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Old 08-15-2005, 07:51 AM   #1306
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Default losi cars fusion batteries

hi just want to know if the 3700's will fit in losi bk2/mf2 and the xxx4's please
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Old 08-15-2005, 08:33 AM   #1307
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I run 3700's in my mf2 with no problems. Some people say that they had to trim the battery tray down. I never had to though. I just charged them up, pop them in and off I went.
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:56 PM   #1308
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Dam almost found US on page 3... whats up with that ???? up up WE go .. to the top !!
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Old 08-17-2005, 11:55 AM   #1309
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Hey whats up guys. I have a really big race coming up. So I need all the power I can get. All I run are fusion packs. I have heard off deadshorting. Someone at my local track said it would make my car go faster but my packs might not last that long. This is what he said to do

-discharge the pack with the light bulbs down to 5.4 volts
-put it on the novak discharge tray in DS mode and once the lights start flashing leave it on there for about a half hour
-then run a wire from pos to neg
-let it sit like that for a couple of days. He said the longer the better

-Then disconnect the wire and charge the pack right before the race at 7 amps and set the mv peak @ 40 on my pulsar.

Does that sound right? Does it really give you more power? Thanks guys.
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Old 08-17-2005, 12:10 PM   #1310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HRCRACER123
Hey whats up guys. I have a really big race coming up. So I need all the power I can get. All I run are fusion packs. I have heard off deadshorting. Someone at my local track said it would make my car go faster but my packs might not last that long. This is what he said to do

-discharge the pack with the light bulbs down to 5.4 volts
-put it on the novak discharge tray in DS mode and once the lights start flashing leave it on there for about a half hour
-then run a wire from pos to neg
-let it sit like that for a couple of days. He said the longer the better

-Then disconnect the wire and charge the pack right before the race at 7 amps and set the mv peak @ 40 on my pulsar.

Does that sound right? Does it really give you more power? Thanks guys.
You will hear a lot of arguments in favor and against dead shorting. With dead-shorting, you will increase the average discharge voltage of the pack, but reduce runtime as well. So, you would not want to dead-short modified racing packs, or if you're already having trouble making runtime. Dead-shorting will likely reduce the life of your packs as well.

7 amps is a little overkill for a charging amperage, 6 is more than enough.
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Old 08-17-2005, 12:16 PM   #1311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HRCRACER123
Hey whats up guys. I have a really big race coming up. So I need all the power I can get. All I run are fusion packs. I have heard off dead shorting. Someone at my local track said it would make my car go faster but my packs might not last that long. This is what he said to do

-discharge the pack with the light bulbs down to 5.4 volts
-put it on the novak discharge tray in DS mode and once the lights start flashing leave it on there for about a half hour
-then run a wire from pos to neg
-let it sit like that for a couple of days. He said the longer the better

-Then disconnect the wire and charge the pack right before the race at 7 amps and set the mv peak @ 40 on my pulsar.

Does that sound right? Does it really give you more power? Thanks guys.
GP3300 batteries purchased before the Snowbirds (Feb. 2004) respond well to dead shorting (old cells gain some run time, IR stays the same voltage increases). Newer GP3300 or GP3700 do not respond well to dead shorting (New cells lose run time, Old cells stay the same, IR gets higher, voltage stays the same) .

If you have new packs the best way to treat then is to:

1. Just before charging put the cells in a tray until the lights are out and the pack is at room temp. Do not charge it if it is still warm.
2. Charge it at 6A for stock or 19T. Charge at 5A or Much More Step Charge for Mod. It is critical to time your charge so your batt peaks just before you are up!
3. Re-peak at 5A until you see the voltage starts to drop on the chargers display. The cells will continue to get hotter after you take them off the charger. If you wait for the pack to peak again it might get too hot unless you are indoors or its cold outside.
4. Race it.
5. Dump it at 30A to 5.4v (6 cell) or 3.6c (4 cell)
6. Store it until the next race.
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Old 08-17-2005, 03:45 PM   #1312
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Adrian,

Thats a very similar method to mine but I equalise for longer, I try and get 5 hours in or more on a very mild equaliser like the integy zero which I like. I will also pre equalise the night before I race and go till the lights go off at least. Then I put them back on the tray on the day of the race until I take them off to charge.

My 3700's which I have had for 4 or 5 months or so are getting about 4600Mah in on charge. This is down a little from new but I put most of that down to the really hot weather here in CA the last 6 weeks or so.
The only other difference I have is that I discharge to 1v/cell and that's not much of a difference.

Chris
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Old 08-19-2005, 07:23 PM   #1313
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OH NO !!! NOT page 3 .... here ya go .. back up to the top spot !!!!
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Old 08-21-2005, 09:10 PM   #1314
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Default ...random incident or rotten pack?

guys,

1 of my very new packs showed terrible deterioration during batt. maintenance routine. This is the pack that was charged the least no. of time (just once!); and stored charged due to cancellation of race. Other packs at most had been charged/discharged twice prior to yesterday's maintenance. All the packs were trayed on RealTime until lights were very dim.

Charging was done on CDC v6B @ 5amp, 3mv/c. I didn't write down the exact figures (capacity, IR etc) during the 1st round of charging since the other 5 packs were okay except the last one which has comparatively high internal resistance (56 miliohm) vs others' ~ 42 - 44miliohm. I discharged it at 20amp (the best that CDC could muster), 3mv/c cuttoff and trayed again. Following that, the charging results @ 5amp, 3mv/c were this:

false peak at 1812mAH, batt resistance was 56miliohm & cell temp was 34.2 C.
immediate repeak added on another 2185mAH, batt. resistance increased to 62miliohm & cell temp was a cooking 49.3 C this was from a 1.18+/430+ pack; the other 5 are okay. Any corrective idea?
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Old 08-21-2005, 10:37 PM   #1315
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Could be a dead cell. Like anyother product failures can happen. I would call or email Fusion directly. They will probably want to get the pack back so they can look at it and determine what went wrong.

Like I said...Call or email them. They will let you know what you need to do.
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Old 08-21-2005, 11:09 PM   #1316
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thanks dude...ima wait for their email. sending back may be the last option ima choose since usa and malaysia ain't that close
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Old 08-22-2005, 08:52 AM   #1317
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KoE,
Adrian was right. We would like to discuss your pack issues with you. Anything is possible. We are humans operating machines. I would like to think that we never make mistakes but we do on occasion. Please call the shop at 954-227-1301 and we will see what can be done to correct your problem.

John
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Old 08-22-2005, 09:11 AM   #1318
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Just wanted to say, that my fusion battery (along with a tire change) bumped me from 6th qualifier to 3rd, then in the main, to a 2nd place finish.

Woohoo

The above message is from a retail consumer... I am not sponsored, nor am I even close to being good enough to be a sponsored driver
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Old 08-22-2005, 09:27 AM   #1319
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Old 08-22-2005, 11:15 AM   #1320
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Hi all,

another good week in 12th scale stock on asphalt. TQ, 1st A-main and fastest lap. Also relativel to other classes laptaimes are getting lower. I like to compare my lap times with 19T sedan.We used to be within 0.4 sec. about a month ago we got to the point of being within .1 sec. This week I was .3 sec faster than 19T sedan. Good laps all the through the race, little to no fade even though I can use all but 25 seconds of my run time.

Thanks again John, the batteries feels just as good as when I got them.

Chris
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