in place from outside the endbell via a circuit board.
So the brushes get max overlap and hard switching an also 30 degress angle and you can tune it to your hearts content with std brushes and springs.
Sounds and looks really good! Big Jim would approve!
They have an advert in racer mag this month
Mark
Hi EddieO
have you seen the new V12 atlas motor that integy are producing?
It uses standard brushes but at a 30 degree angle (as V2) but with all copper endbell gear and standard springs. It's also got brush holders that are closer to the comm as the bearing is held in place from outside the endbell via a circuit board.
So the brushes get max overlap and hard switching an also 30 degress angle and you can tune it to your hearts content with std brushes and springs.
Sounds and looks really good! Big Jim would approve!
They have an advert in racer mag this month
Mark
10-17-2005, 08:00 AM
#1676
what's the break-in process like if the new atlas motors use standard brushes, but an angle? seems it might be a longer process??
10-17-2005, 08:09 AM
#1677
Tech Addict
This is what happens when the motor company and driver dont have any way to get ahold of each other...i have been trying to get a order from you right after the reedy race, your new web site i got no feed back or the countless emails i have sent to both of you....look i did my best to contact you guys way before this race..i only went on here so i would get some sort of feedback from you eddie thats all i wanted..well thanks for finally getting back to me....ya peter you hooked it up , but i was building motors for me and jason and your brushes were low too..you said that eddie would ship out more i said do it we need some . i know you that you had a race to win im not going to bother you for something that i should all ready have....my point exactly .......the people that quit they had the same issues ....me
well if you cant get talk to your sponsor you come to races with nothing to race...take care all , i tried
well if you cant get talk to your sponsor you come to races with nothing to race...take care all , i tried
10-17-2005, 08:23 AM
#1678
eddie thanx for all the support, i have just picked up a dyno 30 what are you thoughts on this unit? and can i get accurate readings for stocks motors and what setting should i use and what numbers should i look for? i know its alot of questions to answer but i appreciate the response.
all the best
all the best
10-17-2005, 08:38 AM
#1679
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by EddieO
If peter didn't bring enough brushes...
I dunno....
The fact your putting crap like this on the net....umm, go run for someone else......I've had 3 team guys QUIT because of your crap...
And Toso and my business is between him and I.....nobody else....
Later EddieO
I dunno....
The fact your putting crap like this on the net....umm, go run for someone else......I've had 3 team guys QUIT because of your crap...
And Toso and my business is between him and I.....nobody else....
Later EddieO
10-17-2005, 08:58 AM
#1680
Kerry, The 20 amp and 28 amp numbers are the most important...
I look for a motor to be at least 90 watts at 20 amps and 120+ at 28 amps....
Anything less, won't be very fast.......
Also, keep in mind, that no two dynos read the same.....what might be 125 watts on mine, might be 120 on yours, and 130 on some other guys....
Figure out what a fast motor looks like on your dyno (use the track to set the ballpark)....and then go from there.
Later EddieO
I look for a motor to be at least 90 watts at 20 amps and 120+ at 28 amps....
Anything less, won't be very fast.......
Also, keep in mind, that no two dynos read the same.....what might be 125 watts on mine, might be 120 on yours, and 130 on some other guys....
Figure out what a fast motor looks like on your dyno (use the track to set the ballpark)....and then go from there.
Later EddieO