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Old 04-01-2013, 05:50 PM   #361
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The setup was a little different from Peters. I use 0 deg reactive castor, Green CRC center spring, 1000 cst center shock oil and 1.98 front tires and 2.01 rear tires. I also used the Parma DB-9 body in the last main. It had more steering and I wish I would have used it sooner. My car was really fast in the last main.
Thanks Paul.

IIRC, Peter was using the AE Red center spring w/ 350cst oil? How did you feel that the thicker(much thicker) oil and softer center spring affected the car?
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:00 PM   #362
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Thanks Paul.

IIRC, Peter was using the AE Red center spring w/ 350cst oil? How did you feel that the thicker(much thicker) oil and softer center spring affected the car?
I'm pretty sure the green crc spring is like a copper ae so it was stiffer as well as the oil, I was looking for more steering. Yes that is what Peter was using.
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:55 PM   #363
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Hello,
I had a question(s?) on setup

Peter's Snowbird’s setup showed a wide front end (199mm), and you mentioned the search for steering and hard center springs.

i have been keeping the front end narrow (closer to 195mm) to get more front bite with softer front and side springs (long AE .018 fronts and olive or .020 linear sides), and AE red center spring. the problem with this is the front end turns in nicely on slower tighter turns, but pushes on power thru faster middle size turns, (the push is less obvious in fast sweepers). also the front tires have always worn about 2x's the rears.

moving to a harder side spring makes for less turn in (my perception) but cuts faster thru the fast turns but on 3 wheels(lifts inside front) with borderline diffing out. this can be faster but not easier to drive fast.

i would expect the stiffer center spring would loosen up the car on power, but what about turn in? how do you get the car to turn off power? and how do you find the wear rate front to rear?

mostly i wanted to verify:
1) you had been successful with a 199mm front end
2) more center spring was the source of (controllable) on-power steering
3) what was the source of off-power steering.
4) is 2x front/rear tire wear the norm in WGT?

thanks for any insight on this, i need help to beat Berger just once!
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Old 06-04-2013, 12:53 PM   #364
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Originally Posted by avs View Post
Hello,
I had a question(s?) on setup

Peter's Snowbird’s setup showed a wide front end (199mm), and you mentioned the search for steering and hard center springs.

i have been keeping the front end narrow (closer to 195mm) to get more front bite with softer front and side springs (long AE .018 fronts and olive or .020 linear sides), and AE red center spring. the problem with this is the front end turns in nicely on slower tighter turns, but pushes on power thru faster middle size turns, (the push is less obvious in fast sweepers). also the front tires have always worn about 2x's the rears.

moving to a harder side spring makes for less turn in (my perception) but cuts faster thru the fast turns but on 3 wheels(lifts inside front) with borderline diffing out. this can be faster but not easier to drive fast.

i would expect the stiffer center spring would loosen up the car on power, but what about turn in? how do you get the car to turn off power? and how do you find the wear rate front to rear?

mostly i wanted to verify:
1) you had been successful with a 199mm front end
2) more center spring was the source of (controllable) on-power steering
3) what was the source of off-power steering.
4) is 2x front/rear tire wear the norm in WGT?

thanks for any insight on this, i need help to beat Berger just once!
To me the stiffer center spring gives more steering everywhere. The front tires usually wear more than the rears. Im not sure about 2 times though. Have you tried saucing the whole front tire but maybe the outside edge for more steering? Since then we went the narrower front end spacing and shorter wheelbase so we could run a softer suspension setup and still have steering.
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:18 AM   #365
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Originally Posted by chicky03 View Post
To me the stiffer center spring gives more steering everywhere. The front tires usually wear more than the rears. Im not sure about 2 times though. Have you tried saucing the whole front tire but maybe the outside edge for more steering? Since then we went the narrower front end spacing and shorter wheelbase so we could run a softer suspension setup and still have steering.
thanks, i am still just setting up the onpoint wgt so i am just gathering info.

the 2x's wear was some time ago with my S100, lately with the Griffin10 the front wear has been less severe but still faster than the rear. i do sauce 9/10 of the fronts.

i have only been fiddling between gold/red centers, i will try beyond red.

i didn't have a 10r5, so just wanted to verify the main plate is drilled for a 10r5 bumper?
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:21 PM   #366
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Last weekend Australia's largest 12th scale race, the carpet burn was run. I bought the op12c.1 to replace my AE12r5.1 for this event and as such had only one race day on the car before the event. I think i have the only onpoint car in Australia and it generated a lot of intrest in the pits. The track is a high grip permanent carpet track, on the tight side with an 8.5 second lap in mod 12th (mod tc is 9.6). They use a control traction compound called matrix which make the tires very gummy, this dictated the purple fonts as i couldn't make magenta's last 8mins. As the matrix compound had been in short supply a few other odourless compounds had been used again changing the track.

