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Old 07-24-2005, 02:08 AM   #1246
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TQ and win in 12th stock again, the cells were great as always, this time I ran the T-Fource, I'm starting to like this car, I have found a great set up for it. Oval is a different story, I need a good 19T motor.

Chris
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Old 07-24-2005, 06:52 PM   #1247
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Are the 3700 cells any different in size compared to the 3300 cells?
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:18 PM   #1248
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The GP3700's are larger in diameter than the GP3300's, and also weigh more.
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:25 PM   #1249
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John, i'm going to call tomorrow for some freshies!...., Jim
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:54 PM   #1250
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Yeah Red the 3700's are a little bigger. I had it explained to me that it is a 3300 on steroids.
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:59 PM   #1251
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Are the 3700s ROAR legal yet?
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:07 PM   #1252
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Thanks!

Chuck, I heard that if they are submitted by the deadline then there is a good shot they will be for next year. Just scuttlebutt tho.
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:33 PM   #1253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
TQ and win in 12th stock again, the cells were great as always, this time I ran the T-Fource, I'm starting to like this car, I have found a great set up for it. Oval is a different story, I need a good 19T motor.

Chris
Chris ( grasshopper ) as far as oval its all in the setup. If you like i will let you run my motor next time. Good run last night in 12th. You will get in the groove in oval it just takes time.
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Old 07-24-2005, 11:52 PM   #1254
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gotyour,

yes you are dead on there, I think those greens on the back were holding me up. I'll sort out those pinks for the next race. the motor was better after Mark got his hands on it but I think I'll bee looking to get one of those checkpoint 19T jobs when they come. Apparently it should be soon.

Thanks about the 12th scale, that thing was best handling all year of any car I have drove. Next time, I'll remember my regular glasses too

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Old 07-25-2005, 09:42 AM   #1255
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Ok not a good weekend racing... but the fusion batteries are definitely not the problem.

It was just one of those weekends of freak accidents.

At the last minute i decided to also enter mod-buggy...

1st Stock Qualifer... Finished in 3rd (4th overall) not using my fusion batteries. At the end of the run, while crossing the finish line, I didn't get my buggy slowed down in time, and managed to break the part where the rear ball screw screws into on the B4. I didn't have time to replace the part, since it involves taking most of the rear apart. Instead, I moved my camber links to the other screw hole. Making this fix, forces me to miss qualifier #1 for mod buggy.

2nd Stock Qualifier. I'm using my fusion batteries, in the lead, cut a corner to wide and manage to hit a pipe on the weld seem and break a front a-arm.

2nd Mod Qualifier - I'm running in 3rd, I'm using a 19T motor since I haven't run mod before, I forgot to loc-tite the pinion gear, and it comes loose about half way through the race.

I qualify 7th fastest in stock buggy, so I'm in the 1st spot for the B-Main. My nerves get the best of me, and I finish 3rd, and fail to qualify for the A-Main. (First time for a big race LOL)

Mod-Buggy Final... on the first lap, going up the table top, I hit a car while in the air, sends me cart wheeling through the air, and upon landing, several cart wheels, hitting a pipe well past the where my car would normally be, I break off a ball screw ending my day. Was using fusion batteries for this race... I was in 2nd when the wreck happened. Btw, this wreck was so cool looking, that people were coming up to me for the rest of the day to comment on it. The fact that I only broke a ball screw is truly amazing, and shows how tough the B4 can be. My car was easily 6 feet in the air when I collided with the other one.

Needless to say, the fusion batteries were not an issue, so please fully disregard my previous post. It definitely isn't the batteries.

All in all, for my first large event, I had fun, even though i managed to break 3 parts on my car, and DNF 4 races. Previously to this I had only broke 1 part (a Rear A-Arm) on my buggy.

The track handled very differently then our club races. We laid down about 60-80 gallons of pop syrup on the track, which gave us mad traction. The end of the straight, we had to let off the throttle or you would end up traction rolling and flipping into the spectator fence (non-metal type luckily for those who did it).

I will be deleting my previous post. John, thanking you for sending me a PM. Next time I need batteries, they will be Fusions most likely.

Thanks
Paul
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Old 07-25-2005, 10:40 AM   #1256
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Tubaboy,
You may not be aware of this but, AE makes a new rear plate that is .060 thicker were the ball stud goes in. If you use the new part and titanium ball studs you should not have that problem. Just remember the newer plate means you run 2 less wahers due to the height change!
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Old 07-25-2005, 10:57 AM   #1257
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I'm curious who has tried the 3700's and what their experience has been? I know in my sons B4 they are awesome. Ran them in Mod buggy Friday night at SoCal and needless to say we have to make some changes to keep the frontend on the ground compared to 3300's. I really thought the little bit of extra weight would help since we are adding weight anyway to help the cars to settle down. Due to the punch this just didn't happen. These cells are very impressive! The buggy was a handfull in the straights. Able to pull the frontend at will, on a track with fair traction and a 13x2. He did manage to hang on long enough qualify and finish 2nd, but we have some work to do with the new cells.
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Old 07-25-2005, 01:05 PM   #1258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M LANE
Tubaboy,
You may not be aware of this but, AE makes a new rear plate that is .060 thicker were the ball stud goes in. If you use the new part and titanium ball studs you should not have that problem. Just remember the newer plate means you run 2 less wahers due to the height change!
Do you have a part number? My original one was the FT part #9565.
The hobby shop didn't have the FT version, so I ended up getting the #9564. (haven't installed it yet). But if it's the FT part that is thicker, I'll be sure to order a new one of those when I restock my parts box next week.

I did a search on Stormer and Tower for "Rear Chassis Brace" and those were the only 2 that come up for the B4.

I didn't have any titanium ball studs on hand, but they will be in my next order. When I broke the brace, it also bent the original stainless steel ball stud. So I had to switch to a standard steel ball stud. *sigh*

Thanks for the help.

Paul
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Old 07-25-2005, 03:37 PM   #1259
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Ive been running 3700's in the stock class at Northern Hobbies for about 3 months now. I love the fact that I am able to keep pretty much the same voltage for the whole race. While the people running 3300's start to fade out. Accept for the ones that know what they are doing when it comes to battery care. Im am very pleased with the over all performance of them.
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Old 07-26-2005, 10:36 AM   #1260
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Tubaboy,
The part number is the same. They are sending out new orders with the new part in the bag. The only way to confirm it's the newer design is by looking at it before you buy it. The top pad is .060 thicker than the old one. Have your bad one handy so you can compare. Sounds like you may have to wait for a local store to get one in or find someone by phone that knows the differance. Good luck it shouldn't be to hard to find they have been about for a few weeks.
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