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Old 10-16-2005, 03:59 PM   #1666
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Toso- you're absolutely right man, it isn't my problem. No wait wait wait..... If someone goes on a forum and bashes my sponsor, especially my newest sponsor, with nonsense that shouldn't be displayed so everyone can see, it becomes my problem.
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Old 10-16-2005, 04:00 PM   #1667
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Hey there University of Miami Student...Its SPONSOR!! LOL

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Old 10-16-2005, 05:00 PM   #1668
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Eddie thanks fo the pack I bought last week from you. They were awsome!!! I had one run on them and could not believe the punch. I will get some more from you when they are in stock.
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Old 10-16-2005, 05:26 PM   #1669
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want to thank the folks at team brood for very quick delivery of my packs! can't wait to try them out next weekend
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Old 10-16-2005, 07:14 PM   #1670
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Eddie,
Thanks for the fast shipping.
I could have ran my new batteries and motors today if it wasn't for the fact I spaced checking the mail yesterday.
Everything looks great.
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Old 10-16-2005, 09:47 PM   #1671
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[email protected]!
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:05 PM   #1672
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Highwayman......for the best performance, skim it, then break in for another 30 seconds or so....but I would only do this at a really big race....not worth it for club racing and stuff....doesn't hurt though if you don't mind buying a new motor sooner.....will be fast though.

Mark, we already have an order in for the new Atlas based motors.....we are very excited. They have a stock, 19t, and modified.....we will be stocking them all.....

Dodgeguy, they are on the way in....will be here in less than 10 days....you can order now, as we have already sold quite a few on preorder.....the site will still let you order.....

Kerry, motor temp is pointless if yer running good........I don't care what anyone tells you. If your motor makes it five minutes and you have NO fade and its fast, no problem, even if its 200 degrees........if yer getting fade, not fast, or dumping....then, you need to change your gearing and make sure everything is right with the motor (brushes still aligned, no binding, etc)....there is no magic to lower temp though, besides gearing and making sure the motor is in working order.


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Old 10-17-2005, 01:27 AM   #1673
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Mark
Ask Eddie0 again
he properly missed your post
(busy man Edd is )
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Old 10-17-2005, 03:24 AM   #1674
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Ok Mr Jolly I will!

Hi EddieO

have you seen the new V12 atlas motor that integy are producing?

It uses standard brushes but at a 30 degree angle (as V2) but with all copper endbell gear and standard springs. It's also got brush holders that are closer to the comm as the bearing is held in place from outside the endbell via a circuit board.

So the brushes get max overlap and hard switching an also 30 degress angle and you can tune it to your hearts content with std brushes and springs.

Sounds and looks really good! Big Jim would approve!

They have an advert in racer mag this month

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Old 10-17-2005, 03:49 AM   #1675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO
Mark, we already have an order in for the new Atlas based motors.....we are very excited. They have a stock, 19t, and modified.....we will be stocking them all.....
I think you missed his reply....

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Old 10-17-2005, 09:00 AM   #1676
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what's the break-in process like if the new atlas motors use standard brushes, but an angle? seems it might be a longer process??
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:09 AM   #1677
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This is what happens when the motor company and driver dont have any way to get ahold of each other...i have been trying to get a order from you right after the reedy race, your new web site i got no feed back or the countless emails i have sent to both of you....look i did my best to contact you guys way before this race..i only went on here so i would get some sort of feedback from you eddie thats all i wanted..well thanks for finally getting back to me....ya peter you hooked it up , but i was building motors for me and jason and your brushes were low too..you said that eddie would ship out more i said do it we need some . i know you that you had a race to win im not going to bother you for something that i should all ready have....my point exactly .......the people that quit they had the same issues ....me

well if you cant get talk to your sponsor you come to races with nothing to race...take care all , i tried
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:23 AM   #1678
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eddie thanx for all the support, i have just picked up a dyno 30 what are you thoughts on this unit? and can i get accurate readings for stocks motors and what setting should i use and what numbers should i look for? i know its alot of questions to answer but i appreciate the response.

all the best
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:38 AM   #1679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO
If peter didn't bring enough brushes...

I dunno....

The fact your putting crap like this on the net....umm, go run for someone else......I've had 3 team guys QUIT because of your crap...

And Toso and my business is between him and I.....nobody else....


Later EddieO
all i wanted is some body to kindly get back to me, if you cant do it you get negative feedback, its just like all the companies that order from you if they dont get thier order out they come on here and ask weres my stuff...all i wanted to know is how do get my stuff....sorry for wanting to now if i could get some brushes,,,you over reacted to me so im the bad guy ...commutication is everything Eddie thats all i wanted...
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:58 AM   #1680
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Kerry, The 20 amp and 28 amp numbers are the most important...

I look for a motor to be at least 90 watts at 20 amps and 120+ at 28 amps....

Anything less, won't be very fast.......

Also, keep in mind, that no two dynos read the same.....what might be 125 watts on mine, might be 120 on yours, and 130 on some other guys....

Figure out what a fast motor looks like on your dyno (use the track to set the ballpark)....and then go from there.

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