The car was very easy to drive from the first run, but need more steering. After many changes the car was almost perfect for the finals and i managed to drive from 5th on the grid to 4th, 3rd and 3rd across the 3 A mains to finish 3rd overall in mod 12th. I feel if i got the steering sorted earlier in qualifying leading to a higher grid spot i would be able to fight for the win.

Setup was:

1* camber
0.5 toe out
1mm bump steer shim
1.80* castor with 10* mount
3.7 ride hight (one bump on the track and it was into the full gas sweeper )
.018 AE spring
30k kingpin lube
3 kingpin shims on axle 166mm width
CRC Purples 40.5mm
1/2 goop Mighty Gripper V3 15min (MG lasted 8min, Matrix more grip but 4-5min)

Hot bodies shock
Low front, 2mm rear mount
30wt losi
AE gold spring
1mm droop
15k side tubes
AE blue 1/2 turn preload
3.8 ride hight

170.5mm wide
4mm ride hight
CRC Magenta 43mm
Full goop mighty gripper v3 20min
TR12 body

The car still needed a touch more steering, thinking rear width to 172 but i didn't have enough shims with the r5 axle. Now found an xray shim kit, 0.5mm,1mm, and 2mm axle shims. Also will change to the amr body but the tr12 was the only one in stock at the time.
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:46 AM   #367
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Have ordered my car so tom there is 2 on points in Australia now

My question is the front brace, have ordered a serpent brace is that what others are using? If so how many o rings .. From photos looks like one

Also mainly used crc front end is there any advice rounds shims on kingpin on the r5??
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:00 AM   #368
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Normally run 3 kingpin shims on top of the upper arm and 1 between arm and steering block. With older springs or the 0.018s you can add a 4th shim on top if you have to much free play but you don't want to pre load the spring. Check out the 3 onpoint videos on you tube they mention it.

I havnt run a brace on the car yet but people shim the upper arm mount off the bulkhead towards the centre (makes the top arm longer without adjusting front width). So this would effect the length of the brace, orings etc. For highway start with no shims for more initial steering. The more shims you add gives later steering (mid corner) and makes the car lazy off centre, which is better for more open fast tracks.
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:08 AM   #369
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My car was money in the last final Alex so I'd start with that setup.

Also front width is a big adjustment with the ae front end, you add ae front ride hight shims between the lower arm and the bulkhead. Try 0.5mm each side at a time.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:57 PM   #370
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I need a setup for 12th scale. I'm going to the IIC for the first time and will in 17.5 class. I've got OP12C with OP12c.1 top pod plate and shock tower, CRC Encore shock, 12R5 front end.

Just need something to start off with.

Thanks Roy
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:24 PM   #371
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This is the setup they ran at IIC. Their mod and 13.5 class are the same with the exception to the gearing - 40/80
Attached Files
File Type: pdf OP12C_EditableSetupSheet.pdf (298.4 KB, 234 views)
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:58 PM   #372
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Has anyone tested the car with the battery sideways over inline??

Loving the car but like to test stuff out
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:19 AM   #373
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Will On Point be at the IIC this year?
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:00 AM   #374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyU View Post
I need a setup for 12th scale. I'm going to the IIC for the first time and will in 17.5 class. I've got OP12C with OP12c.1 top pod plate and shock tower, CRC Encore shock, 12R5 front end.

Just need something to start off with.

Thanks Roy
Used to run that car, this may help

Inline Lipo, plugs back

Tires
Fr 41mm
Rr 43mm
Black, Yellow, or Ulti X-hard fr, X-med rr

Ride Height
3.5mm

Front springs .020, no droop
-1 camber
4 caster

Center
40wt, IRS shock
Spring AE Blue
.5-1mm droop

Side
10K damping
Springs AE Black, 2 turns down & tweak
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Old 09-21-2013, 02:42 AM   #375
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Hey! Is the website down? Can't get there from here or anywhere.
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